Hi everybody, new to this forum, great info and resource! So would anyone see any problems with using Mobil 1 0w30 in a '00 BMW X5 if I change the oil every 5k or so? I know it's HTHS number isn't that high but I'm not trying to go 10-15k and my wife drives it...easy hwy miles. For some reason I can't easily find any LL-01 around here (Seattle) and I don't really need the long life since I change oil more frequently. Also I have quite a bit of valvetrain or other noise upon cold startup, is the "0W" going to help with that since according to BITOG: "all oil is too thick when cold"? I was running Elf Solaris 5w30 but it's also a hassle to get, I used some Quaker State Synthetic (cheap wal-mart) and it allows this noise. Thanks
non LL-01 in BMW?
- Thread starter faranks
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: faranks
Hi everybody, new to this forum, great info and resource! So would anyone see any problems with using Mobil 1 0w30 in a '00 BMW X5 if I change the oil every 5k or so? I know it's HTHS number isn't that high but I'm not trying to go 10-15k and my wife drives it...easy hwy miles. For some reason I can't easily find any LL-01 around here (Seattle) and I don't really need the long life since I change oil more frequently. Also I have quite a bit of valvetrain or other noise upon cold startup, is the "0W" going to help with that since according to BITOG: "all oil is too thick when cold"? I was running Elf Solaris 5w30 but it's also a hassle to get, I used some Quaker State Synthetic (cheap wal-mart) and it allows this noise. Thanks
Syntec 5w40 and Mobil 1 0w40 are everywhere. That's like saying there are no Euro cars in Seattle.
Hi everybody, new to this forum, great info and resource! So would anyone see any problems with using Mobil 1 0w30 in a '00 BMW X5 if I change the oil every 5k or so? I know it's HTHS number isn't that high but I'm not trying to go 10-15k and my wife drives it...easy hwy miles. For some reason I can't easily find any LL-01 around here (Seattle) and I don't really need the long life since I change oil more frequently. Also I have quite a bit of valvetrain or other noise upon cold startup, is the "0W" going to help with that since according to BITOG: "all oil is too thick when cold"? I was running Elf Solaris 5w30 but it's also a hassle to get, I used some Quaker State Synthetic (cheap wal-mart) and it allows this noise. Thanks
Syntec 5w40 and Mobil 1 0w40 are everywhere. That's like saying there are no Euro cars in Seattle.
At 5K, you shouldnt have a problem.
BMW makes a great engine, but they're not that much different in terms of design!
I would stick to a synthetic of the proper grade, but wouldnt lose sleep over the long life rating at a lower OCI.
My Uncle uses syntec 5w30 in his 328, and a good friend of mine uses Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in his 325. both running like tops! Like Bob mentioned though, Mobil 0w40, even Castrol 5w40 or 0W30 shouldnt be hard to find.
BMW makes a great engine, but they're not that much different in terms of design!
I would stick to a synthetic of the proper grade, but wouldnt lose sleep over the long life rating at a lower OCI.
My Uncle uses syntec 5w30 in his 328, and a good friend of mine uses Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in his 325. both running like tops! Like Bob mentioned though, Mobil 0w40, even Castrol 5w40 or 0W30 shouldnt be hard to find.
Last edited:
Castrol 0w30 (GC) is BMW LL-01 compliant. That should be fairly easy to find.
Ecotourist
Ecotourist
I don't think you would have a problem running M1, QS, Pennzoil or any other major available Synthetic oil in your engine for a relatively short OCI. You might want to consider something with a higher HTHS number like 5w30 or 10w30 instead of 0w30, unless it's a GC.
Too thin. Try Mobil 1 10w30 High Miles. It has the correct HT/HS, good additive levels, and the long-life Euro "A3" spec for thicker synthetic oils. Even the Mobil 1 5w30 HM has very close to the correct HT/HS and the longer-life "A5" spec for thinner Euro synthetic.
The 0w30 offers none of this.
Since cold flow is not a problem for that engine or climate, the 10w30 HM is an easy choice.
http://www.lubrizol.com/EuropeanEngineOils/RelativePerformanceToolIntro.html
The 0w30 offers none of this.
Since cold flow is not a problem for that engine or climate, the 10w30 HM is an easy choice.
http://www.lubrizol.com/EuropeanEngineOils/RelativePerformanceToolIntro.html
BMW brand oil is available at your dealer and costs the same as other synthetic oils.
Alternately, several online retailers sell it, usually at even better prices: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...;catalogid=4462
BMW also lists several widely available approved oils for your engine:
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0w30 (aka German Castrol)
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5w30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5w30
Use an approved oil -- there's no reason not to, regardless of planned OCI.
Alternately, several online retailers sell it, usually at even better prices: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...;catalogid=4462
BMW also lists several widely available approved oils for your engine:
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0w30 (aka German Castrol)
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5w30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5w30
Use an approved oil -- there's no reason not to, regardless of planned OCI.
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Thank you Bob for the warm welcome, I'm 0 for 5 so far at local auto parts stores (including my local Autozone that used to carry the GC).
My question is, should I worry that the HT/HS # is low on this oil if I'm not keeping it very long? is it imperative from day 1?
I feel I need to address all this cold startup noise since "90% of engine wear occurs on startup". My understanding is this site states in ch.1&2 that all oil is too thick at room temp, and 0W thickness the least at 75F.
"Audi Junkie", I think in CH 1, paragraph 4, it implies you are confused by telling me the oil is too thin. All 30 grade oil has a thickness of 10 at 212F .
I can find the Valvoline and Pennzoil oils, but none of them say anything about LL-01 or European... most people are buying that stuff thinking it's the right stuff but it's made in the USA. However, I am not concerned with warranty, so perhaps I should not be concerned with LL oil.
0W-30 has thickness of 12 @ 75F, and 10 @ 212F, it's still too thick at 40-60F
Maybe I am mistaken in thinking that thinner oil will flow to my noisy engine parts faster, thus reducing startup wear.
My question is, should I worry that the HT/HS # is low on this oil if I'm not keeping it very long? is it imperative from day 1?
I feel I need to address all this cold startup noise since "90% of engine wear occurs on startup". My understanding is this site states in ch.1&2 that all oil is too thick at room temp, and 0W thickness the least at 75F.
"Audi Junkie", I think in CH 1, paragraph 4, it implies you are confused by telling me the oil is too thin. All 30 grade oil has a thickness of 10 at 212F .
I can find the Valvoline and Pennzoil oils, but none of them say anything about LL-01 or European... most people are buying that stuff thinking it's the right stuff but it's made in the USA. However, I am not concerned with warranty, so perhaps I should not be concerned with LL oil.
0W-30 has thickness of 12 @ 75F, and 10 @ 212F, it's still too thick at 40-60F
Maybe I am mistaken in thinking that thinner oil will flow to my noisy engine parts faster, thus reducing startup wear.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
Quote:
I feel I need to address all this cold startup noise since "90% of engine wear occurs on startup".
The 90% of wear that occurs at start up is a marketing exploitation of SAE's nomenclature of the first 20 minutes of driving. It's the warm up phase to 'steady state". Essentially it's when the engine is thermally saturated. The wear is totally unavoidable and is made up of a mix of ill fitment of parts, additives that don't like to work when cold, and corrosive components of combustion byproducts coupled with inherent moisture contained in the combustion process. You could eliminate some of it by trumping the fuel enrichment process with a block warmer. Even if doubled or halved, that 90% of that wear, in most climates, with contemporary fuel management systems, doesn't enter the realm of "significant" in engine life.
I feel I need to address all this cold startup noise since "90% of engine wear occurs on startup".
The 90% of wear that occurs at start up is a marketing exploitation of SAE's nomenclature of the first 20 minutes of driving. It's the warm up phase to 'steady state". Essentially it's when the engine is thermally saturated. The wear is totally unavoidable and is made up of a mix of ill fitment of parts, additives that don't like to work when cold, and corrosive components of combustion byproducts coupled with inherent moisture contained in the combustion process. You could eliminate some of it by trumping the fuel enrichment process with a block warmer. Even if doubled or halved, that 90% of that wear, in most climates, with contemporary fuel management systems, doesn't enter the realm of "significant" in engine life.
Amsoil HDD 5w30.
Amsoil HDD 5w30 LINK
Don't let the diesel part scare you. It's a mixed fleet oil, which means it's fine for gasoline engines as well.
I have never actually seen GC on the eastside or north of Seattle.
Amsoil HDD 5w30 LINK
Don't let the diesel part scare you. It's a mixed fleet oil, which means it's fine for gasoline engines as well.
I have never actually seen GC on the eastside or north of Seattle.
HT/HS isn't about long drain intervals, it's a property the engine requires of the oil to operate properly.
Although I've read posts in BMW forums from lots of people incorrectly using Mobil 1 5W30 and their engines haven't exploded, ACEA A3 is a minimum spec that I would run regardless of what you plan for a drain interval.
I see you're in Seattle, this is neither a warm nor cold climate. If you're having trouble finding an oil, go grab a 5W40 HDEO like Rotella T6 and be done with it, IMO. You shouldn't have any problem finding that.
Although I've read posts in BMW forums from lots of people incorrectly using Mobil 1 5W30 and their engines haven't exploded, ACEA A3 is a minimum spec that I would run regardless of what you plan for a drain interval.
I see you're in Seattle, this is neither a warm nor cold climate. If you're having trouble finding an oil, go grab a 5W40 HDEO like Rotella T6 and be done with it, IMO. You shouldn't have any problem finding that.
Originally Posted By: fokvoort
BMW brand oil is available at your dealer and costs the same as other synthetic oils.
Alternately, several online retailers sell it, usually at even better prices: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...;catalogid=4462
BMW also lists several widely available approved oils for your engine:
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0w30 (aka German Castrol)
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5w30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5w30
Use an approved oil -- there's no reason not to, regardless of planned OCI.
I'm going to add BMW Synthetic oil @ ~$5/quart available at the dealerships. There are a ton of LL-01 oils available so there's no reason to guess on a non-approved oil.
BMW brand oil is available at your dealer and costs the same as other synthetic oils.
Alternately, several online retailers sell it, usually at even better prices: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...;catalogid=4462
BMW also lists several widely available approved oils for your engine:
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0w30 (aka German Castrol)
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5w30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5w30
Use an approved oil -- there's no reason not to, regardless of planned OCI.
I'm going to add BMW Synthetic oil @ ~$5/quart available at the dealerships. There are a ton of LL-01 oils available so there's no reason to guess on a non-approved oil.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Wrong, so...
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Wrong, so...
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx
Originally Posted By: BMWTurboDzl
There are a ton of LL-01 oils available so there's no reason to guess on a non-approved oil.
Bingo.
There are a ton of LL-01 oils available so there's no reason to guess on a non-approved oil.
Bingo.
thanks everyone for the info and your opinions. I'll let you know if my cold startup noise is reduced by a less thick at room temp oil, or if it blows up 
FYI: Valvoline Synpower 5w30 (ILSAC GF-4) does not meet BMW LL-01, Valvoline Synpower 5w30 MST (European non-ILSAC formula) does. BMW should be more specific
FYI: Valvoline Synpower 5w30 (ILSAC GF-4) does not meet BMW LL-01, Valvoline Synpower 5w30 MST (European non-ILSAC formula) does. BMW should be more specific
Originally Posted By: faranks
FYI: Valvoline Synpower 5w30 (ILSAC GF-4) does not meet BMW LL-01, Valvoline Synpower 5w30 MST (European non-ILSAC formula) does. BMW should be more specific
Indeed, BMW should be more specific. To that end, I've emailed them.
FYI: Valvoline Synpower 5w30 (ILSAC GF-4) does not meet BMW LL-01, Valvoline Synpower 5w30 MST (European non-ILSAC formula) does. BMW should be more specific
Indeed, BMW should be more specific. To that end, I've emailed them.
Originally Posted By: fokvoort
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Wrong, so...
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx
It's nice to be so strongly contradicted when I'm right.
As-if an OEM never made an error...
I guess it's a lot to expect a customer/poster to know that the oem is incorrect, but I'd expect a new member here to be a bit more polite and simply ask a sr member to clarify something for them. Maybe my expectations are too high.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Wrong, so...
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx
It's nice to be so strongly contradicted when I'm right.
As-if an OEM never made an error...
I guess it's a lot to expect a customer/poster to know that the oem is incorrect, but I'd expect a new member here to be a bit more polite and simply ask a sr member to clarify something for them. Maybe my expectations are too high.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Originally Posted By: fokvoort
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Wrong, so...
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx
It's nice to be so strongly contradicted when I'm right.
As-if an OEM never made an error...
I guess it's a lot to expect a customer/poster to know that the oem is incorrect, but I'd expect a new member here to be a bit more polite and simply ask a sr member to clarify something for them. Maybe my expectations are too high.
Perfectly fair to take an OEM claim over that of a poster's, regardless of their post count.
And you weren't right; SynPower 5w30 is approved, in the MST variant. If you knew that, why not post it?
I'll agree, it's sometimes asking a bit extra for a consumer to know when an OEM dropped the ball.
It's certainly not asking much to expect politeness between all members of a forum, which is why I was surprised when you closed your post with "so...", which written or spoken is rude when left to hang at the end of a curt, not-elborated-upon incorrect correction.
I'd expect a veteran member here to be a bit more polite and simply clarify something for a new member. Maybe my expectations are too high.
Originally Posted By: fokvoort
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Well, SynPower 5w30 isn't approved, so...
Wrong, so...
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx
It's nice to be so strongly contradicted when I'm right.
As-if an OEM never made an error...
I guess it's a lot to expect a customer/poster to know that the oem is incorrect, but I'd expect a new member here to be a bit more polite and simply ask a sr member to clarify something for them. Maybe my expectations are too high.
Perfectly fair to take an OEM claim over that of a poster's, regardless of their post count.
And you weren't right; SynPower 5w30 is approved, in the MST variant. If you knew that, why not post it?
I'll agree, it's sometimes asking a bit extra for a consumer to know when an OEM dropped the ball.
It's certainly not asking much to expect politeness between all members of a forum, which is why I was surprised when you closed your post with "so...", which written or spoken is rude when left to hang at the end of a curt, not-elborated-upon incorrect correction.
I'd expect a veteran member here to be a bit more polite and simply clarify something for a new member. Maybe my expectations are too high.
When authoritatively declaring to use only an "approved oil", it's best to actually be correct with the info you are trying to pass along to other members. I'm not sure how much effort I'm supposed to put into that, other than to make the correction.
There is a search function available for any other grey areas you may encounter.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=search
or like I said, you could have just asked.
For the record, I'm the person who originally caught the error, and confirmed it with a helpful Valvoline Tech. So, yeah, old news and not too exciting for me to make a long post about. Sorry about that.
There is a search function available for any other grey areas you may encounter.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=search
or like I said, you could have just asked.
For the record, I'm the person who originally caught the error, and confirmed it with a helpful Valvoline Tech. So, yeah, old news and not too exciting for me to make a long post about. Sorry about that.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked