No start, stuck key, no power

Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
16,185
Location
Indiana
Merry Christmas everyone.

I tried starting the Blazer this morning. Everything was normal until I attempted to start it and then nothing. (Normal meaning ding when key was in the ignition and dash lights) Tried again, except this time the key was stuck and I had no power to anything after the fact. Headlights, hatch etc. Transferring my tools and cold weather gear to my Jeep from the cargo area through the back seat was a blast! I hoped someone would steal the truck since the key was in the ignition all day, but no such luck.

I messed with it this afternoon and removed the key with the release button on the bottom of the column. Started right up on the first try. What gives?
 
Merry Christmas everyone.

I tried starting the Blazer this morning. Everything was normal until I attempted to start it and then nothing. (Normal meaning ding when key was in the ignition and dash lights) Tried again, except this time the key was stuck and I had no power to anything after the fact. Headlights, hatch etc. Transferring my tools and cold weather gear to my Jeep from the cargo area through the back seat was a blast! I hoped someone would steal the truck since the key was in the ignition all day, but no such luck.

I messed with it this afternoon and removed the key with the release button on the bottom of the column. Started right up on the first try. What gives?
Lots of miles on the vehicle?
This might be your fair warning that the ignition switch or lock cylinder are failing.
I had similar symptoms on my 1995 Riviera and it was a bad ignition switch.
 
My mom's 1999 Buick would do the same thing. It was as if the battery connected then lost connection and re-connected again. After doing this for a while replaced the battery and problem solved.
Or maybe when the new battery was installed, the terminals were tightened correctly. Those side post batteries tend to do that but top post isn't immune.
 
Why would it be a battery issue if,
The undervoltage does weird things to the computer. The electric system was inert, as if there was no battery. I disconnected the negative terminal, then reconnected it. I was able to then remove the key. The car did start afterwards but I needed a battery within days. My alternator and starter were fine.
 
If you couldn’t pull the key, it thought you were in gear, or at least not in park. That key removal / start interlock mechanism would be the clue I would start from. … from experience.
 
My 1997 Blazer did that and it was the ignition switch itself. Replaced with an Autozone and it failed a year later. Replaced with GM one and it is still working today (about 8 years).
The lock itself doesn't change, so the key doesn't change. Just the rotary switch part goes bad.
 
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