New to small engines/2 stroke - questions

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Seeing as my new string trimmer is my first small engine and first 2 stroke (and my first carb'd engine in some time for that matter) I had a few questions:

1) I know this probably doesn't matter but I gotta ask: should I do anything special to break it in or just go at it and not worry?

2) I can smell gasoline faintly if I stick my nose near the intake, it looks like the small fuel hose going from the primer button to the carb might seep a tiny bit at its end. Is this pretty normal with these tiny engines? Should I avoid storing it inside (in my garage) due to gas fumes or am I overthinking this?

3) Is it necessary to give it a rest and shut it off or let it idle periodically or is working it in the brush with heavy throttle for an hour or two at a time fine?

4) How long does the fuel *really* last? The guy at the shop said 40 days but the oil I bought has some stabilizer in it and I know gas lasts for months and months in car tanks..
 
1) not really
2)the smell is normal, it is not dripping from the hose? The carb is a pumper carb and it run with out reguard to the position of the carb. The primer pumps the gas to the carb and once the engine starts the crankcase pressure /vacume runs the pump.
3)It does not need a rest. It gets rest when the string needs attention. I have a Husky 325 that cuts 4 acres per year and lawn trimming duty that is 10 years ago and the carb had its rubber parts and sparkplug replaced in 2006 . The thing sits all winter and starts second pull after sitting if I do my part.
4)The gas lasts a long time . I have never added anything to the gas. I just used my pressure washer after sitting for 2 years . I drained the float bowl then started it up and it ran fine. All my gas powered stuff sits all winter and starts fine in the spring.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
1) not really
2)the smell is normal, it is not dripping from the hose? The carb is a pumper carb and it run with out reguard to the position of the carb. The primer pumps the gas to the carb and once the engine starts the crankcase pressure /vacume runs the pump.
3)It does not need a rest. It gets rest when the string needs attention. I have a Husky 325 that cuts 4 acres per year and lawn trimming duty that is 10 years ago and the carb had its rubber parts and sparkplug replaced in 2006 . The thing sits all winter and starts second pull after sitting if I do my part.
4)The gas lasts a long time . I have never added anything to the gas. I just used my pressure washer after sitting for 2 years . I drained the float bowl then started it up and it ran fine. All my gas powered stuff sits all winter and starts fine in the spring.
10 years old.
 
Thanks. Sounds like I should just not really worry about it overall, then.

The fuel hose isn't really dripping, no. I can just see a tiny bit of liquid seeping out the end. At least I think it's fuel -- It's connected around the small metal pipe going into the carb with about 1/4" of overlap, no hose clamp or anything. Like I said I don't think I can smell it unless I put my nose right up there. Just hoping it doesn't stink up the garage over a few days. I was assuming these things aren't necessarily supposed to be sealed up to the extent car engines are but just wanted to be sure.
 
Originally Posted By: rationull


4) How long does the fuel *really* last? The guy at the shop said 40 days but the oil I bought has some stabilizer in it and I know gas lasts for months and months in car tanks..


Be careful with how long you leave gas in that string trimmer. I personally would not go longer than 45 days. The most common repair for anyone in small engines is cleaning out and rebuilding a gummed up carb. Stabil helps, but running it dry at the end of the season is far better. As for any extra mixed gas you may have, I wait until I have a full tank of gas in my truck and burn it off in that. A 1/2 gallon of 50:1 diluted into a nearly full 26 gallon tank will not hurt anything.

Mowers and snowblowers you can *usually* get away with stabil, but trimmers and chainsaws you simply can't. The orfices in the carb are so small and they plug up very easily.
 
Try leaving two stroke mixture in a gas can for two years and all bets it degrades and smells like varnish because of the new ethanol fuel. Straight gas and two stroke mixture are not the same in longevity. Wonder why the shop recommends a 40 day limit.

The ethanol fuel is NOT good for these carb engines overall versus non ethanol. If you leave two stroke mixture in the fuel system for extended period of time rubber parts will degrade.

I like to drain the tank out and air dry it over night with the cap off. My limit is two weeks reason the equipment are used for many hours per monthly yearly. Just a safety precaution....and also air dry it out every couple of months even if with hard usage. The fuel sump is so small.

It might be different leaving it in a fuel can versus leaving it in the small engine fuel system...is what I'm saying...if your usage on small equipment is limited why leave it in the fuel system...leave it in the fuel can so it won't degrade the rubber parts.
 
We let all of our two stroke engines at the cabin sit all winter without draining the gasoline, boats being the exception. We run stabil in the gas all the time. I'll note we usually don't let the tanks stay full. You can blend in fresh gas when the time comes.

The last carb rebuild was on one of the 4-stroke lawn tractors. Your mileage may vary.
 
Nearly all gasoline in MN has been 10% ethanol since the '90s. Everything gets fed that at the Cabin and its been that way for over a decade...
 
Originally Posted By: rationull
Seeing as my new string trimmer is my first small engine and first 2 stroke (and my first carb'd engine in some time for that matter) I had a few questions:

1) I know this probably doesn't matter but I gotta ask: should I do anything special to break it in or just go at it and not worry?

2) I can smell gasoline faintly if I stick my nose near the intake, it looks like the small fuel hose going from the primer button to the carb might seep a tiny bit at its end. Is this pretty normal with these tiny engines? Should I avoid storing it inside (in my garage) due to gas fumes or am I overthinking this?

3) Is it necessary to give it a rest and shut it off or let it idle periodically or is working it in the brush with heavy throttle for an hour or two at a time fine?

4) How long does the fuel *really* last? The guy at the shop said 40 days but the oil I bought has some stabilizer in it and I know gas lasts for months and months in car tanks..


1) I like to run the first few tanks with more oil during break-in.
2) normal
3) If you using it under constant high load, I like to also run it with more oil. Example a chainsaw
4) It depends, fuel with stabilizer should be good for at least a few months.

So basically just run a quality oil at the recommend ratio and go.
 
I think us northern guys can get away with the over winter storage a bit easier because the gas probably doesn't degrade as fast when it's colder.

I was taught that 2 cycle engines are designed to be run at wide open throttle (under load) and that is how they run best. To run them at idle or half throttle for long periods causes things to carbon/gunk up (ie, the muffler screen, piston tops, etc.). Am I right?
 
One more question that I think goes along with this topic. I mentioned in another thread that I refilled my gas can yesterday and based on the line on the can made by the guy at the shop I bought it from, it looks like maybe the first can of gas (maybe 6 tanks) I ran through it was mixed at about 1:62 with oil instead of the recommended 1:50. I can't remember if the first time I filled it, I filled it to that line (which is more like 1.25 gallons) or by watching the gas pump (1 gallon). I put in 1 little bottle of oil that's supposed to mix with 1 gallon of gas.

So I might be running a break-in experiment here! Obviously the engine didn't seize, and the thing runs fine as far as I can tell, and any damage that was done is, well, done. But when people talk about running incorrect gas/oil mixtures being bad for these engines is this what they're talking about, or is would it have to be more lean on oil to screw it up?


I *think* I watched the pump, but I also thought I remembered the gas being up to the line so I'm still curious about it.
 
Originally Posted By: MNgopher
Nearly all gasoline in MN has been 10% ethanol since the '90s. Everything gets fed that at the Cabin and its been that way for over a decade...


I am glad it has worked out for you, but I buy fuel line and diaphram kits all spring, to get folks equipment running. It really is worth taking the fuel out for storage, stabilizer or not.
 
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