Is there any valid reason for oil formulations and OCI's to be any different in Europe vs the US? As long as the engines are the same type (we will be getting more of those diesels here shortly) it should all be exactly the same, imo.
New Peugeot and OCI
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The difference i have seen between europen and Usa is that europe has minimum A3 and you in Usa has for example A1.
So europeans think thicker is better.
We have an Amsoil distributor here in Uppsala namely Normax.
But there homepage is not updated on Amsoil products. To bad actually since they could do some money if they update there homepage fresh datasheets.
They havent replayed on my email sent to them fore some weeks ago. Bad service.
But if we would like to use Amsoil we can buy from either Amsoil UK, excellent service but expensive.
Opie oils also located in UK and they are fast to reply on emails. They have excellent discount sometimes per year.
I cannot follow OEM OCI´s. I change my oil in automn and spring. Old habits but good indeed.
So europeans think thicker is better.
We have an Amsoil distributor here in Uppsala namely Normax.
But there homepage is not updated on Amsoil products. To bad actually since they could do some money if they update there homepage fresh datasheets.
They havent replayed on my email sent to them fore some weeks ago. Bad service.
But if we would like to use Amsoil we can buy from either Amsoil UK, excellent service but expensive.
Opie oils also located in UK and they are fast to reply on emails. They have excellent discount sometimes per year.
I cannot follow OEM OCI´s. I change my oil in automn and spring. Old habits but good indeed.
It depens on how long you are planning to keep your car.
I know someone with a Citroen Xsara in U.K who did 3 x 30.000 mile oil changes and the car survived. The oil was heavily sludged up when he was changing it (synthetic) but his plans were to keep the car for just 90.000 miles which worked fine for him.
You should consider the km you make every day - long or short runs , speed , rpm , outer temperature and the..price of the oil.
I would change it every 6-9000 m .
I know someone with a Citroen Xsara in U.K who did 3 x 30.000 mile oil changes and the car survived. The oil was heavily sludged up when he was changing it (synthetic) but his plans were to keep the car for just 90.000 miles which worked fine for him.
You should consider the km you make every day - long or short runs , speed , rpm , outer temperature and the..price of the oil.
I would change it every 6-9000 m .
That's right, the 30k is a max and the olm will tell more. The diesels in taxis may do as well with 30k as my car with 9k due to differencies in driving condtions. You have almost talked me back to my old habit of doing spring and fall changes with this car too!
Lars, don't worry about Merkava -- he's a quick oil change fanatic.
The big difference between European motor oils and here in NA (North America --Canada/US) is in conventional oils. In Europe, they still use Group I base oils in almost all their conventional motor oils. There is either none or virtually no Group II production in Europe.
Here in North America (Canada/US) we have switched to hydrocracked Group II base oils for almost all our conventional motor oils (5W-20, 5w30, and 10w30). Some of the higher 10W-40, 15w40 and 20W-50 weight PCMO's still use Group I base oils, but they aren’t recommended weights for any new cars (gas) for many years.
The reason they use thicker motor oils in Europe (particularly the conventional oils) is that Group I base oils in the thinner weights cannot meet the latest specifications (ie. … blending a 5W with Group I). If you go to Elf's international site, they don’t even list a conventional oil lower than a 15W (15W-40). Blending a 5w30 or even a 10w30 with Group I doesn't leave you with a very good motor oil (high NOACK and not very good oxidative stability). So, they blend the heavier viscosity oils to try and make the Group I based motor oils as robust as possible … 15w40's, 20W-50's …etc.
A good chance this is from Group I based oils that were run for fairly long intervals -- which they do in Europe compared to our shorter OCI's here in NA (even though our conventional oils here are far superior to those in Europe). Motor oils are very expensive in Europe compared to NA.
Lars, … I think if you are running a synthetic, then 12 - 15K kilometers is not out of the question.
The big difference between European motor oils and here in NA (North America --Canada/US) is in conventional oils. In Europe, they still use Group I base oils in almost all their conventional motor oils. There is either none or virtually no Group II production in Europe.
Here in North America (Canada/US) we have switched to hydrocracked Group II base oils for almost all our conventional motor oils (5W-20, 5w30, and 10w30). Some of the higher 10W-40, 15w40 and 20W-50 weight PCMO's still use Group I base oils, but they aren’t recommended weights for any new cars (gas) for many years.
The reason they use thicker motor oils in Europe (particularly the conventional oils) is that Group I base oils in the thinner weights cannot meet the latest specifications (ie. … blending a 5W with Group I). If you go to Elf's international site, they don’t even list a conventional oil lower than a 15W (15W-40). Blending a 5w30 or even a 10w30 with Group I doesn't leave you with a very good motor oil (high NOACK and not very good oxidative stability). So, they blend the heavier viscosity oils to try and make the Group I based motor oils as robust as possible … 15w40's, 20W-50's …etc.
A good chance this is from Group I based oils that were run for fairly long intervals -- which they do in Europe compared to our shorter OCI's here in NA (even though our conventional oils here are far superior to those in Europe). Motor oils are very expensive in Europe compared to NA.
Lars, … I think if you are running a synthetic, then 12 - 15K kilometers is not out of the question.
Drivebelt: ALL cars with 30 000 km/2 year OCI (limited by OLM) use synthetic oil 0w30 or 5w30 that is at least grp III (or a III/IV/V blend). Some are ACEA A3/... but most are ACEA A5... (or derivative).
xW-40/xW-50 is a thing of the past and is not in use in modern European cars (except xW-40 in some diesels and Italian cars)... I don't know of one new European car that use conventional oil today.. They all use synthetic or at least a blend. Even Japonese (built in Europe of course) cars sold here spec. synthetic oil.
xW-40/xW-50 is a thing of the past and is not in use in modern European cars (except xW-40 in some diesels and Italian cars)... I don't know of one new European car that use conventional oil today.. They all use synthetic or at least a blend. Even Japonese (built in Europe of course) cars sold here spec. synthetic oil.
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When I say Castrol GTX I mean (GTX9) Castrol Magnatec 5w30 C3
= SAE 5w30 • API SL / CF • ACEA A3 / B3 / B4, C3 • VW 502 00 / 505 00 • MB 229.31 or
Castrol SLX Prof. Powerflow 0w30 = SAE 0w30 • API SM ⁄ CF • ACEA A3 ⁄ B3 ⁄B4, C3 • BMW Longlife-04
Fair oil I would say and not low grade dino.
= SAE 5w30 • API SL / CF • ACEA A3 / B3 / B4, C3 • VW 502 00 / 505 00 • MB 229.31 or
Castrol SLX Prof. Powerflow 0w30 = SAE 0w30 • API SM ⁄ CF • ACEA A3 ⁄ B3 ⁄B4, C3 • BMW Longlife-04
Fair oil I would say and not low grade dino.
In 2005 Ford Europe did some testing to the under development at that time ACEA C1 oils.
Check page 20 !!
http://www.atiel.org/members/pdf_files/ACEA Stow.pdf
I suppose they wanted to see if there would be any problems during the warranty period.
Check page 20 !!
http://www.atiel.org/members/pdf_files/ACEA Stow.pdf
I suppose they wanted to see if there would be any problems during the warranty period.
hmm, interesting yannis. So Ford had no issues after long drains which sounds good. But on page 21 they also state that their priority is long service intervals etc, but not longevity of engine.
Still sounds like I should do some extra changes, since I want to stay ahead of the wear curve and just generally want things to be silk smooth and clean.
Still sounds like I should do some extra changes, since I want to stay ahead of the wear curve and just generally want things to be silk smooth and clean.
Ok, we got the Peugeot around christmas and we have driven it for 1000 miles now. I checked the oil and there is absolutely no visible dirt in it and it is still exactly at the same level as when delivered! Well, the car is new.
Also checked the warranties: The car has a 93 000 mile or 8 years engine warranty provided the cam shaft belt was changed by a peugeot dealer. Quite impressive to promise that AND a 19k miles/2 years OCI!
Checked with the dealer and they only use 5w-40 Statoil full synthetic engine oils, at least API SL.
I will do additional oil changes at least yearly in the autumn to get OCIs at about 4-5000 miles. Small cost, feels good.
Also go a reply from the swedish Amsoil dealer and they stock some Amsoil now. Prices on par with Mobil and Castrol. Will see if I will stock up.
Also checked the warranties: The car has a 93 000 mile or 8 years engine warranty provided the cam shaft belt was changed by a peugeot dealer. Quite impressive to promise that AND a 19k miles/2 years OCI!
Checked with the dealer and they only use 5w-40 Statoil full synthetic engine oils, at least API SL.
I will do additional oil changes at least yearly in the autumn to get OCIs at about 4-5000 miles. Small cost, feels good.
Also go a reply from the swedish Amsoil dealer and they stock some Amsoil now. Prices on par with Mobil and Castrol. Will see if I will stock up.
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