No EGR/DPF Diesel better off with A3/B4 oil vs HDEO ? Manual specs both....

BDK

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(Think I posted this in the wrong forum before and was deleted moved, please feel free to delete that thread if not done already)


So I find myself in the possession of a 2013 ZD30 Common Rail Diesel Nissan Patrol no DPF and EGR has been deleted....

I'm in Australia and there seems to be a lot of issues here with these engines (mostly the previous gen Direct Injection no so much with the Common Rail)....but from doing a bit of research there seems to be issues with cooling piston no 4 and high EGTs (Exhaust Gas Temperatures) that blow these engines....a lot of people here use HDEO oil for diesels mostly 15w40 mineral or semi-synth....I wonder if that has something to do with it......on a lot of the forums here the most recommended oil is 15w40 15w50 for diesel engines (all these oils here are mineral or semi)..

Also moving form the UK I find that mineral oil and semi syn. is mostly what you find in the shops here and full syn is quite hard to find / limited ....where in the UK pretty much all oils were full syn...

And what made me post this is that I've read here somewhere that if you have a diesel without DPF/EGR you are actually better off using A3/B4 oil instead of diesel specific... I've attached below pictures of the manual (this is from 2013 so I'm assuming a lot has changes since then regarding engine oil...)

An interesting footnote in the manual is **For Pickup models in South Africa only API grade CF-4 or JASO DH-1 grade oil is recommended**

Screenshot 2025-07-27 at 9.28.10 am.webp
Screenshot 2025-07-27 at 9.27.48 am.webp



And this is what I got to go in it as it's been run on mineral 15w40 for the last couple of years (info from the previous owner)...

Screenshot 2025-07-27 at 9.48.36 am.webp
 
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Get whatever Repco or Kmart has on sale :)

We used to have Kmart in the US, but they all closed down, but apparently Australia still has them. Australia's Kmart and Target stores have no relationship with the US/rest of the world stores :sneaky:
 


Well this answered some questions I had actually..
 
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If Diesel specific oil increases wear, then Diesel engines would wear out just from the oil alone.
Since Diesel engines last forever, sometimes decades running 24/7, I’m not buying it.
I have a deleted LML. The oil stays clean looking until the OLM runs out.
My best UOA on that engine showed 8ppm Fe after 15,000 kms. So much for Diesel oil causing wear.
Typically A3/B4 oils cost more than CK-4s, so use whatever is the cheapest.
 
5w-40 HDEO or a 5w-40 ACEA A3/B4 seems to be good options for you? Could just settle on a CK-4 10w-30. Let us know what you decide.
 
As for the original question, I highly doubt the issue with this engine have much to do with oil selection.

Was the computer flashed/updated when the EGR was deleted? I don't know about this specific model or engine but have heard of issues with EGR deletes when this wasn't done.
 
I'm thinking castrol edge 10w30 or 5w40 whats a better choice? both A4 B4? Theres also magnatec but only the 5w40 is full syn the 10w40 is semi-syn... the edge are both full-syn

**the 10w30 edge is A5/B5 so that's out.... I'm actually wondering if a 5w40 full syn is actually better and more robust than a mineral HDEO 15w40....
 
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I’ve always gotten the impression in non U.S. countries, there was a decent overlap between HDEO’s and A3/ B4 oils. Here, the latter is full synthetic and mostly in the 0w40 or 5w40 form and marketed for European vehicles whereas elsewhere one could easily find a semi synthetic 15w40 marketed as a A3/B4 and HDEO. Most HDEO’s here used to be rated for both gas and heavy duty diesel engines and now just diesel engine use. A3/B4’s are still plentiful and also rated for both gas and light duty diesels. (I am still not sure what defines a heavy duty diesel engine is vs a light duty diesel though as I can make the case a little diesel is working much harder than a big diesel engine.

I don’t think it boils down to a spec issue, but a mineral vs synthetic issue since the engine seems hard on oil. I would think a full synthetic in either form would be what you’d want and stay away from extended oil change intervals. A used oil analysis would help you figure out what oil does best for your needs and how long to run it in your engine.
 
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