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Well here goes, I own a '01 Jeep Cherokee, 133k, 4.0L, and have only some idea of the past maintenance history of the car. It seems little was done in the way of fluid changes, etc., with the possible exception of the oil. How do I know that? Well, one of the first things I noticed upon getting the car home was the rear main seal leaking. Now that's not news to Jeep 4.0L owners, these things manage to leak from every oriface. The oil pan gasket and rms have now been changed. The tech told me there was virtually no sludge in the pan, and the rear-most main bearing had only nominal wear. Good signs, to be sure. The car burns, nor uses, no oil.

Now my question, what oil to use. I will tell you (flame me if you feel the need, but it won't change my mind), I am not a proponent of additives. I also believe in synthetic oil for new cars, but not on a HM that has lived on a steady diet of dino all it's life. So, given those guidelines, recommend away! I was leaning toward simple Valvoline 10w30 Premium or AC, until I started reading posts about their MaxLife. Again though, I assume ML would contain more additives? Isn't ML partly synthetic? All recommendations are welcome.

kcmk
 
use whatever is on sale, stick with a SL grade, 10/30, change it at 4-5K, with a filter and it will run till you sell it.
or listen to the next 20 posts about everyones favorite oil and why.
bruce
 
From Amsoil's site for a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L


LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Series 2000 Synthetic 0w30 Motor Oil
SAE 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 10w30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
Above 0°F......10W-30
Below 32°F......5w30

CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........6.0 quarts
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........12.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, 45RFE Initial Fill..........5.0 quarts[1][2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed AW4..........8.9 quarts
Manual Transmission, EX NV3550..........7.0 pints
Manual Transmission, NV3550..........6.5 pints
Differential, with 181 FBI Front..........3.2 pints[3]
Differential, with 194 RBI Rear..........3.6 pints[3]
Differential, with 8.25 ring gear Rear..........4.2 pints
Transfer Case,247..........3.4 pints
Transfer Case,231..........2.1 pints
Transfer Case,242..........3.0 pints
Transfer Case,249..........3.4 pints
 
C'mon Bruce you are pushing SL oil... still...? what happens when the rest of the world is running SZ... there will be no SL... Here's the deal SL is still out there but one day it will not...Let's move on.

Nothing wrong with Using Valvoline All-Climate now called Valvoline Premium Conventional. I am sure Valvoline has changed chemistry to comply with with the new standards and still protect your engine. I have used Valvoline all my life and have never had an oil related engine failure. None whatsoever....plenty of transmission problems but most of the time is was my own fault for neglecting or not doing rountine fluid changes...

Maxlife is formulated for higher mileage engines... It has seal conditioners which should in theory help seals hold oil in your engine... It does cost more but You are now a Bitoger and you should buy whatever brand you like when it's on sale if you can or find rebates.

Welcome to this board...Come here everyday and read read read you will learn so much.
 
I'll add that it is my understanding that the 300 ppm moly in the SM Maxlife should make up for the lower zddp levels and so SM Maxlife should be as good as an SL oil, or maybe better. Correct me if I am wrong.
 
ZDDP should be important for, having the 4.0L with a flat tappet. How can I find info. on contents / compliance of each oil, bearing in mind many manufacturers choose not to fully disclose on the bottle?
 
How about using 10w30 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil? Here is the product data sheet.

Note it has 1300 ppm zinc. This is better than the zinc in the new SM HDMO oil.

It ways for use in any car, light truck or van where SM is recommended. Available in 10w30, 20w50, and (page down farther) SAE 30, 40, 50 and 60.
 
KCMK,
Welcome!
Many people here are very loyal to the brands that use....me included....but I have changed a few brands upon reading and finding something that I think may be better.

You really can learn a lot here....so much good information.

I would change ALL the fluids, as they are now 6 years old.
This would include, Coolant, Brake fluid (just a bleed at each wheel), power steering fluid, transmission fluid and differential (if applicable).
Use a fluid that meets the specification listed for your vehicle.
In most cases......Better to change with generic (anything that meets spec.) than to not change at all.....so you will be FAR ahead of the masses.

Keep up on your maintenance....and your vehicle will thank you.
 
Quote:


what happens when the rest of the world is running SZ... there will be no SL... Here's the deal SL is still out there but one day it will not




laugh.gif
but by that time our beloved tractor engine will be nothing but a faded memory. No engine with that power density, being coupled with 60's valvetrain technology, is set for a long life in our contemporary automotive climate, no matter how robust it is. Maybe as an irrigation pump ..gen set maybe ..portable welder
dunno.gif
Those users will probably be using a mixed fleet oil that will be able to work well with it for a very long time.
 
Your fears/reservations about synthetics are not warranted. The use of synthetics should sensibly be dictated by either the severity of your service or the length of your service. If you're not in a severe situation and don't do a whole lot of mileage annually, then you don't need synthetics. Keep in mind that to some, 5000 miles/6 months is an extended drain. It's what's required for some in the "peace of mind" department that allows them to escape the 3k/3m prison.

You didn't report the level of consumption. That too tends to dictate your oil selection. Once the membership knows this, it may alter a few of their picks.

welcome.gif
 
Quote:


Pablo has oil for everyone. Gary too!



[censored] Pablo is gone of vacation i was going to pick up oil from his place this week. He is a essential service, i don't see the whole fire department going on vacation!!!
 
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