Nissan Titan Rear Diff

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I just changed my front and rear diff fluid out to Amsoil Series 2000 and noticed that the rear diff fluid was a nasty black clumpy mess. The front was a nice gold/honey color.

The truck currently has a little over 7,500 miles with no towing to date and about 80% of the miles
being highway.

Should the rear diff fluid have looked that bad with so few miles on it??

Regards,
Matt
 
Oil probably shouldn't be that bad. But anyway that's a good thing you changed it.
cheers.gif


Series 2000 is a great gear oil and should hold up very well. Just to be on the safe side I would drain it after running 30k miles on it. If it looks good - replace it with the same stuff and go a longer drain (maybe 45-60k miles). If it looks really bad and you notice a significant performance improvement after drain - go a shorter drain and/or try different oil.

As for the front differential - oil probably doesn't have to be changed anymore unless you use front axle a lot and/or tow.

Regards,
 
I might be inclined to talk to a tech at a dealership. There may have been an additive in the rear diff from the factory that you're not aware of, because as suggested the lubricant shouldn't be in that bad a shape with so few miles logged.
 
I wonder if the rear axle is overloaded. The Dana 44 rear used in the Titan is fairly small for a truck of its size and weight. Until the Titan came out, I haven't seen a Dana 44 used on a vehicle weighing more than 3500 lbs, which is 2000 lbs less than the Titan.
 
Msprouls,
Do you have a LSD in the rear diff?
I change fluids in my Tundra every year and the rear is dark and clumpy.The front is very clean.
I attributed this to clutch material and constant use unlike the front diff.
Unless the Titan has full time 4x4.
How's the mpg's
I'm dreaming of a four door truck!
RichR
 
LSD, not sure they call it active brake LSD. Sounds to me like an open diff that they brake the spinning wheel.

Anyway I added more fluid, made the fluid level with the fill hole.

Matt
 
quote:

Originally posted by ant:
I haven't seen a Dana 44 used on a vehicle weighing more than 3500 lbs, which is 2000 lbs less than the Titan.

My '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.2L has a base curb weight of 3900 pounds for a uni-body grocery getter. Not to mention it has an aluminum center section with steel tubes. I think a D44 would be alright if it had big enough axle shafts. Look at the lovely Chevy 10-Bolts used in Suburbans.
 
Most diffy's come with factory fluids that are synthetic and loaded with AW and FW adds which are very dark.

So it is not unusual to see this black, almost gooey (scientific term) fluid.

This is one reason I recommend changing the fluid at 5,000 to 7,500 miles.

Schaeffer's #267 is an excellent fluid for rear diffys.
 
I agree with Mola on this one. He beat me to it. I would also add that unless you are useing 4WD alot the rear fluid is always going to take a lot more abuse. THe use of friction modifiers for LSD and the break in all add to the "Black GOO"!

Depending on how much lapping Nissan specifies for their gear sets this could also be breakin wear. Lapping the Ring and Pinion is expensive and produces a better wearing part. Every company has different spec.s for this!

I would sample your new fluid with a syring in about 10,000 miles. If it is not a nice honey color then you might have some problems!

Driveing too fast and for too long of a time period on a new rear end is the leading silent killer of ring and pinions. It takes a minium of 500 miles of varying speeds and able cooling time to properly break in a ring and pinion set. The first 500 miles on a new rear end you should never drive longer then 45 minutes with out stopping to let the gear cool down.

When speed limits were 55MPH this was less of an issue. I often see vechiles with less then 1000 miles on them with blistered paint on their rear diff. covers!
 
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