new TL 07 break in

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So i just purchased a new 07 tl thats is really beutiful. Im reading on the manual and it states break in period is to vary speeds and somewhat baby the car.

is there some type of oil that "honda" put in that i should leave a bit longer...? or can i change it, when can i actually start having some fun with the motor?
 
Just leave the factory fill in for at least 3k miles and you'll be fine.

Drive the car reasonably and you should be OK. Most engines these days don't need much of a break-in period at all.

Check out tl.acurazine.com/forums/ for a TL specific forum. Our 3G community is very strong.
 
You are breaking in the transmission and drivetrain, and the brakes, as well.
The engine will run great pretty much independant of various break-in techniques. I wouldn't bounce off of the rev limiter, yet, but some full throttle at mid RPMs is very good for the engine.
Honda has used break in oil with a lot of moly in the past, and don't be in a hurry to get it changed out after 500 miles. It seems to do very well with a longer initial interval.
 
Nice car. You get the Type S or regular version?

Let me say this. Honda engines are amazing. Especially the latest generation of them. I have never seen one with a mechanical problem, other than from outright abuse. Change the oil when the maintenance minder says so. That is usually around 5 to 6k. Seriously, if you stay on top of the maintenance with this car (Oil changes, A/F's, etc) the engine will still run like a top well beyond 100K.

Hope you enjoy the car. If you have any questions about the car, feel free to PM me.
 
most engines made these days are amazing... in fact, most engines produced in the last 20 years are pretty amazing, and most any of them can still run like a top after 100k with proper PM.

In fact, we only have 2 in 9 cars under 100k, and they all run like tops and still best EPA economy... unfortunately the integra is the worst of all, because of the cheap junk rubber honda uses in their parts.

Beware of rubber parts degradation 5-10 years out and youll have a long happy service life.

Mechtech has it right - youre recall the 'tempering' of the rotors, the seating of brake pads, etc., in a real environment... treat it all nice, but dont forget to stress it when the oil is at full temp (20+ miles of driving at least), and when youre moving along nicely.

Good luck!

JMH
 
ok guys im at 5k! this car calls for 5w20...should i use synthetic M1 or should i stick with castrol dinomo oil?
 
well i think ill go synthetic, wow woppin 6 bucks a quart!

well i been looking for a mobil 1 oil filter but i heard that this car wants a m1-104....at kregan they list it as m1-110. fram lists it as a ph7313.

its a 07 acura tl. anyone care to help me on the filter sizes....?
 
M1-110 is the correct filter, it's equivalent to the 7317. M1-104 is equivalent to the 3593A, which is the larger filter for the older Hondas.
 
I agree with Critic, but I would highly recommend WOT often during break-in to help seat the rings. Eventually switch over to a good synthetic. I would use Amsoil 0w-20, MC/PP/Havoline depending on what drain intervals you are using.
 
Quote:


M1-110 is the correct filter, it's equivalent to the 7317. M1-104 is equivalent to the 3593A, which is the larger filter for the older Hondas.




for some reason mobil1 lists that filter in some areas for the TL users.

on another note, i didnt know you were in the sacramento area, i live in south sac near calvine....bet we pass eachother everyday! hehe

critic: thanks!

hehe you are the two guys i was hoping to reply to this.

how about the m1-112? it seems wider than this filter or is that just straight overkill?
 
Stick with the recommended filter. In the event that the filter fails and destroys your engine, at least you can make a warranty claim. You may not be able to if you aren't using the recommended filter.

I'm not that far south...I'm over in the Greenhaven area.
 
TL is a fat car. I dunno if you got a manual or auto, but a break-in technique I'm using now on my automatic Accord is to drive in 2. It puts a lil load on the engine since I start lightly, and I let it rev up and down, adding D3 when speeding up. My belief is that a manual engine breaks-in better, and I'm simulating that loading-downshifting effect. As far as oil, I don't know exactly what the moly level is in Honda FF, but TOYOTA FF I saw was 660 Moly and like 200 Boron. I'd say to pay attn to the 2nd oil fill as far as Moly content, look for a high moly or add some Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment at a minimum. I aquired some Chevron w/460 moly for 2nd fill, going in about 3k. I might even add some VSOT, like I did to the Factory Oil, lol.
 
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