New Product from Redline

[LargeCarManX2]

Just thumbing through my new Summit catalog and noticed that Redline has a new product for diesel engines.

"Red Line synthetic is ideal for diesels that run hot, like warm-climate trucks or light trucks with heavy loads. This is the best choice in medium and heavy-duty diesel truck engines when maximum durability is needed. Red Line 15W40 is blended from the highest quality ester base stocks for long drain intervals and ultra-stable viscosity. Highly resistant to thermal breakdown. Red Line 15W40 synthetic provides double the detergent and acid-netralizing ability of conventional petroleum petroleum."

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

That oil has been out for a long time now. I ran it in a 6.0 PSD a couple of years ago.

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

RedLine has had a diesel oil for quite some time. It seems to be good stuff, but I can't see spending that kind of money for the OCI's I run. Also, since most diesel engines are going to have an engine oil cooler, high temps really don't come into consideration. Even pulling hard at full load/RPM in ~90*F ambient I don't see more than 200*F oil temps, and as soon as you top the hill it doesn't take long for my trucks to start heading back toward 175*F where they run mostly. I rather think cold weather is a better synthetic diesel oil consideration. Ok, I'll stop rambling on now, I think.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

Hey 1040,

I have a question regarding oil temp's....does the temp get hot enough in turbos to boil off oil?

I understand what you're saying as far as the temp of oil within the engine, but how much oil is stored in the turbo after shutdown and allowed to 'boil off'?

 

[LargeCarManX2]

I can answer that question

If a turbo is not allowed to cool down by just letting the engine idle for a few minutes...yes, most oils will coke in and around the bearings. I am sure a small area around the bearings have a small amount of oil the bearings ride in.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

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I can answer that question

If a turbo is not allowed to cool down by just letting the engine idle for a few minutes...yes, most oils will coke in and around the bearings. I am sure a small area around the bearings have a small amount of oil the bearings ride in.

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I'm aware of that and that used to be true....to some extent it's still true today.

From what I understand, with the newer engines there's less to worry about as far turbo coking is concerned. Banks even released an article that states while using a synthetic oil that turbo coking will be avoidable, especially in newer engines.

I guess what I'm looking after is the temperatures within the turbo after shutdown.

Here's the link: http://www.bankspower.com/tech_TD-fact-Fiction.cfm

 

[Steve S]

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I can answer that question

If a turbo is not allowed to cool down by just letting the engine idle for a few minutes...yes, most oils will coke in and around the bearings. I am sure a small area around the bearings have a small amount of oil the bearings ride in.

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I'm aware of that and that used to be true....to some extent it's still true today.

From what I understand, with the newer engines there's less to worry about as far turbo coking is concerned. Banks even released an article that states while using a synthetic oil that turbo coking will be avoidable, especially in newer engines.

I guess what I'm looking after is the temperatures within the turbo after shutdown.

Here's the link: http://www.bankspower.com/tech_TD-fact-Fiction.cfm

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It is still true Get an exhaust temp gauge and you will see at what temperature your turbo is at.I will say this shut down after running 1,000 degrees exhause gas temps for a while and there is no oil that will NOT coke. Water cooled turbos help quite a bit.

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

Well, a lot depends on how hard the engine has been run prior to shutdown. If you have a longer driveway it's probably cool enough to just shut it off. Also, the physical size of the turbo has a significant effect on turbo "coking." There really isn't much oil stored in turbo after shutdown, just residual oil on the components. The oil cavities, such as they are, in the turbo will drain down almost immediately after shut down.

People make a bigger deal out of EGT than is really necessary. Most types of cast iron used in turbine housings and exhaust manifolds will start glowing dull red about 1200-1300*F. The cast iron has to be 1300*F, not the EGT. I run my 7.3's all day long at 1350*F and have never seen the turbo or manifolds glow.

What is the temperature at shutdown in the turbo cartridge is the most important thing to taken into account, and I think that's what Arkapigdiesel is getting at. Most people don't pull a steep hill running 1200*F EGT pre turbo and then just shut the truck off. They may be pulling into a fuel station, business parking, etc. The temp of the turbo cartridge will have cooled quite a bit in that time. There are many variables to taken into account and ambient temps have a big impact.

Large frame turbo's are more forgiving. We have guys who pull into the yard and shut trucks off without any cool down all the time and I don't see any coking issues with the turbos. On small and mid frame turbos that you'll find in medium duty diesels, like in pickups, I let them idle for a minuet or two unless they have been pulling hard.

Certainly you should let the turbo cool down, and the longer the better to a point. All the modern engine oils are good enough they almost eliminate coking by themselves. I have seen more turbo's failure from seal problems from fast shutdown than coking.

 

[moribundman]

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blended from the highest quality ester base stocks/quote]

Wow, there's ONE company left that admits what they are actually using as base stock?

 

[Shannow]

mori, soon the others will be refusing to comment on whether they do in fact use a basestock of any description.

 

[LargeCarManX2]

My Cummings 400....beefed up a bit

runs 2,500 degrees and pushes some major pressure 30-35 into the engine. After I slow it down a bit 1,500 degrees, cruising is around 1,300 degrees and I idle it until the pyro reads under 900 or closer to 500 degrees. If I just let it idle for long periods of time 300degrees is what it's reading.

Anyone know when dino boils? or how about synthetic?

 

[moribundman]

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mori, soon the others will be refusing to comment on whether they do in fact use a basestock of any description.

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Exactly.

I'll give my business to those who actually proudly say what they are using.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

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My Cummings 400....beefed up a bit

runs 2,500 degrees and pushes some major pressure 30-35 into the engine. After I slow it down a bit 1,500 degrees, cruising is around 1,300 degrees and I idle it until the pyro reads under 900 or closer to 500 degrees. If I just let it idle for long periods of time 300degrees is what it's reading.

Anyone know when dino boils? or how about synthetic?

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Cummings? Never heard of that engine...

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

LCM - are you talking about an 855 Cummins? Like a big cam or N14? We still have quite a few 855's in the fleet, they still hold up, even when they are turned up. I have worked on and driven some trucks with V903 Cummins that were running about 750-800HP at the tires. They would build about 50-65PSI of boost and get 1900*F on a hard pull. I only saw 1 of those turbo's that had any evidence of coking.

As far as boiling point goes, according to Chevron's data, Delo LE boils around 599*F. On a hot shut down you are probably around 400*F oil temp (turbo drain oil), but again it depends on how hot the cartridge was at shut down.

Again, I think with any modern oil turbo coking is almost a thing of the past. In most cases, the way the truck is driven just before shut down is sufficient to allow the cartridge to cool to a point where it won't boil the oil. I always let my own trucks, and any that I drive idle until I see around 300*F EGT before shut down. Even though the exhaust gases are hot, they do have some cooling affect. Also remember that EGT is not indicative of cartridge temps, although cartridge temps to increase with EGT.

I think that most specialty companies are generally more truth full about their products. I've started buying pump biodiesel because the money goes back into my local economy and they always answer my questions, even the technical ones. I'm going to be buying more Schaeffer oil here shortly for the same reason. If I ran long drains and their pricers were a bit less I would buy from RedLine in a heartbeat. Their tech support is great and they also were very forthcoming with information. Well, if I've bored everyone enough now, I'll be off, I've got a CAPS pump that needs some attention.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

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LCM - are you talking about an 855 Cummins? Like a big cam or N14? We still have quite a few 855's in the fleet, they still hold up, even when they are turned up. I have worked on and driven some trucks with V903 Cummins that were running about 750-800HP at the tires. They would build about 50-65PSI of boost and get 1900*F on a hard pull. I only saw 1 of those turbo's that had any evidence of coking.

As far as boiling point goes, according to Chevron's data, Delo LE boils around 599*F. On a hot shut down you are probably around 400*F oil temp (turbo drain oil), but again it depends on how hot the cartridge was at shut down.

Again, I think with any modern oil turbo coking is almost a thing of the past. In most cases, the way the truck is driven just before shut down is sufficient to allow the cartridge to cool to a point where it won't boil the oil. I always let my own trucks, and any that I drive idle until I see around 300*F EGT before shut down. Even though the exhaust gases are hot, they do have some cooling affect. Also remember that EGT is not indicative of cartridge temps, although cartridge temps to increase with EGT.

I think that most specialty companies are generally more truth full about their products. I've started buying pump biodiesel because the money goes back into my local economy and they always answer my questions, even the technical ones. I'm going to be buying more Schaeffer oil here shortly for the same reason. If I ran long drains and their pricers were a bit less I would buy from RedLine in a heartbeat. Their tech support is great and they also were very forthcoming with information. Well, if I've bored everyone enough now, I'll be off, I've got a CAPS pump that needs some attention.

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Great read 1040. I knew you would give good, quality info. and then some because you've been there and done that

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

Well, I've certainly broken my share of equipment - just ask the boss

. Forget oil and grease anyway, a diesel engines worst enemy is the truck driver. Just got back from a midnight 30 wrecker call, just when you thought you could idiot proof something........

 

[LargeCarManX2]

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My Cummings 400....beefed up a bit

runs 2,500 degrees and pushes some major pressure 30-35 into the engine. After I slow it down a bit 1,500 degrees, cruising is around 1,300 degrees and I idle it until the pyro reads under 900 or closer to 500 degrees. If I just let it idle for long periods of time 300degrees is what it's reading.

Anyone know when dino boils? or how about synthetic?

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Cummings? Never heard of that engine...

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It's a C instead of a H

Ok, drop the G

I am old school and my 400 dates back to the eighty's and sets in a cabover Pete....or Peterbilt if you want specifics

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

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My Cummings 400....beefed up a bit

runs 2,500 degrees and pushes some major pressure 30-35 into the engine. After I slow it down a bit 1,500 degrees, cruising is around 1,300 degrees and I idle it until the pyro reads under 900 or closer to 500 degrees. If I just let it idle for long periods of time 300degrees is what it's reading.

Anyone know when dino boils? or how about synthetic?

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Cummings? Never heard of that engine...

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It's a C instead of a H

Ok, drop the G

I am old school and my 400 dates back to the eighty's and sets in a cabover Pete....or Peterbilt if you want specifics

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I was poking fun at you for putting the "G" in Cummins...

 

[Chris142]

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My Cummings 400....beefed up a bit

runs 2,500 degrees and pushes some major pressure 30-35 into the engine. After I slow it down a bit 1,500 degrees, cruising is around 1,300 degrees and I idle it until the pyro reads under 900 or closer to 500 degrees. If I just let it idle for long periods of time 300degrees is what it's reading.

Anyone know when dino boils? or how about synthetic?

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Ummm Alum melts @ 1350. How you runnin @ 2500 when everybody else back out of it @ 1100-1200?

 

[LargeCarManX2]

Look what Wreckerman is running too 1,900 degrees and alot more boost than me. Why would I pull your leg?

My Engine is older and his in newer. And I thought mine ran good. Wow!