New to me truck getting it ready

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I've posted several threads on small issues with the truck that have been since worked out.

2002 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L 66k original miles.


Truck is in great shape for its age and runs well. As part of my routine of buying something used and wanting to get the most out of it, I go through all the fluids/flushes and routine maintenance to cover everything. So far I have done:

Power steering flush: fluid out was unknown brand. Fluid in was maxlife ATF. This was a pain in the butt to get the air out of the line/pump. Took probably 15 minutes of wheel rotating to get it done.

Coolant flush: Fluid out was unknown as well(most likely factory fill). Fluid in was Zerex G05 and a new thermostat and gasket.

Changed fuel filter: unknown brand out, duralast in.

Changed the old plugs(oem) with new oem plugs. Changed air filter as well.

Changed oil from Castrol conventional 5w20 and a purolator(unknown #) to Castrol Edge 5w30 with a Fram Ultra XG3600. This fixed my bouncing oil pressure gauge too!

Changed the cam synchronizer as per you guys suggesting it. The old synchro upon inspection had a lot of play in the shaft and made a slight grinding noise when rotating by hand. Thank you guys for helping me catch that!!

Two days ago I got a check engine light while riding around some back roads and plugged my code reader in got a P0122 for throttle position sensor switch low voltage. Went ahead and stopped at autozone and got another one for $35. Problem solved.

I have a belt drive kit and new plug wires on the way from rock auto as we speak. If there is anything you guys can suggest for me to look into or plan on next, I'm open to the suggestions. You guys have helped a ton already and Thank you again!


Edit: transmission shifts great right now and I will be dropping the pan and swapping fluid later on down the road as well.
 
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Keep an eye on the oil pan gasket for leaks. It is a common thing on these. That being said, to fix it right you have to lift the motor so it might be something you just notice and clean up occasionally.
 
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Keep an eye on the oil pan gasket for leaks. It is a common thing on these. That being said, to fix it right you have to lift the motor so it might be something you just notice and clean up occasionally.


Upon first and more recent inspections of that exact area, all seems well with no visible leaks yet. I will keep that in mind friend and thank you.
 
Originally Posted by NavyVet88
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Keep an eye on the oil pan gasket for leaks. It is a common thing on these. That being said, to fix it right you have to lift the motor so it might be something you just notice and clean up occasionally.


Upon first and more recent inspections of that exact area, all seems well with no visible leaks yet. I will keep that in mind friend and thank you.


It is one of the few oil pan gaskets we stock if that tells you anything.
 
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Monitor the front cover for coolant leaks. Also very common. Front cover becomes pitted around sealing surfaces.
 
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Originally Posted by NavyVet88
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Keep an eye on the oil pan gasket for leaks. It is a common thing on these. That being said, to fix it right you have to lift the motor so it might be something you just notice and clean up occasionally.


Upon first and more recent inspections of that exact area, all seems well with no visible leaks yet. I will keep that in mind friend and thank you.


It is one of the few oil pan gaskets we stock if that tells you anything.



Originally Posted by mattd
Monitor the front cover for coolant leaks. Also very common. Front cover becomes pitted around sealing surfaces.


Yep, and to do the timing cover per the book it says you have to remove the oil pan, but if you are careful and the oil pan gasket is good, you can do it without removing the pan.

As I already mentioned as well, coil packs, heater hoses (it is a one piece moulded affair) and the PCV elbow (for which there is an updated one) are also common (and yes it will go in without removing the upper intake).
 
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Keep an eye on the oil pan gasket for leaks. It is a common thing on these. That being said, to fix it right you have to lift the motor so it might be something you just notice and clean up occasionally.

You shouldn't have to lift the motor. When I changed the oil pan on my 98 3.0 the internet said I had to lift the engine. Instead I took the CV axle out of the driver's side then took out the three bolts holding the front differential in. I then lowered the differential and easily had enough space to remove the pan. It was a one day job start to finish.
 
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