non detergent motor oil

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I was at TSC and they have QTs and gallons of non detergent 30W. I am curious what its used for. I know its for squirt oil cans to oil stuff, and for the tilt/trim on some Mercruisers. But who needs gallons? There must be a use I am not aware of. TSC also has the same brand of floor jack I am looking at that Sams has (different thread) and Sams is much less.
 
Non-detergent SAE 30 is for air compressors, pressure washers and other non-combustion devices. It actually lubricates better than detergent oil because there's more base stock which is the part of the oil that actually lubricates, FWIW.
 
Back in the day, I knew some people who used ND 30 in Type 1 or II VWs, which had no oil filters.
They would change this oil every thousand miles, which was not so much different from adding makeup oil, since these engines held very little oil.
These folks reported good engine life and clean internals on teardown, and if you had an old VW for more than 100K, you were going to tear it down, sell it, or junk it.
 
I hear what you are saying, but there must be another answer. I have a 5HP two stage 60 gallon compressor and it might take 2 QTs, so few would buy it by the gallon. I doubt too many farmers even have an air compressor that big. It was right with their normal motor oil and hydraulic fluid. I would guess they have air compressor oil by their air compressors.

And all their batteries are Exide.

Maybe other machinery on a farm.

Any farmers on BITOG??
 
Way back when I were a young-un, we used straight 30-wt non-detergent oil in the gearbox of well pumps (electric windmill-replacement reciprocating pump jacks) and the gearboxes on windmills too. IIRC, the pumpjacks took about a gallon and a half, the windmills about 2 quarts. The electric pumpjacks had a nasty habit of squirting water into their own oil when the packing gland on the wellhead leaked too much, so you changed it a few times a year (and that packing gland would burn itself up if you didn't let it leak just a little to cool it...) Plus we used it for compressors, electric motors, barn fan bearing journals, the concrete mixer gearbox, chain saw bar oil, other small machines, etc... any application where you don't need hypoid lube and you do NOT want any water to emulsify into the oil (as someone else said, "non combustion" applications). Seems like there weren't many big consumers other than that dang pump but it still got used a LOT from day to day around the place. We never bought it in 5-gallon buckets because we were a tiny little 90-acre plot, but I bet a big thousands-of-acres farm or ranch could burn through a quite a few gallons a year.
 
a few ppl told me I should be using ND oil in my kids mini-bike that is "splash lubricated".
There reason for this was that it would prevent the oil from foaming or bubbleing up.

I use it for my compresor as well.
 
Originally Posted By: wsar10
a few ppl told me I should be using ND oil in my kids mini-bike that is "splash lubricated".
There reason for this was that it would prevent the oil from foaming or bubbleing up.

I use it for my compresor as well.


No modern, small, air cooled engine should be run on non-detergent oil...
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
But who needs gallons?


A lot of antique tractor collectors use non-detergent motor oil in their engines. I don't use it, but when I take mine to shows I always come across a few who swear that anything but a non-detergent motor oil will ruin an older engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
It works well as a substitute for bar and chain oil.


You are not correct. Bar & chain oil has a sticky component in it that causes the oil to stick to the chain. Its also cheaper than regular oil I believe.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: Donald
But who needs gallons?


A lot of antique tractor collectors use non-detergent motor oil in their engines. I don't use it, but when I take mine to shows I always come across a few who swear that anything but a non-detergent motor oil will ruin an older engine.


What they are saying may be true. I bought a used 65 Mustang in maybe 1970. Unknown to me, the 289 had been run on non detergent oil (I assume). I changed the oil and added 5 QTs of QS from my Dad's stash and sheared off the shaft that turns the oil pump. Apparently there was so much sludge in the engine and in the oil pump itself, that when I added detergent oil, it loosened up enough chunks to jamb the oil pump, and caused the shaft (pencil sized) to shear. Had I know I could have added the detergent oil slowly, as in 1 QT first change, 2 QTs second change, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: wsar10
a few ppl told me I should be using ND oil in my kids mini-bike that is "splash lubricated".
There reason for this was that it would prevent the oil from foaming or bubbleing up.

I use it for my compresor as well.


No modern, small, air cooled engine should be run on non-detergent oil...


I ended up putting 10-30 max-life in it, as thats what I had laying around
 
The detergent in engine oils does not discriminate between sludge and ZDDP.
It want to uncoat everything.
This is why high end race oils have low detergency.
Better use of the additives.
With splash lubed parts in a lawnmower, we need every swinging Richard we can .
 
Within the last several years I have purchased a log splitter, a riding lawn mower, a chipper/shredder and most recently a small 20" push mower. They all came with Detergent 30w. Interestingly, the oil in the last bottle looked and smelled like it could have been made by Rotella.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: Donald
But who needs gallons?


A lot of antique tractor collectors use non-detergent motor oil in their engines. I don't use it, but when I take mine to shows I always come across a few who swear that anything but a non-detergent motor oil will ruin an older engine.


There may be some truth to that- certainly more than saying its good for splash-lubricated engines. Some antique engines use very different bearing metallurgy (high silver content, or very soft, poured-in-place babbit alloys). Some modern detergents and anti-wear additives might attack those, especially silver.
 
Just put fresh Accell Non Detergent 30W in the power wash pump at work, along with Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 for the 13.5hp Honda motor for the winter!
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
It works well as a substitute for bar and chain oil.


You are not correct. Bar & chain oil has a sticky component in it that causes the oil to stick to the chain. Its also cheaper than regular oil I believe.


People use motor oil to lube motorcycle chains, and trust me, a thick straight 40 worked just fine in a pinch on my saw.
 
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