New to me 90k miles BMW 535i intermittent VANOS code

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Dec 7, 2024
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2015 535i xdrive. 89k miles.

Car is in great shape visually, no leaks that I can see. The front windshield rubber is a bit dry rotted.

There’s one stored code that has me concerned and that’s intermittent VANOS failure to actuate (or similar).

What are my options for keeping this code from becoming a permanent failure code?
 
Have you had a look inside the engine with an endoscope? Maybe through the filler? I would be looking for sludge to gauge next steps. The VANOS solenoids may be due for replacement, but perhaps they are gummed up.
 
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It’s not about the code, per se, it’s about making sure that the VANOS system is working correctly.

There are several reasons that VANOS systems start responding slowly - worn o-rings, worn parts, bad solenoids, and sludge/contamination, which may, or may not, cause some of the listed items.

VANOS needs a good supply of clean oil at the right pressure. If you’re getting the code, then, you’re not getting good oil flow, or the flow is blocked, or the flow is leaking out where it isn’t supposed to.

If you’re lucky, then, perhaps you can clean some of the sludge and get the system to work properly, but if the experience of members on this forum is any indication, you’re probably looking at mechanical repair (component replacement).

So, what to do in your case? Try a bit of HPL engine cleaner, or Valvoline Restore and Protect, see if cleaning up the oil helps with that flow. If not, find a good BMW mechanic.
 
First thing to do, the easiest and cheapest, is to check the oil filter.
1. A filter that does not fit well on the cage might throw code. Only use OE filters, or MANN, Hengst or Mahle.
2. A regular issue is a small o-ring on the bottom of the cage. People take it out and forget to put a new one back during an oil change. That small o-ring if missing, or not properly installed, or just bad quality, will 100% throw VANOS code.

Given that inspecting the filter on N55 takes 2.47 minutes, do it before you do anything else.

Screenshot 2026-01-11 at 9.29.43 AM.webp
 
What is the stored code?
One thing to check is the Anti drainback valves and the VANOS actuators for crud blocking the filters.
I ran EC30 to clean up any crusty stuff that might be in our N52 after the CCV failed. There was carbon all over the anti drainback valve filter screens and a little on one of the VANOS solenoids.
Crud on the these screens is pretty common as most people don't even know they're there, much less check.
 
the actual stored codes:

DTC (14 )

DME/DDE (Digital Engine Electronics)/ECM (Engine Control Module) (3)

DTC

135808

Description

Status

Valvetronic Servomotor, Position Sensors, Electrical:

Malfunction

Intermittent

135B11

Valvetronic Servomotor, Activation, Volt Phase: Line

Disconnection

Intermittent

108001

Intake Air Temperature Sensor, Electrical: Short Circuit To B+

Intermittent


I’m taking notes thank you every with the detailed replies so far. Happy Sunday.
 
the actual stored codes:

DTC (14 )

DME/DDE (Digital Engine Electronics)/ECM (Engine Control Module) (3)

DTC

135808

Description

Status

Valvetronic Servomotor, Position Sensors, Electrical:

Malfunction

Intermittent

135B11

Valvetronic Servomotor, Activation, Volt Phase: Line

Disconnection

Intermittent

108001

Intake Air Temperature Sensor, Electrical: Short Circuit To B+

Intermittent


I’m taking notes thank you every with the detailed replies so far. Happy Sunday.
You need ISTA+ software to run a diagnostic. It is free to download, but there is a learning curve.
I would advise you to find an EUro Indy shop that knows BMW, as this easily can turn into throwing parts at the problem by some mechanic until they hit the target.
As I said, check the filter, though after seeing the codes, I doubt it is that. But do your due diligence.
Second, take off the plastic insulation and check the eccentric shaft sensor gasket (check YouTube videos). If the ESS gasket is leaking oil, it will leak into the ESS connector and make a short circuit. The gasket itself is like $7 OE, BUT if ESS is fried, it requires removing the valve cover, and ESS is not that cheap.
If the eccentric shaft is bad and the valvetronic servo, it is quite expensive. So, before you do anything (unless it is a filter gasket issue), find a reputable shop that can diagnose the problem properly. Regular OBD scanners won't help you pinpoint the exact problem.
 
You need ISTA+ software to run a diagnostic. It is free to download, but there is a learning curve.
I would advise you to find an EUro Indy shop that knows BMW, as this easily can turn into throwing parts at the problem by some mechanic until they hit the target.
As I said, check the filter, though after seeing the codes, I doubt it is that. But do your due diligence.
Second, take off the plastic insulation and check the eccentric shaft sensor gasket (check YouTube videos). If the ESS gasket is leaking oil, it will leak into the ESS connector and make a short circuit. The gasket itself is like $7 OE, BUT if ESS is fried, it requires removing the valve cover, and ESS is not that cheap.
If the eccentric shaft is bad and the valvetronic servo, it is quite expensive. So, before you do anything (unless it is a filter gasket issue), find a reputable shop that can diagnose the problem properly. Regular OBD scanners won't help you pinpoint the exact problem.
Without seeing the car or knowing its maintenance history….^^^ this is your answer!
 
Personally, I don’t think that the appropriate viscosity on a moderate interval is gonna hurt it at all.

But, you raise a good point, so if you really are concerned about that, then I would throw a quart, or two, of High Performance Lubricants engine cleaner in there and keep your LL01 oil.

The engine cleaner has sufficient HTHS that it won’t degrade your oil
 
Everything else aside, how harmful would it be to run Valvoline Restore and Protect in a car that calls for BMW approved LL01 spec?
No expert, but I think a lot of those euro specs are designed around the use case for the cars in the domestic market combined with typical euro extended drain intervals. I think you’ll be fine with more sensible intervals like 5K. If the engine is sludgy, then shorter intervals are needed to keep things fresh and filtered. You should scope it to know what you are dealing with. As mentioned, those errors look electrical.
 
After you get the codes sorted out, drive and see if you have a consumption issue. If you do, go ahead and run the Valvoline Restore and Protect for 4-5k mile OCIs. Others have reported good results on the BMW car forums.

If you just want to make sure it's clean inside, use the EC30 like @Astro14 suggested.
I used 1.5 qts EC30 with 5.5 qts 0W-30 ESP for 5500 miles after I had a CCV failure in my X3. That cleaned out the crud I could see under the cap. I took it in for the loose VANOS Bolt Recall and the mech said everything was really clean.
I switched to HPL the next change last month. I've never had a consumption problem with that car in 135,600 miles of Castrol Euro though.
 
No expert, but I think a lot of those euro specs are designed around the use case for the cars in the domestic market combined with typical euro extended drain intervals. I think you’ll be fine with more sensible intervals like 5K. If the engine is sludgy, then shorter intervals are needed to keep things fresh and filtered. You should scope it to know what you are dealing with. As mentioned, those errors look electrical.
They are far from that. Euro oils have morw stringent oxidation requirements (especially BMW), deposit limits etc.
Typical problem on BMW engines, which run extremely hot (on hwy especially) is this opinion that one can run any synthetic oil and just cut OCI. Then, solenoids go bad etc. and it is then BMW fault.
 
Everything else aside, how harmful would it be to run Valvoline Restore and Protect in a car that calls for BMW approved LL01 spec?
I personally would address the problem. Hope is not strategy.
Anything related to valvetronic means you don’t have appropriate burn, which can accelerate cylinder wall scoring etc.
Solve the problem, then use EC30 or run Valvoline Restore and Protect for 4k.
 
Find a reputable indie shop that specializes in bimmers at www.bimrs.org. Find a shop that has tech with grey hair-they've seen it all. Dealer techs merely follow what ISTA says to replace.
 
The odd thing about BMWs is that when reading codes, some are not the root of the problem and can lead you down a useless rabbit hole. When the root cause is fixed, the others disappear. If you don't have a good sense of how to sort through based on knowing the systems, you may be better off going to a good indie like @Marcozi suggests.
As an example, I had an O2 sensor code and various fuel codes, but the root cause was a failed intake temp sensor. I could have spent big bucks chasing O2 sensors and injectors when it was just a $20 temp sensor.
 
The odd thing about BMWs is that when reading codes, some are not the root of the problem and can lead you down a useless rabbit hole. When the root cause is fixed, the others disappear. If you don't have a good sense of how to sort through based on knowing the systems, you may be better off going to a good indie like @Marcozi suggests.
As an example, I had an O2 sensor code and various fuel codes, but the root cause was a failed intake temp sensor. I could have spent big bucks chasing O2 sensors and injectors when it was just a $20 temp sensor.
That is why on ISTA+, there is a test that can pin point to the cause.
Like it has been mebtioned, a mechanic, with understanding of BMW's.
 
That is why on ISTA+, there is a test that can pin point to the cause.
Like it has been mentioned, a mechanic, with understanding of BMW's.
Agree. The casual BMW DIY guy probably won't get ISTA+ which is why I was pointing out that just reading the codes from a scanner might not pinpoint the problem.
 
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