New Torque Specification and Installation Procedure for ACDelco Spin-On Oil Filters
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It would seem they have obviously seen some issues of the filter not being tighten correctly. I was always told "tight-then a half turn". I guess ANOTHER HALF TURN (= a full turn) makes some difference.
I had my hand calibrated.
Probably to address quick lube places tightening them like lug nuts.
Yea-because on this forum mistakes NEVER HAPPEN!
I have a hard time that the torque is 10Nm after the gasket touches... Maybe it's just me but 1 full turn would seem like it is way above 10Nm IMO but IDK...
I've never used a torque wrench to put a filter on and I'm probably not going to start now.
Just my $0.02
I've never used a torque wrench to put a filter on and I'm probably not going to start now.
Just my $0.02
10 Nm + 7.4 Lbs/ft
The first years of the Honda S2000 had some catastrophic engine failures, because the engine produces light vibrations above 7.000 RPM. Like a high reving 4 cylinder motorcycle engine.
Mechanics in the Dealershipos treated the S2000 oilfilter like every other honda: "Good ol handthight". Not a proper 3/4 turn.
Filter spins loose, oil spills over header, Engine damaged and / or car burned down.
Honda adressed this with a new filter wich has "7/8 Turn - 22-24NM" printed on it.
Since this time, it´s a gospel in the S2000 community to only use THIS uber special Honda filter and wrench it down, never use your hand.
There are even some oil filter holders for the S2000 on the market.
Just saying.... i never liked "handthigt" on any vehicle i owned. I allways followed the instructions closely. If a oil filter on a motorcycle spins loose, the oil get on the reare tire, this could end with a dead person.
Mechanics in the Dealershipos treated the S2000 oilfilter like every other honda: "Good ol handthight". Not a proper 3/4 turn.
Filter spins loose, oil spills over header, Engine damaged and / or car burned down.
Honda adressed this with a new filter wich has "7/8 Turn - 22-24NM" printed on it.
Since this time, it´s a gospel in the S2000 community to only use THIS uber special Honda filter and wrench it down, never use your hand.
There are even some oil filter holders for the S2000 on the market.
Just saying.... i never liked "handthigt" on any vehicle i owned. I allways followed the instructions closely. If a oil filter on a motorcycle spins loose, the oil get on the reare tire, this could end with a dead person.
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Nothing new - all the Japanese OEMs called for using a cup wrench and a torque wrench. No one does it, however.
I’ve always installed filters as tight as I can after the O-ring makes contact with the mounting base.
I’ve always installed filters as tight as I can after the O-ring makes contact with the mounting base.
This always works for me. No need for a torque wrench unless you have noodle arms and might under tighten it.
I also forgot to add - it’s impossible to over tighten a Japanese or Korean filter with a P/D-section O-ring gasket. The gasket and how it’s on the filter serves as a “torque limiter” of spots. American, German and French filters prefer to use the square-cut O-ring gasket which can be over-torqued and stick - hence why Fram and Puro tout “lubricated” gaskets - a stearate or PTFE powder lubes the gasket where it contacts the filter.
Ah so that's why the gaskets always fall off or get stuck to the block upon removal of Frams.
Depends on how soft the rubber base gasket is.
Not just a Fram thing, I’ve seen it happen to Wix and Champ filters too.
As a Hobby mechanic, i prefer a torque spec. It´s allways hard to find the "Starting Point" for the 3/4 Turn.
As a side note, i am also under the impression that the square cut gasket hold the filter thighter and more secure compared to the Japanese "Toyota-denso torque Stop" design with the P-shaped gasket. Are there any resources to read or comparisons about this?
As a side note, i am also under the impression that the square cut gasket hold the filter thighter and more secure compared to the Japanese "Toyota-denso torque Stop" design with the P-shaped gasket. Are there any resources to read or comparisons about this?
^^^ The P-gasket type filters rely more on the can lip digging into the filter mount to keep the filter tight, like a nut on a washer. Look at your filter mount, and you will see the mark on the seat where the can lip makes contact. Not the case with a flat/square cut base gasket.
Nope. I read this before, it dont happen in reality.
When i torque down the Honda Oil filter as advised with 24 Nm - 18 Lb/ft (7/8 Turn) at the engine it dont make Metall contact. I could turn the filter further. The seat at the engine Block has absolutely no mark. My torque wrench is from Hazet, should be precise.
I just have made a "Oil filter mount dummy" out of a aluminium plate, milled in a lathe to a smooth surface and with a exakt 90° M20x1.5 Screw in it. Tried it, mounted the Oil filter on the Dummey, there are also no marks in the Aluminum, depsite the filter has done full 7/8 turns with 24 Nm torque, as advised. I still could turn the filter further.... dont see any marks. And you could scratch the aluminium easily. Dont have pictueres ready, will do some at the weekend.
My Observation: No Metall contact, its only the P-shaped rubber seal that makes contact and hold the filter in place.
Everytime i change the filter at the car after a year it opens easy. To easy, in my opinion.
What´s going on?
When i torque down the Honda Oil filter as advised with 24 Nm - 18 Lb/ft (7/8 Turn) at the engine it dont make Metall contact. I could turn the filter further. The seat at the engine Block has absolutely no mark. My torque wrench is from Hazet, should be precise.
I just have made a "Oil filter mount dummy" out of a aluminium plate, milled in a lathe to a smooth surface and with a exakt 90° M20x1.5 Screw in it. Tried it, mounted the Oil filter on the Dummey, there are also no marks in the Aluminum, depsite the filter has done full 7/8 turns with 24 Nm torque, as advised. I still could turn the filter further.... dont see any marks. And you could scratch the aluminium easily. Dont have pictueres ready, will do some at the weekend.
My Observation: No Metall contact, its only the P-shaped rubber seal that makes contact and hold the filter in place.
Everytime i change the filter at the car after a year it opens easy. To easy, in my opinion.
What´s going on?
Well, every P-gasket type oil filter I've used makes can contact with the filter seat when installed per manufacturer instructions. You may have a unicorn.Nope. I read this before, it dont happen in reality.
When i torque down the Honda Oil filter as advised with 24 Nm - 18 Lb/ft (7/8 Turn) at the engine it dont make Metall contact. I could turn the filter further. The seat at the engine Block has absolutely no mark. My torque wrench is from Hazet, should be precise.
I just have made a "Oil filter mount dummy" out of a aluminium plate, milled in a lathe to a smooth surface and with a exakt 90° M20x1.5 Screw in it. Tried it, mounted the Oil filter on the Dummey, there are also no marks in the Aluminum, depsite the filter has done full 7/8 turns with 24 Nm torque, as advised. I still could turn the filter further.... dont see any marks. And you could scratch the aluminium easily. Dont have pictueres ready, will do some at the weekend.
My Observation: No Metall contact, its only the P-shaped rubber seal that makes contact and hold the filter in place.
Everytime i change the filter at the car after a year it opens easy. To easy, in my opinion.
What´s going on?
Here's the filter mount on my Tacoma. See that ring on the filter seat? That's from the DENSO oil filter (which uses a P-gasket) digging into the seat.
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