New to me gen3 Hayabusa

On public roads, make sure the tires are inflated to the manufacturer spec, which is 42 PSI front and rear. I like to run a 190/55ZR17 rear tire, as it's a much more rounded profile than the OE 190/50ZR17. That more rounded profile rear tire really makes the bike feel lighter, and makes it more responsive to changing direction.

The OEM exhaust with it's three catalytic convertors is also heavy. Although it's a couple pounds lighter than the gen 2 OEM exhaust system.

I have a full Ti Akrapovic exhaust system on my 1st gen. The entire exhaust system weighs about 9 lbs. The lighter exhaust system really makes a noticeable difference. The upside/downside is that it's definitely louder.

Here's the Cycle World staffer Don Canet, talking about it and riding it on track at the 3rd gen launch. It might take more time to become familiar with, or maybe it's not the bike for you.





The Cycle World editor Mark Hoyer's take.

 
I’ve been looking at these for some time now and finally brought this one home on Black Friday, of all days.😆
It’s pretty clean with only 650miles on it and very minor plastic damage on the left side.
And of course some amateurs installed a fender eliminator on it, damaged some fasteners and just left the wires to hang whenever. Good thing the lights are working correctly.

It had its 600mile service but I will do my own soon, the brake fluid is also due as it’s a 22 model.

Anything else I should be aware on these? Feedback much appreciated.

These are really awesome bikes.
Just about everything has tipped over in a driveway in parking lot after enough time, light stuff is immaterial if annoying.
I didnt think it could get much better than my 90 Zx11 then this platform hit and it was great from gen 1 the gen 3 is amazing.

Congrats - ride safe brother.
 
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On public roads, make sure the tires are inflated to the manufacturer spec, which is 42 PSI front and rear. I like to run a 190/55ZR17 rear tire, as it's a much more rounded profile than the OE 190/50ZR17. That more rounded profile rear tire really makes the bike feel lighter, and makes it more responsive to changing direction.

The OEM exhaust with it's three catalytic convertors is also heavy. Although it's a couple pounds lighter than the gen 2 OEM exhaust system.

I have a full Ti Akrapovic exhaust system on my 1st gen. The entire exhaust system weighs about 9 lbs. The lighter exhaust system really makes a noticeable difference. The upside/downside is that it's definitely louder.

Here's the Cycle World staffer Don Canet, talking about it and riding it on track at the 3rd gen launch. It might take more time to become familiar with, or maybe it's not the bike for you.

Yup, I keeping the tires at 42 psi, nor reason to change this for street riding. I'm not planning on changing the exhaust. I like my bikes looking stock, plus it's quiet, meaning it won't attract as much attention. With lout exhaust, you could be doing 40mph in 1st or 2nd and people will think your ripping through their neighborhood and endangering their kids.

I agree with becoming familiar with it, especially all the electronic aids. I already set up a U1 preset with the quick shifter disabled so that I can get used to the way it shifts normally.
 
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These are really awesome bikes.
Just about everything has tipped over in a driveway in parking lot after enough time, light stuff is immaterial if annoying.
I didnt think it could get much better than my 90 Zx11 then this platform hit and it was great from gen 1 the gen 3 is amazing.

Congrats - ride safe brother.
Thanks and I agree, they've made these machines beyond what the 90's thought were possible. However I think this may very well be the last iteration of this great motorcycle and the category in general. Kawasaki doesn't look like they're going to update the ZX14R due to EU emissions and while Suzuki managed to keep up, they may give up once the emissions are tightened again.
 
The OEM rear fender came in and I installed it and cleaned up the mess of the wiring the other owner did. Also routed a battery tender plug under the rear seat. It's easy enough access and it won't be dangling out in the open, which I hate.

IMG_5626.webp



I don't like the stock license plate light on the rear fender, but I still prefer this look over the skinny fender eliminator, which on this bike makes it look like something is missing IMO. I think I will order another one from ebay and do some hackery with it to eliminate that ugly plate light.

IMG_5627.webp
 
Yup, I keeping the tires at 42 psi, nor reason to change this for street riding. I'm not planning on changing the exhaust. I like my bikes looking stock, plus it's quiet, meaning it won't attract as much attention. With lout exhaust, you could be doing 40mph in 1st or 2nd and people will think your ripping through their neighborhood and endangering their kids.

I agree with becoming familiar with it, especially all the electronic aids. I already set up a U1 preset with the quick shifter disabled so that I can get used to the way it shifts normally.

Yep, that's why I've kept the 3rd gen stock. They can't hear you coming from miles away, like they can our other Sportbikes. But the difference in weight between our lightened and hopped-up 1st gen and stock 3rd gen is noticeable, especially moving them around the garage.
 
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A very good friend of mine with a big heart died on Hayabusa last year. He had extensive large displacement bike experience and particularly with this bike as well. He was nudged out at high speed (to eternity) by a fellow rider.

I went on youtube to read about his bike after he past away and found this video. He owned 1st and 2nd gen Hayabusa.
The Hayabusa was the Suzuki answer to Honda Blackbird and from the very beginning it was designed to be the fastest bike on Earth. Hayabusa in Japanese means peregrine falcon and peregrine falcons hunt blackbirds.

 
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On public roads, make sure the tires are inflated to the manufacturer spec, which is 42 PSI front and rear. I like to run a 190/55ZR17 rear tire, as it's a much more rounded profile than the OE 190/50ZR17. That more rounded profile rear tire really makes the bike feel lighter, and makes it more responsive to changing direction.

Don't you mean the 180/55/17 is a more rounded profile than the Original Equipment 190/50/17???

The difference between a 180/55 and a 190/50 is profile and
diameter... the 180 is bigger in diameter and sharper in profile...
the change in geometry is as follows... going from a 190 to a 180
means rake is steepen and trail is shorten which lowers the steering
effort... whereas going from a 180 to a 190 means rake is extended and
trail is added which adds to the steering effort...

190/50/17= Diameter 24.480in or 621mm

180/55/17=Diameter 24.795in or 629mm

gallery_3131_51_11748.jpg
 
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Don't you mean the 180/55/17 is a more rounded profile than the Original Equipment 190/50/17???

The difference between a 180/55 and a 190/50 is profile and
diameter... the 180 is bigger in diameter and sharper in profile...
the change in geometry is as follows... going from a 190 to a 180
means rake is steepen and trail is shorten which lowers the steering
effort... whereas going from a 180 to a 190 means rake is extended and
trail is added which adds to the steering effort...

190/50/17= Diameter 24.480in or 621mm

180/55/17=Diameter 24.795in or 629mm

gallery_3131_51_11748.jpg
No, I said exactly what I meant.

While, the 180/55ZR17 is ALSO a more rounded profile than the OEM 190/50ZR17. The same holds true for the 190/55ZR17 I mentioned, and have been running on both of our Hayabusas. Years on the hopped-up 1st gen, and since the OEM tires on the 3rd gen were done at 1500 miles.

On our Ducati Panigale V4 Speciale, I'm running a 200/60ZR17. The OE size by the way.

Back in the 1990's, there wasn't much available beyond the ubiquitous 180/55ZR17 (typically for a 5.5" wheel), and the 190/50ZR17 (typically for a 6" wheel).

Times have changed. Today, many years later, there are other options available.
 
190/50/17= Diameter 24.480in or 621mm

180/55/17=Diameter 24.795in or 629mm

Those 190/180 50/55 numbers are nominal. If you were to buy multiple different 180/55 tires from different tire brands, you'd see differences in their actual diameters, sometimes very noticeable.
 
Those 190/180 50/55 numbers are nominal. If you were to buy multiple different 180/55 tires from different tire brands, you'd see differences in their actual diameters, sometimes very noticeable.

Yep, that's true with car and truck tires too.

An example in Motorcycle tires were the OE tires on the 1st gen Hayabusa. It had a Bridgestone BT56J tire which was the 190/50ZR17 size. However, it was actually a 196 if you measured it. It wasn't a great tire in my experience. Tires have improved dramatically in the ensuing 26 years.


As for 190/55ZR17 tires, both our BMW S1000RR and S1000RR M, also run the 190/55ZR17. It is the OE size on those bikes.

The 190/55ZR17 tires we run are actually 194.

The 200/60ZR17 is actually 193.
 
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Changed the oil at 800 miles. Still lots of little sparkles in the drain, but very few bigger pieces at the bottom of the pan, so I left the filter alone.
Will change it again in 500 miles or so.

View attachment 314158

Looking at that oil again, I doubt it was changed at 600 miles as the seller claimed. That's typical of a shared-sump 1st oil change. But a second change 200 miles later, shouldn't have anywhere near that amount of metal bits in the oil. Unless he was trying to use the bi-directional quickshifter while it was turned off...

The 1st change on my bike looked similar to the above pic, but the second change at a bit over 1k miles had very little. Subsequent changes have been even less.

I'd keep an eye on it, to make sure it clears up
 
Looking at that oil again, I doubt it was changed at 600 miles as the seller claimed. That's typical of a shared-sump 1st oil change. But a second change 200 miles later, shouldn't have anywhere near that amount of metal bits in the oil. Unless he was trying to use the bi-directional quickshifter while it was turned off...

The 1st change on my bike looked similar to the above pic, but the second change at a bit over 1k miles had very little. Subsequent changes have been even less.

I'd keep an eye on it, to make sure it clears up
You might be right. The carfax did show service at 450 miles, but that cannot be trusted and it's the reason I changed the oil at 800 miles, so at worst, I'm 200 miles over. I'm planning to do the next OC in 500 miles, we'll see how it looks like then.
 
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