I pick up my new generator tomorrow to replace the 15 year old one that fried during our last ice storm. The manual online said to install the provided 30w oil and change after 30 hours. After that it shows a temperature chart for what oils to use. They also say that 5w30 synthetic can be used in all temperatures. My questions are, what would you use after break in and would you use 30w SN rated Chevron Supreme for the normal service intervals after break in? I have a bunch and it’s cheap. I can also get Napa 5w30 for 3.19 a quart so the cost isn’t really a big deal. Just thinking that a straight weight is better in this situation.
New Generac Gp6500 oil recommendations
- Thread starter mpgo4th
- Start date
I've had two Generac 16 kw standby generators over the past 14 years. I've stuck with 5w-30 full synthetic, have seen very little oil consumption and have had no engine problems. I believe the Generac engines are known to consume some oil when using multi-weight conventional oil and synthetic blends. I'd use Havoline ProDS before I'd use Chevron Supreme.
If I had the SAE30 on hand, I would use it and not worry about it.
I have run both M1 10w-30 High Mileage and Rotella T6 5w-40 in my generators here in southeastern PA. I cannot say as I have noticed a difference. My generators live in the garage, meaning they are never below 40 degrees when started. My current go to generator is a Harbor Freight Predator 3500 inverter. It has 20 hours on the M1 10w-30 HM and another 7 hours on the RT6 5w-40.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
They run hot and don’t hold much oil … treated my new 9500 to Redline 10w30 ester/PAO
My generator is pull start, that with cold weather, i use 5w30. Amsoil HDD 5w30. High TBN as it sits a lot.
Common sense would tell me to use what is recommended by the manufacturer on a NEW generator. Common sense seems to be a rarity these days.
Your common sense is failing you...
Because OPE manufacturers are still stuck in the 70-80s...regarding oil weights&specifications...
You know more than they do.....LOL.
Yes....big thanks goes to BITOG! 
The manual for that generator lists sae 30, 10w30 and synthetic 5w30. Page 10.
Fine....for an instance...if I buy the same or similar OPE (it doesnt have to be a generator per se) over here...
Sae30....usually is SF/SJ/CD(something from an ancient aliens on History channel.) ....I can buy it in special ope shops....1L is way more expensive than any other PCMO/HDEO oil...
10w30...almost non exsistent over here...you have to go to special farm-oriented shops where they sell STOU/UTTO oils for a farm equipement....and they often sell those in a bulk....20Liters or more
5w30....those are plentifull, but hmmmm Which one? VW 504/507? MB 229.51 maybe? Dexos2? BMW LL-04....
I usually just buy full saps A3/B4 10w40 or 5w40...those you can literally get in every grocery over here...and are cheaper then anything else...
OPE works just fine on those....for last 25yrs
Sae30....usually is SF/SJ/CD(something from an ancient aliens on History channel
.) ....I can buy it in special ope shops....1L is way more expensive than any other PCMO/HDEO oil... 10w30...almost non exsistent over here...you have to go to special farm-oriented shops where they sell STOU/UTTO oils for a farm equipement....and they often sell those in a bulk....20Liters or more
5w30....those are plentifull, but hmmmm
Which one? VW 504/507? MB 229.51 maybe? Dexos2? BMW LL-04.... I usually just buy full saps A3/B4 10w40 or 5w40...those you can literally get in every grocery over here...and are cheaper then anything else...
OPE works just fine on those....for last 25yrs
And yes....we also have oils (0w30 5w30) like A5/B5/C5/C1/C2(usually coupled with Ford/Jaguar/PSA specs)....with a reduced HTHS...similar to your ILSAC/API
Thanks....but no thanks! Wont put that even near my OPE or car...
Thanks....but no thanks! Wont put that even near my OPE or car...
Tell that to Generac if you have an engine problem and listen to them laugh when they reject your warranty claim.
Never claimed to be more intelligent than the OEM. Just stating that they aren’t always correct with recommendations. Sometimes people in the field have better service doing things a different way. Like Ford recommended fill for life PTU oil. Or GM Dexcool. Both were great on paper and in testing, but in real life they don’t work. Shorter intervals and fluid replacements fixed the OEM recommendation.
it doesn’t matter. Run whatever gives you a warm fuzzy. Small engines are basically the same as they have been for the last 100 years other than going to overhead valves, aluminum blocks and nylon timing gears. If they have ball bearings on both ends of the crank they are high end. The biggest thing to worry about is that it has the proper amount of oil in it.
And that oil is not "energy conserving".....with other words...it has higher HTHS
