New Strut making noise

[pbm]

I had 4 KYB struts installed on my Buick Century about 2 months ago. I bought the struts online and had a mechanic install them. One of the front struts started making noise about 2 weeks ago and I took it back to the mechanic. He believes the strut is defective. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get the defective strut replaced by KYB but what about the labor and wheel alignment costs that will need to be redone. Do I have any grounds to have them pay for it since it went bad in less than 6 weeks?

(it sounds like the piston is rattling around inside the cannister).

 

[Quest]

Nope, no grounds.

KYB only covers the strut replacement under workmanship warranty and they will not cover your cost for labour and alignment.

 

[pbm]

That's what I figured. I went with KYB over Monroe, Gabriel etc...because of the perceived quality. I guess anybody can make a dud. Thanks.

 

[porcupine73]

Could be a dud. Did the mechanic 'bleeed' the struts before installation? Probably did but I have some KYB GR2's for my Subaru's and they have a sloppy/dead spot unless they're 'bled' first. Also, are you sure the strut mount isn't rusted out or anything?

 

[Merkava_4]

What kind of a noise do you hear? Are you sure it's not an improperly installed upper strut mount?

 

[alreadygone]

Struts, new or old almost NEVER make noise. almost allways the mounting plate and/or bearing assembly. Seldom replaced often the problem that struts end up being replaced because of.

Bob

 

[pbm]

The noise is a 'rattleling' noise that is fairly loud at low speed. It seems to be making noise even though the strut can't be moving too much at that low speed. As far as bleeding the struts I don't believe the mechanic did that. How is it (bleeding) done?

 

[Merkava_4]

I highly doubt it's the strut itself; especially being a KYB. It just sounds to me like the strut was not properly assembled to the strut mount.

 

[porcupine73]

The bleeding procedure should be in the box with the new struts. It's basically just turning the strut upside down, pushing the rod all the way in, then turning it upright and letting the rod fully extend. Repeat about 3-4 times.

Once this is done, if the strut is moved too far from vertical or laid down on its side, the bleed should be repeated.

I noticed on some of the KYB's, that if you push the strut rod in about halfway and then pull up and down on it, there will be a little freeplay. The bleed procedure fixes it and then it's tight. It's air gets in the valving or something that gives that freeplay and the 'bleed' gets the air out.

 

[pbm]

Quote:

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I highly doubt it's the strut itself; especially being a KYB. It just sounds to me like the strut was not properly assembled to the strut mount.

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I'm begining to think you are correct. When I bounce the front end up and down it returns to normal on both sides in the same amount of time. (I'm thinking that if the strut was bad that side would bounce longer). I never even knew that strut 'mounts' and 'bearings' needed to be replaced. I guess I'll replace these parts and hope that does it. Since everything feels tight I'm going to hold off until after the summer so that I don't feel so bad paying for another wheel alignment.

The NYC area has some of the worst potholed
roads in the country AND some of the highest TAXES. Obviously the taxes aren't going into road repair!

 

[Merkava_4]

What year is your Century?

 

[pbm]

Sorry I didn't get back sooner but I've been busy. It's a 2002 with 83K. I am now certain that 'alreadygone' is correct that the strut mount and bearing are the problem. I'm going to replace them when I get a chance. Ironically the noise has subsided somewhat since last week so I'm going to put it off a few months. I won't feel so bad paying for another wheel alignment after a few months.

 

[lobo11]

I had something similar happen. The plate that sits atop the rubber grommet that the strut rod runs through and is torqued down with a nut was loose and needed tightened down. Just do not try and tighten with a wrench as the rod will spin. It needs to be held then tightened. My unerstanding is you can ruin the strut if you do not hold the rod while tightening. Maybe you got lucky like me and that is all it is. Othersise I would agree most probable something in the strut mount area. I used to go to a guy (retired now unfortunately) and he would not install struts on most vehicles with miles without new strut mounts--he said he just had too many returns where the mount ends u being needed replaced anyway.

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:

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I had something similar happen. The plate that sits atop the rubber grommet that the strut rod runs through and is torqued down with a nut was loose and needed tightened down. Just do not try and tighten with a wrench as the rod will spin. It needs to be held then tightened.

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The end of the strut rod should have a slot machined for a T50 Torx driver to hold it still while you tighten the nut.

 

[Merkava_4]

pbm, send me a PM when you're getting ready to do this because I unintentionally became an expert at changing the right upper strut mount on my 2000 Lesabre and I don't think your Century is a whole lot different. I'll give you my home phone number so I can walk you through it.