New toyota automatic transmissions with no dip stick

[faltic]

I have two vehicles with these type transmissions now. I'm thinking when these vehicles reach 30K I will do a drain and fill at the same time I do my regular 5K oil change for three or four times in a row. Reading and watching the variety of diy instructions on line I'm begining to get the notion that I will just drain and fill with a quart more fluid than was drained then drive it around the block remove the level ck plug drain any excess replace the plug and call it good. Anyone else thinking likewise? I can't see how the tiny bit of difference in level caused by a few degrees in temp of the fluid would be a consern. Someone with real world experance straighten me out on this.

 

[maxdustington]

I don't trust check plugs as much as I do a measured D&F. Your theory is sound, but make sure you manually shift through all the gears to make sure everything fills up. A quart of fluid is also a lot more than is necessary. You are essentially wasting an entire quart for no reason at all.

I agree that the fluid expansion is largely exaggerated, but leaving the fluid and car out overnight and then doing a measured D&F presents the fewest variables to screw up.

 

[BlakeB]

What vehicles do you have?

On my Tacoma I would drain 3.2 quarts and then put back 3.5, then do the temp check procedure. From what I've read, the 18°F temperature check range on the Tacoma's represents about 6.4 oz of atf. I never verified that myself.
I'm not sure what vehicle you have, but my Tacoma was easy to do a cooler line flush on, I always do 2 quarts at a time and haven't had any issues. About 7 seconds at idle would pump a quart of fluid out of the cooler lines on the Tacoma.

The temperature does matter. If you check the fluid level too hot, you'll let too much atf out... the opposite is true if it's too cool. A lot of people use an IR thermometer and that gets you close enough. Don't forget to cycle through the gears to fill all the passages in the trans prior to checking the fluid level, that can throw your fluid level off too.

 

[RoyFJ]

The AISIN A750 is used in many of Toyotas from FJ Cruiser to Tacoma to Prado and more. Its supposed to be sealed tranny with so called lifetime fluid. Company claims aside there are tons of horror stories of high mileage A750s with shuddering torque converter and burnt out fluids. It depends on how the vehicle has been driven and the environment but surprisingly Toyota's attitude to this has been casual at best, they have marketed hard core off road vehicles like the FJ Cruiser without a tranny cooler knowing well what rigors many owners are expected to put that vehicle through. Most savvy users like BITOG folks here have put aftermarket coolers like I have done. Those who have wheeled hard or used it in dunes or sand have had their fluid burn out under 30k miles or have had bouts with transmission overheat light coming on.
Same is the case elsewhere, Pradopoint dealing with with Aussie Prado vehicles that use the same A750 report overheating trannies with towing or generally hot running trannies in summer, same with the fjcc.co.au FJ Cruiser forum like the US fjcruiserforums.com
All are of unanimous opinion that frequent fluid change under 30k miles and transmission cooler goes a long way in getting life out of this otherwise mechanically sound transmission.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted by BlakeB
What vehicles do you have?


I'm going to assume that it's the 2017 Highlander & the 2019 Taco as everything in the OP's signature is either too old or brand new('19 Taco) for the question being asked. The Highlander will be first to get new fluid.
However, it could be another vehicle entirely not listed in the signature.

 

[FordBroncoVWJeta]

Originally Posted by maxdustington
I don't trust check plugs as much as I do a measured D&F.
What if it was under filled from the factory? Just keep under filling?

The no dip stick thing is nothing new. GM has been doing it since at least 2001.

 

[The_Nuke]

Another option would be to purchase one of those $10 fluid transfer pumps from Wally World or Harbor Freight and suck out as much as you can through the non-dipstick tube, replacing it with the exact amount you pulled out each time. Doing that several times over the course of a week or so should do a pretty good job of replenishing the fluid in the transmission while keeping it at a safe operating level as well.

 

[das_peikko]

What if the car ever has a transmission fluid leak? How do you maintain the fluid level without a dipstick?

 

[CourierDriver]

You all suggest that everyone in the USA can drain and refill their auto?? Guess what, many do not comprehend that way of living. With the advent of zillions of apartments being built everywhere in our cities, draining and filling days are about over, look around your large cities...IMHO

 

[tc1446]

Originally Posted by The_Nuke
Another option would be to purchase one of those $10 fluid transfer pumps from Wally World or Harbor Freight and suck out as much as you can through the non-dipstick tube, replacing it with the exact amount you pulled out each time. Doing that several times over the course of a week or so should do a pretty good job of replenishing the fluid in the transmission while keeping it at a safe operating level as well.


Perhaps that will work on a Toyota, but it don't on my Accord. Something down in the filler hold prevents a suction tube from going down!

 

[Snagglefoot]

Bittogers have a hard time with sealed transmissions. Toyota knows several things. Thirty percent of new car " owners " are leasing and would not dream of changing transmission fliud. Toyota knows that changing fluid during the power train warranty period makes almost no difference in making the transmission survive during the warranty period. Most transmission warranty claims are caused by people screwing around with their fluid levels in dipstick style transmissions.

The best bet is to share experience with how to pull out and replace the fluid so that the transmission will survive beyond the powertrain warranty. For instance, can a 3/8" OD tube enter through the hole and make it to the bottom of the pan? If so I have this: A shop vac pulls suction on the jug and the fluid travels from the pan to the jug. That's not a black hose. It's used transmission fluid in a clear hose.

Let's make it clear. Toyota does not care about subsequent owners and especially do-it-yorselfers.

 

[CharBaby]

Here's my thought.

When I do change the CVT fluid in my '15 Nissan, I am going to have the car up level on 4 ramps overnight.
I will have the new qts of CVT fluid sitting on the ground(also overnight) so they're as close to the same temperature as the fluid in the drain pan.

Without starting the engine to warm the tranny, I will drain the CVT fluid cold and measure the drained fluid. Then put back in the same amount of new "cold" NS-3 CVT fluid. How easy can this be?

Any opinions or thoughts or recommendations?

 

[HangFire]

I just reviewed the change procedure for my new-to-me 2010 Camry. It's not just temperature. There is a built-in soda straw/drain tube that helps determine the level of fluid in the pan. When you drop the pan bolt, you may get nothing out! Unless the transmission is fully hot, then you'll get a few drips. You have to remove the drain tube before the transmission will drain.

When I get around to it, I'm going to do the full procedure- level vehicle, warm to temp, etc, etc. It doesn't look hard in terms of exertion or access, just a bit tedious in terms of getting to up to temp (and not past it) and following all the steps in proper order.

I plan to accelerate the process by having the incoming ATF at 104F already. That way I won't have a second long warmup period, I should be good to do the moment it's in there.

 

[Chris142]

Our fj trans has to be a certain temperature to check the fluid level. I don't think driving it around the block is worth bothering with. It gets up to its 115f checking temp quickly just idling.

 

[faltic]

Correct

 

[faltic]

Originally Posted by Chris142
Our fj trans has to be a certain temperature to check the fluid level. I don't think driving it around the block is worth bothering with. It gets up to its 115f checking temp quickly just idling.

Correct

 

[TurboLuver]

Long video but very good info.

Toyota Trans Fluid Check

 

[faltic]

Thanks to all who replied

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted by FordBroncoVWJeta
Originally Posted by maxdustington
I don't trust check plugs as much as I do a measured D&F.
What if it was under filled from the factory? Just keep under filling? The no dip stick thing is nothing new. GM has been doing it since at least 2001.

Exactly. I've had people argue with me on some other forums when I suggest people do the check plug 'check' at least once to get a proper baseline but get responses like "the factory always fills it correctly" or "if you remove what you take out, it's fine".

In the OP's case, he/she can do the check plug 'check' NOW, before doing any fluid change to set the baseline.

 

[Pelican]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
Here's my thought.
When I do change the CVT fluid in my '15 Nissan, I am going to have the car up level on 4 ramps overnight.
I will have the new qts of CVT fluid sitting on the ground(also overnight) so they're as close to the same temperature as the fluid in the drain pan.
Without starting the engine to warm the tranny, I will drain the CVT fluid cold and measure the drained fluid. Then put back in the same amount of new "cold" NS-3 CVT fluid. How easy can this be? Any opinions or thoughts or recommendations?


This IMO is the best way to do it in the absence of the proper tools to measure temperature & quantity.