New to me 90k miles BMW 535i intermittent VANOS code

[trd1zz]

Did you not get a PPI done before buying a 10+ year old BMW?

 

[edyvw]

Did you not get a PPI done before buying a 10+ year old BMW?

It is not V35A.

 

[Dadillac]

Wife had a 2007 328xi. I know not the same engine. But around 90k miles we also got a vanos code. First went on the BMW forums to find out what the hell a vanos was. Then I got a multitude of responses with one guy who just continued to reply "change your oil". I had done the previous oil change with Mobil 1. I finally took his advice and changed the oil with the proper Castrol european spec oil. That fixed the vanos issue.

Don

 

[CleanSump]

Castrol isn't the "proper oil" anymore than Pennzoil was the "proper oil" while Pennzoil had the BMW contract. Nice anecdote, but the brand of oil is irrelevant, clean oil of the correct spec was and perhaps, changing the filter if it was restricting flow.

 

[edyvw]

Wife had a 2007 328xi. I know not the same engine. But around 90k miles we also got a vanos code. First went on the BMW forums to find out what the hell a vanos was. Then I got a multitude of responses with one guy who just continued to reply "change your oil". I had done the previous oil change with Mobil 1. I finally took his advice and changed the oil with the proper Castrol european spec oil. That fixed the vanos issue.

Don

That is irrelevant what brand it is.
Probably the oil you had oxidized a lot due to not being changed for some time, or the level was low, so you had pressure issues. Any pressure issue will throw VANOS code.

 

[Dadillac]

Since the car is new to him there is a possibility that the issue I had may be the issue he is having. I shared my issue so that before going in for service or replacing parts an oil change with correct oil may be a first step. And for the 2007 328 the correct spec oil apparently did make a difference

Don

 

[97prizm]

2015 535i xdrive. 89k miles.

Car is in great shape visually, no leaks that I can see. The front windshield rubber is a bit dry rotted.

There’s one stored code that has me concerned and that’s intermittent VANOS failure to actuate (or similar).

What are my options for keeping this code from becoming a permanent failure code?

What's the code?

 

[CleanSump]

What's the code?

See Post #6

 

[newoilguy1]

Since the car is new to him there is a possibility that the issue I had may be the issue he is having. I shared my issue so that before going in for service or replacing parts an oil change with correct oil may be a first step. And for the 2007 328 the correct spec oil apparently did make a difference

Don

Castrol isn't the "proper oil" anymore than Pennzoil was the "proper oil" while Pennzoil had the BMW contract. Nice anecdote, but the brand of oil is irrelevant, clean oil of the correct spec was and perhaps, changing the filter if it was restricting flow.

Great advice. We found the oil filter slightly collapsed, but intact.

We did plugs at the same time and what used to be a really harsh vibration at idle is gone.

After clearing all codes none have come back (400 miles).

 

[newoilguy1]

Did you not get a PPI done before buying a 10+ year old BMW?

Quoting my father in law in his heavy European accent : “if you buy a car without problem you never learn anything.”

 

[Dadillac]

Great advice. We found the oil filter slightly collapsed, but intact.

We did plugs at the same time and what used to be a really harsh vibration at idle is gone.

After clearing all codes none have come back (400 miles).

So changing the oil and filter fixed your issue? If so glad it worked out for you. Owning the '07 taught me that the vanos is only happy with the proper European Formula oil. It will agree with other oils for a while but not very long. Not exactly sure what the difference really is but the vanos does

Don

 

[edyvw]

So changing the oil and filter fixed your issue? If so glad it worked out for you. Owning the '07 taught me that the vanos is only happy with the proper European Formula oil. It will agree with other oils for a while but not very long. Not exactly sure what the difference really is but the vanos does

Don

They will not throw codes with ILSAC oils etc. Those oils will leave deposits, mess up solenoids etc.
Filter assembly is key. Collapsed filter, that small o-ring. They will throw code in no time.

 

[edyvw]

Great advice. We found the oil filter slightly collapsed, but intact.

We did plugs at the same time and what used to be a really harsh vibration at idle is gone.

After clearing all codes none have come back (400 miles).

Yep. I thought something is with filter assembly. Which filter you used?

 

[GMBoy]

You need ISTA+ software to run a diagnostic. It is free to download, but there is a learning curve.
I would advise you to find an EUro Indy shop that knows BMW, as this easily can turn into throwing parts at the problem by some mechanic until they hit the target.
As I said, check the filter, though after seeing the codes, I doubt it is that. But do your due diligence.
Second, take off the plastic insulation and check the eccentric shaft sensor gasket (check YouTube videos). If the ESS gasket is leaking oil, it will leak into the ESS connector and make a short circuit. The gasket itself is like $7 OE, BUT if ESS is fried, it requires removing the valve cover, and ESS is not that cheap.
If the eccentric shaft is bad and the valvetronic servo, it is quite expensive. So, before you do anything (unless it is a filter gasket issue), find a reputable shop that can diagnose the problem properly. Regular OBD scanners won't help you pinpoint the exact problem.

Solid advice! reminds of a a customer who brought his in AFTER her replaced all he could with amazon garbage parts. Made my dignostics (I have BMW diag tools) that much harder. All it needed was an actuator and it was 2qts low on oil. Had he used a quality part (and checked the oil) he would have actually had it fixed himself. lol

 

[GMBoy]

They will not throw codes with ILSAC oils etc. Those oils will leave deposits, mess up solenoids etc.
Filter assembly is key. Collapsed filter, that small o-ring. They will throw code in no time.

I did not know that - I am saving that to memory!

 

[CKN]

It doesn't take much to make these things worthless to own. My son has one...if he wasn't able to repair it himself it would be in the junk yard long time ago.

 

[CleanSump]

Great advice. We found the oil filter slightly collapsed, but intact.

We did plugs at the same time and what used to be a really harsh vibration at idle is gone.

After clearing all codes none have come back (400 miles).

Try to stick with Mann, Mahle, and Hengst filters. They've been OEM suppliers. Aftermarket brands often are too long or have some other issue. Everytime I read of a BMW oil filter failure, it's always an aftermarket brand.
I stick with Mann. I tried others, K&N ripped twice, Mobil 1 twisted due to being too long. Others I just won't try when Mann are $11.

 

[edyvw]

Try to stick with Mann, Mahle, and Hengst filters. They've been OEM suppliers. Aftermarket brands often are too long or have some other issue. Everytime I read of a BMW oil filter failure, it's always an aftermarket brand.
I stick with Mann. I tried others, K&N ripped twice, Mobil 1 twisted due to being too long. Others I just won't try when Mann are $11.

Auto zone here has MANN for $8. This is Hengst after 5k OCI including track: