Nissan Value Advantage Axle - or rebuild OEM?

Joined
Oct 21, 2015
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366
Location
Colorado
Hi all,
The outer CV boot on the passenger side axle of my 5 speed 95 maxima is torn wide open. The car has not been driven much as all since this happened. I'm looking for input/advice on whether to explore rebuilding this axle, or going with the Nissan Value advantage axle as described below. The car has 75k original, gentle miles and I'm the original owner.

1) The OEM axle is no longer available and the only Nissan axle that is available is the Value Advantage one that is very likely to be made in China (according to what I have heard, read, and even saw on a box of one in the Parts counter display). I have always understood that the Value Advantage line is Nissan's more economical, line of parts. I have never used any of them because honestly, I have never had any major issues like this. I can only say that the VA air filter appeared much inferior to the OEM when I bought one. I'm not crazy about a made in China axle but, it is a Nissan part, so I guess that counts for something and presumably should be better than one from a standard parts place. I want to believe my OEM axle is better quality but one service manager said that even my OEM one was probably built in China in the first place too. I don't know.

2) The dealers are willing to rebuild the axle but to them, that means wiping off as much grease as they can and repacking with new grease and putting on new boots. I don't think that is a good route. There could be grit/sand in the grease that unless the entire assembly is degreased, would still be in there.

3) My other option is to see if the dealer is willing to remove the axle, have it sent to a reputable axle rebuilder here in Colorado for proper rebuilding, and therefore retain the original axle. However, it does have about 75k original miles on it, likely exposed to abrasive grit etc from the boot being torn, etc. I'm not sure the dealer will want to tie up a lift for probably 2 days. Then I run the risk that if the axle is cost prohibitive to rebuild, I will be looking at a diagnosis fee from the axle shop for the time to pick up and return, and effort to evaluate. Plus, I'm assuming in this scenario the rebuilt axle will be better than the VA axle. Hence this post!

Note, dealers I spoke with, except one, strongly advise the VA axle. They say it will have a 12 month/12k mile warranty. If I go with the VA axle, the axle shop advised me to at least keep the OEM axle for possible future use but I"m not crazy about storing a rather large car part in my already packed garage.
 
Go with what they have in stock and keep the OEM just in case.

I know Nissan dealers seem to push value advantage brake parts. I dunno about the CV shafts.
 
Get the Nissan Value Advantage. Even though it's not quite as good as OE, it is still validated and backed by Nissan.

The NVA part is what can be called OE-second. Maybe a little cheaper than what came on the car in 1995, but still backed by the mfr, and they can often be an excellent value proposition.
 
Get the Nissan Value Advantage. Even though it's not quite as good as OE, it is still validated and backed by Nissan.

The NVA part is what can be called OE-second. Maybe a little cheaper than what came on the car in 1995, but still backed by the mfr, and they can often be an excellent value proposition.

Yep. I would think the same would go for companies like GM as well- as they have different AC Delco lines. As long as the dealer backs it, Can;t see why not…..
 
I think you are over thinking a simple CV boot replacement. Just replace the boot and clean off the original grease and fill with new. This is a normal repair and if it’s not been ran dry with no grease then it’s a lot cheaper that a full shaft.
 
I think you are over thinking a simple CV boot replacement. Just replace the boot and clean off the original grease and fill with new. This is a normal repair and if it’s not been ran dry with no grease then it’s a lot cheaper that a full shaft.
Hi; I want this done right so evaluation of the options is in order. If you saw the condition of the car, you sould see why. To replace the boot, are you suggesting one of those split boots? I am unable to do this job myself so need a shop to do any repair on this but a split boot would be doable. However, even with a split boot, or putting off the entire assembly, how can you ensure all the grease is removed including any grit without serious solvents or a parts washing machine?
 
You can get the Chinese new ones from third party suppliers and are likely identical to the one the dealer is selling.

R&R an axle is not a lot of labor, so a very cheap part even if it might need to be replaced again during the remaining life of the car is not necessarily a bad deal.
 
Hi; I want this done right so evaluation of the options is in order. If you saw the condition of the car, you sould see why. To replace the boot, are you suggesting one of those split boots? I am unable to do this job myself so need a shop to do any repair on this but a split boot would be doable. However, even with a split boot, or putting off the entire assembly, how can you ensure all the grease is removed including any grit without serious solvents or a parts washing machine?
I had this done on my Mercedes. As others said, you're over thinking it. Basically got most of the grease out, just spray it with brake cleaner and most of the old grease is gone. Then the new boot kit comes with a new packet of grease and just packed the new one with grease. I do not suggest the split boot. You basically don't say what the cost of the boot is vs the cost of a new axle. For me, the factory boot kit was about $40 plus labor is about the same whether you replace the axle or just do the boot, has to come out in order to replace the boot. Probably a little bit more labor to replace the boot, but it didn't take that much longer. The new axle was 1k from MB and even aftermarket was over $300. I did get a new one originally from Rockauto that was about $100 but as others mentioned, it caused a vibration so that's why I kept the old axle and just got a boot kit. Rebuilt the old axle and swap it again afterwards. Basically paid twice to swap axles. You could try the new axle, at least it's considered a factory part and shouldn't have a vibration. Keep the old axle because if you get a vibration, you will know right away. I had an indy mechanic do it so of course no warranty on labor but if you're having a dealer do it or an indy that offers a warranty see if they will swap again for free if it causes a vibration. I don't think anyone really likes the split boot kits, the boot tends to split...
 
I have seen a few installed into Rogues, they had the same issues as parts store axles -- vibration. They appear to use the same neoprene boots, missing dampeners, etc.

Neoprene? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO :poop::poop::poop:

That really is a shame. I had though the NVA would be something like Toyota's OE Second Line, but I guess not :cry:
 
Hi; I want this done right so evaluation of the options is in order. If you saw the condition of the car, you sould see why. To replace the boot, are you suggesting one of those split boots? I am unable to do this job myself so need a shop to do any repair on this but a split boot would be doable. However, even with a split boot, or putting off the entire assembly, how can you ensure all the grease is removed including any grit without serious solvents or a parts washing machine?
Things don’t normally get inside cv boots if they have a hole/ split everything inside gets thrown out so if you remove the drive shaft, remove the cv joint, discard damaged boot, clean shaft and wipe old grease out of cv joint. I wouldn’t be concerned about any grease left in the joint but if you are then just clean it all out with solvent then let it dry. Once dried you could fill it will some heavy weight oil then poor it back out to make sure all the solvent is removed. Put new boot onto shaft fill cv joint with correct grease and fit to shaft, fit small clip to boot and fill boot with grease, fit big clip. Make sure correct clips are used and they are tight. This is the most important part you don’t want water getting inside the boot it will cause more damage than grit ever would.
 
You can get the Chinese new ones from third party suppliers and are likely identical to the one the dealer is selling.

R&R an axle is not a lot of labor, so a very cheap part even if it might need to be replaced again during the remaining life of the car is not necessarily a bad deal.
Yep - case in point, I installed a white-box Chinese Cardone axle once. It was the same exact thing as the parts store new axles.

I have a feeling NVA axles are the same as GSP/Trakmotive or Duralast.
 
I would rebuild your current axle. I had my axles rebuilt preventatively on my 2006 Jetta at 150,000 mi. It now has 320,000 mi on the original axles.
 
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