New Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax

[harbor]

I've had excellent results with Meguiar's HCW and Dr. Beasley'1201. From using these two hi tech products, I don't see myself going back to regular wax.

https://www.autogeek.net/dr-beasleys-1201-coating.html

 

[PimTac]

I've seen a few comments on other boards talking about problems with the Meguiars or Mothers new ceramic spray products. It always comes down to using too much. Less is more with these products.

 

[Ws6]

Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Ws6
Well, I bought this and used it per instructions (wash, dry, spray, high-pressure wash, dry). It sucks. Paint looks okay, but feels dirty compared to how it felt when I had simply waxed it. Meh. At least it was cheap.

Strange... Seems all of your posts are complaining about products that "suck."

What do you like?

How would you explain my success with Meguiar's HCW? My paint is as deep and glossy as ever and water rolls right off.


People are 700% more likely to complain about a failure of something than praise the success of something, so if I'm in the 7:1 ratio, it's pretty good. I'm pretty close to 1:1 or better, though, so I'm actually pretty positive.

Anyway...

Your paint is yours. Explaining it isn't something in my purview.

I really like the Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax. It's easier and faster to apply than the ceramic spray product, and it gave me MUCH better physical (smoother) and visual results.

 

[Skippy722]

I'll be trying this product Friday assuming the weather cooperates. They're currently forecasting 46 for a high, but being this area that could mean 30 and snowing hard or 75 and sunny

 

[HYUNDAIFAN0001]

Originally Posted by Ws6
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Ws6
Well, I bought this and used it per instructions (wash, dry, spray, high-pressure wash, dry). It sucks. Paint looks okay, but feels dirty compared to how it felt when I had simply waxed it. Meh. At least it was cheap.

Strange... Seems all of your posts are complaining about products that "suck."

What do you like?

How would you explain my success with Meguiar's HCW? My paint is as deep and glossy as ever and water rolls right off.


People are 700% more likely to complain about a failure of something than praise the success of something, so if I'm in the 7:1 ratio, it's pretty good. I'm pretty close to 1:1 or better, though, so I'm actually pretty positive.

Anyway...

Your paint is yours. Explaining it isn't something in my purview.

I really like the Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax. It's easier and faster to apply than the ceramic spray product, and it gave me MUCH better physical (smoother) and visual results.

I'm with you.

Results of the Ultimate Wax product seem to be nearly as long-lasting and smooth/shiny as the ceramic products with a whole lot less work involved. If I have to apply 3 times a year instead of 2 times...that will still take much less time than the ceramic products. Add a layer of spray wax with UV protection on top...and you have an amazing finish.

 

[RooflessVW]

I still have no idea how you think applying ULW is faster. With HCW I spray it on, smear it around, rinse it off, and dry the car.

Looking back at your post, it "sucks" because you used it wrong. You need to apply it to a wet car.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by rooflessVW
I still have no idea how you think applying ULW is faster. With HCW I spray it on, smear it around, rinse it off, and dry the car.

Looking back at your post, it "sucks" because you used it wrong. You need to apply it to a wet car.



+1. My hogwash meter is going off. There is zero
Work to apply the SiO2 rinse off products. None. Zero.

Indeed there is if it's a wipe on/wipe off (same level of effort as a wax then), or if you're applying a true siO2 curing coating like Cquartz.

Products like HydrO2 and HCW mist on, zero wiping, spray off with a hose. Nothing easier.

I appreciate the concerns about coverage. My observations with these products is absolute effective heading across all locations washed down by the spray after misting the product. While I'm sure some technique needs to be considered, the basis of using a strong spray all but assures good coverage and efficacy.

 

[HYUNDAIFAN0001]

Originally Posted by rooflessVW
I still have no idea how you think applying ULW is faster. With HCW I spray it on, smear it around, rinse it off, and dry the car.

Looking back at your post, it "sucks" because you used it wrong. You need to apply it to a wet car.

Apparently all the prep work to use a ceramic product "doesn't count" for some folks.

...or neither does the post-application cleanup.

Fuzzy math for sure.

 

[grampi]

Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
I still have no idea how you think applying ULW is faster. With HCW I spray it on, smear it around, rinse it off, and dry the car.

Looking back at your post, it "sucks" because you used it wrong. You need to apply it to a wet car.

Apparently all the prep work to use a ceramic product "doesn't count" for some folks.

...or neither does the post-application cleanup.

Fuzzy math for sure.


Prep work counts for applying any type of sealant. At the very least a wash and a claying needs to be done before applying sealant. Depending on how bad the paint is, it may need a correction too...

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted by rooflessVW


For an amped-up quick detailer I add Klasse Sealant Glaze to the standard red bottle Meg's QD.

I didn't know about that - I have plenty of Klasse silver bottle glaze. Never used the Meguiar's stuff, but I use Griot's or P&S' quick detailers. I'll give that a shot. A cap of Klasse to a quart of detailer?

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Full up high pressure rinse is important to hit the whole panel.

By high pressure - that means full blast from the hose nozzle in a strong stream or a pressure washer?

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by rooflessVW


For an amped-up quick detailer I add Klasse Sealant Glaze to the standard red bottle Meg's QD.

I didn't know about that - I have plenty of Klasse silver bottle glaze. Never used the Meguiar's stuff, but I use Griot's or P&S' quick detailers. I'll give that a shot. A cap of Klasse to a quart of detailer?

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Full up high pressure rinse is important to hit the whole panel.

By high pressure - that means full blast from the hose nozzle in a strong stream or a pressure washer?




The stronger pressure will distribute and rinse off the excess. Some formulations are different though. Sonax Spray and Seal just says to use a garden hose but I set the nozzle to the jet setting. As you rinse you can see the product flowing off. I'm not sure you will get satisfactory results with a weaker water stream.

There are products that do say in the instructions to use a pressure washer.

 

[RooflessVW]

Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
For an amped-up quick detailer I add Klasse Sealant Glaze to the standard red bottle Meg's QD.

I didn't know about that - I have plenty of Klasse silver bottle glaze. Never used the Meguiar's stuff, but I use Griot's or P&S' quick detailers. I'll give that a shot. A cap of Klasse to a quart of detailer?

I don't really have a formula, more a method - I give a 16oz bottle of QD a good squirt - you'll know the mixture is right when it doesn't flash off as quickly as the QD by itself. The initial wipe will leave a haze; flip the towel and buff to prevent streaks. Works really well.

I use it to keep the KSG "pop" on cars that are sealed with KSG, and for door jams, wood trim, etc.

 

[Patman]

I've been looking for this stuff to try it out but can't find it in any of the Walmarts I have checked in Western NY. I haven't tried the auto parts stores yet though, mainly because I find them way overpriced anyhow and I don't want to overpay for this. Truth be told I'm very happy with Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish and will probably just keep using it as long as it's available (I'm worried Meguiar's might discontinue it now that HCW is the newest hit for them) What I love about the UFF is that bird bombs don't leave any etchings in my paint, and I don't drive my Corvette in the rain but I did get caught in a quick rainfall once last summer and when the rain stopped and I pulled over to clean off the car, it wasn't dirty at all, it just needed a quick wipedown to get rid of a few water spots and that's it. So I find it behaves like a ceramic coating in that respect. And I found the best way to apply it is to give one quick spray on a small square microfiber sponge, wipe it on a small area of the paint and immediately wipe down any excess (but there won't be much) I can do the whole car in 15 minutes, so I re apply it every 4 weeks. So based on my success with UFF I'm really talking myself out of HCW, unless UFF is completely discontinued in the future. But even then, I'm more inclined to find another WOWA type of a product (perhaps the Wolfgang DGLS) as I don't really "wash" the Corvette with water, I just wipe it down with detailing spray and microfiber towels. So the process of washing this car to apply HCW is an added step that I wouldn't normally do. (in other words, I really wouldn't save time using HCW compared to UFF)

 

[RooflessVW]

HCW is the same price between retailers. Amazon for online or AAP for local are probably your best bet.

I really like UFF as well, but as you said it really depends on how you clean the vehicle. If you're using the pressure washer, HCW is a no brainier. If you're doing a waterless wash, UFF would be the way to go.

 

[Skippy722]

Well Friday's weather sucked, but today was gorgeous. As promised, I washed and sprayed the car with it. I definitely used WAAYYYYY too much, requiring me to wipe the excess off with microfiber towels. But after that, it looks great and the water beads real nice.

Cars parked on a slope that makes the hood pretty much flat, it all rolled off the roof and trunk almost instantly when I sprayed water on it.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by Skippy722
Well Friday's weather sucked, but today was gorgeous. As promised, I washed and sprayed the car with it. I definitely used WAAYYYYY too much, requiring me to wipe the excess off with microfiber towels. But after that, it looks great and the water beads real nice.

Cars parked on a slope that makes the hood pretty much flat, it all rolled off the roof and trunk almost instantly when I sprayed water on it.

Those beads look terrible. Did you decontaminate the paint (i.e. clay) before applying? I doubt this will last more than several weeks if you did not properly prep paint.

 

[Skippy722]

Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by Skippy722
Well Friday's weather sucked, but today was gorgeous. As promised, I washed and sprayed the car with it. I definitely used WAAYYYYY too much, requiring me to wipe the excess off with microfiber towels. But after that, it looks great and the water beads real nice.

Cars parked on a slope that makes the hood pretty much flat, it all rolled off the roof and trunk almost instantly when I sprayed water on it.

Those beads look terrible. Did you decontaminate the paint (i.e. clay) before applying? I doubt this will last more than several weeks if you did not properly prep paint.


No, it was 6:30pm and that wasn't a project I was about to start. Beads way better than before... being that it didn't bead at all. Like I said, all I did was wash it, spray it on, wipe it down, and rinse one last time. If we slow down at work any, I'll take a day and clay bar it properly and report back.

Edit: I went and poured 64oz of water on the hood. Beads way better than my first pic. I noticed that if there's too much in one area, it beads bad. Still had a couple spots where I had it on too thick.

 

[PimTac]

These products do need some time to cure. That's why beading improved from right after application to now.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted by PimTac
These products do need some time to cure. That's why beading improved from right after application to now.


That is true, but at the same time, during that curing process you shouldn't be getting it wet at all. So you're slightly compromising it's protection if you don't wait 12-24 hours after application before testing out how well it beads water.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by PimTac
These products do need some time to cure. That's why beading improved from right after application to now.


That is true, but at the same time, during that curing process you shouldn't be getting it wet at all. So you're slightly compromising it's protection if you don't wait 12-24 hours after application before testing out how well it beads water.



That's the ideal process. Exposing it to water right afterwards does compromise the effectiveness and longevity.