Newbie Needs Help

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I have a 2004 Subaru Forester (not turbo)with 220,000. The old gal is starting to burn a little oil (about a quart every three thousand miles). I have been using synthetic 5W-30 for years but I'm wondering if I should change the oil weight. There is so much info on these boards that I'm totally confused.

I'm not specifically requesting a brand recommendation (though that would be welcome)but I would love any advice you folks may have.

I'm trying to just get the car to 300,000 or my daughters wedding, whichever comes first.

Thanks!
 
I've probably seen your Foz around.

A quart every 3K isn't terrible usage. Have you checked your PCV? My Outback (same engine as you) jumped in consumption when the PCV clogged up.

I wouldn't change the weight, although these EJ engines run fine on most any 30 or 40 weight oils. If the PCV doesn't fix things, and it isn't obviously leaking from the valve cover gasket, head gasket, or rear separator plate...I'd try Quaker State Defy in 5w30. It's a high mileage syn blend, and my Subaru at least seems to like QS and Pennzoil (or at least it runs quieter on them).
 
...which is good advice, provided it's not taken as prohibiting 5w-40 in the summer.
wink.gif
I definitely try to avoid synthetics whenever possible in a vehicle that's consuming a bunch of oil.
 
Thats very little consumption for that many miles. Nothing to get worried about really. Just switch to the High Milage version of whatever your currently using and see if it helps. Going up to a 40 grade probably wont help much, i dont think, but hey ya never know.
 
A 220K Subaru 2.5 burning a quart every 3K?
I'd say that the engine is doing pretty well.
You don't say what oil you've been using, but if you want to stay with a syn, you could try either M1 HM or Maxlife full syn, if you can find it.
I don't think that you have much to worry about, though, in that it isn't unusual for a Subaru to use a little oil and a qt every 3K is nothing.
You might need to replace the PCV valve and check the tubing for clogs and it might be worth doing this if it's never been done on this engine.
Cheap enough to give it a shot.
 
I would NOT run thicker (higher weight) oil...engines run better at spec'd oil...try one of the HM varieties...but truth be told, this is much to do bout nuttin'
 
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Wow, thanks for the quick advice!

Looks like a check of the PVC is in order along with some hm oil.

Again, thanks.
 
If PCV valve has not been serviced/replaced for all these years, then you MUST have it replaced at once, before you even tackle the rest of the oil consumption issue (assuming burning).

There's never such a thing called "inspect" PCV valve (for those engines that have long been neglected in PCV valve servicing/replacement), for you either replace it, or you don't (for latter you pay for that down the road in terms of oil consumption, etc.)

Q.
 
Personnally I would not sweat that small amount of burn or leakage. Do like the other people said and change the PCV valve. Keep using the same oil you have been as in my opinion it is doing a fine job with that motor. Or go to the HM version if you desire.
 
Swap the PCV valve out and do an oil change with the same stuff you use now. If still consuming then I would go to an HM. What kind of oil are you using now? Just go with the HM version of what you are using now.

And..go with an OEM PCV valve.
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
...which is good advice, provided it's not taken as prohibiting 5w-40 in the summer.
wink.gif
I definitely try to avoid synthetics whenever possible in a vehicle that's consuming a bunch of oil.


Good point T6 5W-40 will work fine in the winter and also the summer, where T5 15W-40 will be too thick in the winter. T5 is lower cost so if you know that the oil will be drained before winter you can save a few bucks using the T5 15W-40 for the summer.
 
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