New vehicle plan....thoughts?

[casper]

The economy has taken its toll on my wheels once more. Sold my 05 GTO just a few months ago and now my 05 4runner also found a new home (both cars are purchased by friends).

New vehicle is a 98 Ford Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L SOHC 121,600 miles.

Purchased from a professed "non-car guy" and it shows in the preventative maintenance. Already have a list of items from a local independent mechanic that looked it over. All the fluids need to be replaced sans coolant as it had a new thermostat installed just 2 weeks ago.

-F+R pads need to be replaced, rear rotors need to be replaced as well (total cost 220-250).

Other items to be tackled by me:

-Oil pan has small seep and the pan/gasket will be replaced

-transmission pan has small seep and the pan/gasket/filter will all be replaced. Fresh fluid will be installed at that time.

Already spent a good part of today at the local stores picking up goodies.

6qts Pennzoil 5w30 conventional
2 bottles Auto RX- one for engine, other for diff and transmission
Purolator Pure One filters
Fuel Filter
PCV Valve
Valvoline High Mileage PS fluid
Prestone Synthetic DOT4
ST 80W90 for first change(to include AutoRX)then swap M1 75W90.
B12 Fuel Additive

Still need to get oil pan gasket and transmission gasket.

Going to drain the installed oil and do a Blackstone UOA on that while I run the Cleaning Phase of the AutoRX and the Pennzoil conventional. Then Ill have a decision on what to do....go with a high mileage blend or go with something like a PP, M1 or Pennzoil Ultra.

Ill be switching it over to shell or chevron gasoline.

Tires are newer (less than 10,000 miles) but are well off brand and will probably be replaced soon as I just do not trust them especially given this models history with tires.

Ill have to refresh the headlights as they have yellowed over time. Bulbs will be replaced with something like Sylvania Silverstars or equiv.

Hood Struts, rear window struts and wipers will all be replaced as well.

Ill have to watch out for timing chain issues as the engine is notorious for it and there is zero paperwork to suggest that anything has been changed.

small issues with a major that has yet to rear its ugly head. Not a bad find for $3K. All in all, after all the fluids and basic stuff is done, it should run well for the next few years for a total cost of $3500. Edmunds lists it for 2900 and KBB has it for 4100. So all in all it will work for everything I need...larger for 2 dogs and aftermarket DVD system for the kid.

Anyone have thoughts? Anyone with experience with the 4.slow? any Gen II Explorer people?

 

[chet2]

you are very thorough but i would change that timing belt cuz it sounds like previous guy didnt do much to rig... i wonder if he was somewhat regular on OCs and changed AF at least once, did you ask him?...hopefully ATF was changed once too but i doubt it but maybe he didnt beat on it...your buddies are lucky buying a car off you...go with the pennzoil ultra, i want to see how people like it

 

[casper]

Oil changes were between 3-5K with the previous owner...owner before that- ?????

Ive asked but they have only had the car since 85,000 miles...and in that time they have not changed the chain or changed out the fluid that he knows of. Im still going through paperwork from some of the old work that had been documented.

 

[AdRock]

Put 75-140 in the rear diff instead of the 75-90. It will be much quieter. Don't forget the LS additive either since it's the 8.8 and should be a Tloc

 

[iunderpressure]

You said something about changing out tires soon. I wouldn't worry about new tires until you need them. It was a firestone issue.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: casper
The economy has taken its toll on my wheels once more. Sold my 05 GTO just a few months ago and now my 05 4runner also found a new home (both cars are purchased by friends).

New vehicle is a 98 Ford Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L SOHC 121,600 miles.

Purchased from a professed "non-car guy" and it shows in the preventative maintenance. Already have a list of items from a local independent mechanic that looked it over. All the fluids need to be replaced sans coolant as it had a new thermostat installed just 2 weeks ago.

-F+R pads need to be replaced, rear rotors need to be replaced as well (total cost 220-250).

Other items to be tackled by me:

-Oil pan has small seep and the pan/gasket will be replaced

-transmission pan has small seep and the pan/gasket/filter will all be replaced. Fresh fluid will be installed at that time.

Already spent a good part of today at the local stores picking up goodies.

6qts Pennzoil 5w30 conventional
2 bottles Auto RX- one for engine, other for diff and transmission
Purolator Pure One filters
Fuel Filter
PCV Valve
Valvoline High Mileage PS fluid
Prestone Synthetic DOT4
ST 80W90 for first change(to include AutoRX)then swap M1 75W90.
B12 Fuel Additive

Still need to get oil pan gasket and transmission gasket.

Going to drain the installed oil and do a Blackstone UOA on that while I run the Cleaning Phase of the AutoRX and the Pennzoil conventional. Then Ill have a decision on what to do....go with a high mileage blend or go with something like a PP, M1 or Pennzoil Ultra.

Ill be switching it over to shell or chevron gasoline.

Tires are newer (less than 10,000 miles) but are well off brand and will probably be replaced soon as I just do not trust them especially given this models history with tires.

Ill have to refresh the headlights as they have yellowed over time. Bulbs will be replaced with something like Sylvania Silverstars or equiv.

Hood Struts, rear window struts and wipers will all be replaced as well.

Ill have to watch out for timing chain issues as the engine is notorious for it and there is zero paperwork to suggest that anything has been changed.

small issues with a major that has yet to rear its ugly head. Not a bad find for $3K. All in all, after all the fluids and basic stuff is done, it should run well for the next few years for a total cost of $3500. Edmunds lists it for 2900 and KBB has it for 4100. So all in all it will work for everything I need...larger for 2 dogs and aftermarket DVD system for the kid.

Anyone have thoughts? Anyone with experience with the 4.slow? any Gen II Explorer people?


Check the condition of the coolant anyway( ie; visual and with a tester ). Lots of guys drain off enough to change the T-Stat and then add what they drained back in or top off with new after the job is done. The point being don't assume because the T-Stat was changed the coolant was as well. Also, even if they topped off with new it won't be a lot. Doesn't take a lot to drain an engine down enough to do a T-Stat compared to the full amount in there. If the previous owner(s) were as bad about maintenance as you say then I would just do a coolant flush to be safe.

 

[bluestream]

Goodle "Ford 4.0 SOHC timing chain" then make sure you are sitting down...

 

[casper]

Looks like ill be taking back the diff fluid and going for the 140 then.

As for the coolant...paperwork shows a complete flush as well as the replacement of the t-stat. Coolant looks brand new by visual inspection.

The timing chain thing is at the very front of my mind...the cologne v6 is notorious for it.

 

[bluestream]

The transmission pan gasket is very robust and can be re-used many times. I doubt it is leaking at the gasket, more likely the input shaft seal. Mine has been leaking there for 7 years now, but still not dripping on the ground.

Use a Ford or a Fram transmission filter; they are the best. While you are in there I would take off the valve body. There are notorious for blowing the gasket and you end up with the infamous 5R55e shift flare. The gasket will usually blow by the reverse servo. If you dont take it off, at least re-torque the bolts to 95 inch pounds. Transmission parts USA make a replacement Viton “D” shaped rubber seal for the reverse servo, as this transmission is very slow to engage in either drive or reverse. The Viton seal will help with engagement speed a bit. Ford has a TSB on the valve body and there is an update kit for it. I have installed the kit in my transmission and it works well. It is an easy install, and I can send you the part number or the TSB from Ford. The 5R55E is very light duty, so don't tow anything heavy. The EPC solenoid is also a weak point as they wear out over time and pressures drop. Borg-Warner makes a replacement EPC that will give more pressure over the OEM Bosch Unit. I have installed the Borg-Warner unit in mine a year ago, and it has worked fine. It may buy you some time before you need a valve body re-build

Mercon V or Mobil 1 work great. When the pan is off, weld in a drain plug. (or use the bolt in type)

 

[bluestream]

Originally Posted By: casper
Looks like ill be taking back the diff fluid and going for the 140 then.

As for the coolant...paperwork shows a complete flush as well as the replacement of the t-stat. Coolant looks brand new by visual inspection.

The timing chain thing is at the very front of my mind...the cologne v6 is notorious for it.


Casper, here is a good thread on the 4.0 SOHC and related timing chain issues. Check out the sludge on that engine...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269442

 

[Nick R]

Yeah, I'd only run a good synthetic blend or Full Synthetic in that engine. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, Valvoline Synpower 5w30, or even Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 are good choices. (I have the Maxlife Blend in my mom's mustang 4.0L right now actually)

 

[97f150]

Motorcraft syn blend can be had for close to the same price as Pennzoil conventional.

 

[casper]

Thanks for all the help guys...

So far...Auto RX is in, diff is changed, and wires/plugs/coil all changed.

runs well but still has chain rattle. Tackling that subject now.

Ive been all over explorerforums and noticed many of the suldge, rattle or sludge+rattle discussions. Unfortunately it looks like ford just left everyone else to deal with their [censored] [censored] design for 40 years.

As for oil...The Pennzoil Conventional is in there only for the Auto Rx runs and will be replaced with something to the like of Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra for its sludge removal ability.

Difficult choice..

Go with a HM or a Syn. I like the idea of the Mobil 1 High Mileage.....

 

[wiswind]

Transmission pan gasket......if it is still the OEM, which is reusable, it is a metal covered with a black rubber type material gasket......stiff.
If you find a cork gasket in there, then someone has replaed the nice OEM one with a [censored] 1 time use one.

As for headlights......I did a bunch of reading on the sylvania website and found that the Silverstar, while they have a whiter light.....did not provide as nice of a light pattern as the lower priced Extravision.
Yellowed and/or scratched lenses is very common on many vehicles.

AutoRX, follow the application instructions on the AutoRX website.

PCV valve, I prefer to use OEM Motorcraft.
Verify that it fits nice and snug into the grommet.....if it is loose, buy a new grommet for a couple of bucks..

I am not familiar with that particular engine, but on my 3.8L motor, FORD used a RTV sealant for the oil pan.

If the valve covers are leaking.....Felpro makes some nice gaskets.....the rubber type.

For Spark plugs......stick with OEM Motorcraft or Autolite identical to original (if platinum, replace with platinum).

Power Steering fluid change would be a good idea......use ATF.....same stuff as you put in the transmission.

 

[casper]

Wis,

Thanks for that...

I got everything right except for the PS fluid...bought HM PS fluid but thank god i read the manual first and have been gradually just doing the turkey baster fluid change. It was grey when I first started and now its a dark red. We will get there eventually and the steering seems much smoother ( I wonder why!)

Went with Bosch +4's on the plugs and had a [censored] one from shop...so i had to replace that but thus far, it seems working well. Also replaced wires and coil all at the same time.

Valve covers look solid right now...non leaks detected.

I have yet to yank a pan on the thing as im working on the AutoRx right now.

Transmission will be worked on soon but with the seep that was in there (and is now stopped with HM fluid in there) there was a good amount of turn over and it seems that the fluid is quite fresh.