New garage cost?

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Having an 18x20 small two car garage built w/ electric door and outlets on 3 sides. It's the cheapest garage option. Small window, cheap door, cheap man door. Overhead door would tie into paved alley. Concrete finished floor.

I've gotten quotes of 11,200 & 12,500.

The lesser quote breaks down to $31 sq ft.


I thought it would run me around 8-9k......I was wrong.
 
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14 x 24 Home Depot garage kit is $9,272 w/o floor.

If someone is building it for $11.200, take it - seems fair.

I think the problem is you underestimated the price.
 
I would think a single garage with a side door would run $6-8,000 just ballparking wood, foundation, sheathing, shingles doors and labor.
 
Make sure you get building permits for the garage. I know of quite a few people, in my area, that had to take down the garage before they could sell their home.

They never applied for and received permission to construct a garage.

Taxes would be higher with the garage on their property.

BTW....they all had the permanent concrete slab foundation.
 
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All permits are included in the price. I'm going to go ahead and have it built as soon as I close on my new house.
 
Go for a 22x24 if you can at all fit it. A little more outside sheathing leads to a tremendously bigger amount of room inside.

Also consider non-stick building methods... cinder blocks, all metal quonset hut, etc.

If you go stick, go with prefab roofing trusses. Any contractor who'd rather fudge this to save pennies on wood is just wasting time, and your money on his time.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Go for a 22x24 if you can at all fit it. A little more outside sheathing leads to a tremendously bigger amount of room inside.

Also consider non-stick building methods... cinder blocks, all metal quonset hut, etc.

If you go stick, go with prefab roofing trusses. Any contractor who'd rather fudge this to save pennies on wood is just wasting time, and your money on his time.


i agree ^ and 18x20 you will regret if you ever need to park a full size pickup in it. 22x24 or 24x30 would be worth the cost. I was a general contractor for 7 years prior to getting into the home energy field. its hard for us to estimate a cost for you since we do not all live in chicago. materials and building supply prices vary from city to city.


with a larger garage you will have room for shelves and parking. there is nothing worse than a tight garage. you end up with door dings and not being able to park anything other than small cars in it.


also remember that the cheapest contractor isn't always the best. they may be, but they may not be. same goes for the expensive ones, they may be expensive and lousy. you need to check with your BBB and find a few with A ratings in your area. after you do that ask around about them.

if you have a few local large lumber yards ask them to recommend you contractors. the best contractors generally stay busy. the lumber yards know who buys what and can point you to contractors that buy large volume. this usually means they stay busy. a busy contractor in this economy means they do pretty good work.

you have to be careful as there are a lot of fly-by-night contractors out there these days.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Go for a 22x24 if you can at all fit it. A little more outside sheathing leads to a tremendously bigger amount of room inside.

Also consider non-stick building methods... cinder blocks, all metal quonset hut, etc.

If you go stick, go with prefab roofing trusses. Any contractor who'd rather fudge this to save pennies on wood is just wasting time, and your money on his time.


Lets consider trusses over a hand cut rafter.
The truss causes the ceiling to be flat and in essence you lose a lot of possible shelving space. In all truth trusses are no better than a properly cut roof,and if its cheaper then go for it.
I am a custom home builder,multi-unit residential fabrication expert and in my 20 years in the business I've easily framed a million square feet of building.
As far as your garage goes if you can build 10 foot walls then I suggest doing it. I've never heard anyone complain that their garage is too big.
Radiant heat whether in the floor or a ceiling mounted burner is the most efficient form of heat.
My brother and I built 1 24x28 garage,framed with roof sheathed(not shingled) and man door/window installed in a 10 hour day last summer every Saturday to make vacation money.
12 grand finished with siding and shingles is cheap. Jump on it.
 
In Chicago cement generally goes through several freeze and thaw cycles each year. And along the thickness, and any re-bar enforcement, there is a wide range of strength that cement can have.

If the earth is very soft, you might want to pack it or have it packed down before putting in the cement. Some also use a layer of stone before the cement is put down.

In general cement from a cement truck (along with specifying how many yards, usually 2 to 8 yards per truck, but some places have larger trucks that can hold 10 or even 12 yards), cement is ordered by how many sacks of cement per yard.

There are also pumper cement trucks that can pump a cement to hard to reach locations. Cement from a pumper may not have the same size stones, and some may not have any stone.

In general, I assume you will be looking for cement from a cement truck that has a barrel that turns.

Low cost cement is usually something like six and a quarter sacks per yard. High quality cement like the cement used for a bridge is usually something like nine and a quarter sacks yard. Different states have different standards, but are in the same ball park, like one state may order 9.25 sacks per yard, another may order 9.5 sacks per yard, for bridges and overpasses.

Along with increasing the amount of cement per yard, high quality (super structure) or (bridge cement), is also made with special additives.

One of the additives causes the cement to take a long time to cure. Cement that cures over a long time is stronger than similar cement that was cured fast.

One of the additives causes the cement to retain moisture so it will not dry out too early during long curing.

One of these additives causes the cement to foam up so that when it dries there will be very small air bubbles through-out the cement. These very small air bubbles give the cement room to expand and contract during freeze-thaw cycles. And this prevents the cement from cracking.

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If you want a garage floor that will not crack because of freeze-thaw cycles, you might want to look into a cement mix similar to bridge cement, including the three special additives, to retard the cement so it takes a long time to cure, to cause the cement to stay moist during the long cure, and to cause the cement to foam up so that it has very small air bubbles that provide room for it to freeze and thaw.

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Also ALWAYS have the cement truck driver spin the cement barrel for five minutes at an increased engine speed, before you have any cement poured from the truck.

If the driver runs the barrel while traveling to you, more cement will be on one side of the truck than on the other side. This can cause the truck to flip if it makes a fast turn. Therefore even though it may have taken the driver something like a half hour to get to your location, do not assume he ran the barrel on the way there. And if he did not run it on the way to you, and you do not make him spin the barrel fast for five minutes, you may end up with too many stones in the last part of the batch, and too many stones towards the end of the mix can make it hard to get a good finish for the surface.

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Now days you can also order cement with colors added to it.

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And one last thing, if you do go with super-structure cement, be sure to have someone who knows how to finish the surface around to help shape the cement. Because this much stronger cement is really tough to grind to change the final surface once it dries.

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Finally, there is even a variance in the quality of the cement itself. Some cement manufacturers have long ago mined the good stuff from the site they are working. Others may have a site that has very good cement. So a cement made with X number of sacks from one site, might be somewhat different final strength than a similar cement made with the same number of sacks but made from cement that came from a different site.

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In general, high quality cement can cost about twice as much as low quality cement.
 
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Originally Posted By: Win
Prepare to spend twice that once the bureaucrats get in the big middle of it.




I have an uncle who lives in Rochester NY. He wanted to add a large garage, and when he applied for the building permit, it was turned down. He wrote a petition and put together drawings of how it would look. He got his neighbors to sign the petition, and he got a lawyer to help out. The local power to be then approved the permit, but modified it to be a smaller size.

So if there is any chance that the local government who approves or denies building permits for a garage, might give you a hard time, start off with a request for something larger that what you want, so you can settle for a smaller size (that you really want) after you give in to them.
 
^ I got 3500 lb test concrete, with receipt to prove it. That's the minimum for if you ever want to put a lift in, for example.

They mixed a little fiberglass in for some reason (strengthening.) Their idea.

FIL, a general contractor, rented this engine thing with helicopter blades underneath, like a huge floor buffer, to polish up the concrete when it was almost set.

Consider provisions for floor drains, wiring, cable tv etc before you pour the slab.

Spend days dreaming reading garagejournal.com too.
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