New to Direct Injection

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The 2017 and some 2018 CRVs had OD problems, some pretty bad.

There was a leaky infection problem, plus some software programing short falls. Both were rectified under warranty and the warranty extended.

The same motor had been in the civic for two years prior to being used in the CRV without OD issues, it's was in the Accord too.
Yes. As already stated, it was due to software programming and cold weather short drives. There was software updates on all 2019 CR-V's moving forward and a TSB to update the '17/18 models as well as the warranty extension, like you mentioned.
 
Apples to proverbial oranges, I know...

I currently care for one, N/A GDI GM Impala 2013 with the 3600 Flex Fuel Hi-Lux engine in LTZ package.. 6 Qt. sump. Normally driven by and elderly woman that creeps it through town.

Giving her a short list of local gas stations to buy from (Top Tier no less) 5,500 miles OCI's or when the OLM pops with "CHANGE OIL SOON" (any clearance shelf 5W-30 full synthetic GM Dexos approved oil and/or filter clearance of known decent quality) I hit it with an intake throttle body spritz of CRC GDI-turbo Cleaner before I spill-'n-fill and follow label directed sit-n-soak at every 3rd OCI. I pop in new intake and cabin filters too.

Afterwards, it gets a lead-footed drive on highway. Any excuse to pass anything a fraction below posted speed limit.

Up on roll-up ramps it goes for OC and filter.

This engine does not seem *terribly* prone to intake deposits if treated this way. Only a slight veneer of carbon black that looks smooth and oily on the intake valves. No cruddy huge chunks of disaster waiting to rain down doom on valves or catalyst.

*Rubs back of head and blushes* I can't say if what I do for that Impala would work for any other make or model. But if it's a pure GDI power mill? Top tier fuel and a good romp once in a while seems to at least keep 'em clear and breathing free.
 
M1 ESP 5W30 MB 229.51 is superior oil in EVERY aspect compared to ANY D1G2 oil.
Turbo+DI? I would always go Euro specifications.
Except for LSPI.

Get with the times, MB229.52 is the spec to go with, since the engineers at Benz recognize the existance of LSPI and added a LSPI test and requires at least .7% fuel economy improvement over 229.51
 
Don't let the low mileage give you a false sense of security. I purchased a pre-owned 2017 Focus ST with 24,000 miles on it, and my intake valves were pretty heavily caked with carbon. I removed the intake & cleaned the valves, installed a catch can, and switched to Mobil 1 EP 10W-30 for its favorable sulfated ash & NOACK numbers. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...valve-deposits-ivd.326281/page-4#post-5419283
*Don't overlook Valvoline Advanced Synthetic either - very good in those two categories as well ...
 
Welcome!

The DI problems are exacerbated with a turbo. Use a d1g2 or even a dexos2 oil will go a long way. Fill up with premium, not regular. Napa Synthetic 5w30 is d1g2 and is on sale this month. There is nothing wrong with the M1 ESP you're using now, and Valvoline MST 5w30 is another good choice.

There are probably fuel treatments available that can mitigate the carbon disaster. Liqui-Moly makes good stuff, so if they have some kind of decarbonizer, use that every oil change. Even a regular fuel injector cleaner might be worth it, but it's still better if you can find a DI-specific one
*Why premium fuel ?
 
*Why premium fuel ?

Likely premium fuels' resistance to detonation over regular fuel could help mitigate pre-ignition knock beneath a pressure level that could be catastrophic? But unless a manual or gas flap sticker says "Unleaded Premium ONLY/REQUIRED"... skip it.

20210103_041913.jpg
 
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I am reading a lot about catch cans for the PCV. Any thoughts?
I put one on my 2013 sonata for about a year and a half. its fairly easy to do with the main considerations being a place to mount the can and routing the tubing so its neither kinked or in danger of rubbing. That aside they do seem to cut down on much of the oily moisture crud from going into the intake. There is a lot more of it than you think.
The one big issue I saw as during cold weather months. The can fills with this oily goo very fast due to condensation and you need to check it every couple weeks. Does it work, good question as I traded it . Im sure its not nearly 100% but less is certainly better I'm sure. Stuffing the can with stainless steel scrubber pad enhances its efficiency though it greatly cuts down on the cans storage volume so try not to buy a tiny can if you can help it. You could make one yourself easily enough yourself.
Something to watch for if you buy one, the supplied tubing strength. The one I got came with blue plastic that looked like reinforced PVC but felt a tad soft. I put it on and it immediately sucked flat so I switched it out for some appropriately sized fuel line and it was fine.
 
Octane rating does not impact fuel dilution, please show a factual source that it does.

Or were you just joking again?
 
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