New Engine. Need help deciding on an oil

[Mccull]

Hello. New guy here. Been looking around and I saw on one of stickies here that it seemed to be best to just put out there what I have and the help will come? I'll give it a shot. Any and all input is greatly appreciated. I want to do this right.
I have a 2008 silverado 5.3 4x4
I have a brand new custom build coming basically a cam and punched out to a 5.7. Long tube headers, air intake tube, cat back exhaust. Custom tuned as well. Buolder and tuner are expecting 450-475hp Don't know how any of this matter but the sticky said to be specific.

My wife drives this truck mostly and she can have a lead foot. Especially if she gets behind something to drive. I tend to typically drive everything like I stole it. Don't get me wrong, I take care of my stuff, but I like to DRIVE my vehicles if you know what I mean.

Anyway, I am going to go exactly by what the builder says for break in. In the break in instructions from them it says 20-50w valvoline conventional. I'm assuming that is 20w50? I am going to stick with this for warranty purposes for break in and first few oil changes.

Where to go next? I'd really appreciate some knowledgeable feedback which is why I came to BITOG. Please help!

 

[oil_film_movies]

With the increase in horsepower, I'd step up to an oil that has higher performance level specs (and is actually used in endurance racing, like Lemans24hours, etc.). Mobil1 0w-40 or Castrol Edge 0w-40. After the Valvoline 20w-50 breakin that is.

 

[buck91]

If the builder can't even properly name a 20w-50 oil and is calling it 20-50w then I'm not sure how much faith I would place in their lubrication recommendation.

What gen SBC is going in? I believe most called for xw-30 from the factory with maybe some older units calling for xw-40. I would consider that.

In any case, if you want to stick with conventional, you'd be hard pressed to beat Rotella in your favorite flavor. Will this be a roller or flat tappet set up?

 

[Kuato]

What does the builder recommend AFTER break in?

 

[OptOut]

Sounds like a solid XXw/40 is in order. im not a fan of mobil but i wont say its a "bad" oil. whichever big name brand makes you feel comfortable and carried API specs. I personally run Castrol edge (black) 0w40 euro blend

 

[BenzFella]

New guy here chiming in. Kinda interested - would something like 15w40/10w40 Maxlife be more acceptable in the colder time of the year? Because 20w50 in January sounds like the builder REALLY wants to replace/rebuild your engine again...

 

[FCD]

So your builder wants Valvoline VR1 20W-50, It's a great oil and i recomend it to many people but i would rather use Mobil 1 15W-50 in that LS motor, a Dino 20W-50 might be too thick at start up... use the VR1 until the warranty is over and then go to M1 15W-50.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Mccull
Hello. New guy here. Been looking around and I saw on one of stickies here that it seemed to be best to just put out there what I have and the help will come? I'll give it a shot. Any and all input is greatly appreciated. I want to do this right.
I have a 2008 silverado 5.3 4x4
I have a brand new custom build coming basically a cam and punched out to a 5.7. Long tube headers, air intake tube, cat back exhaust. Custom tuned as well. Buolder and tuner are expecting 450-475hp Don't know how any of this matter but the sticky said to be specific.

My wife drives this truck mostly and she can have a lead foot. Especially if she gets behind something to drive. I tend to typically drive everything like I stole it. Don't get me wrong, I take care of my stuff, but I like to DRIVE my vehicles if you know what I mean.

Anyway, I am going to go exactly by what the builder says for break in. In the break in instructions from them it says 20-50w valvoline conventional. I'm assuming that is 20w50? I am going to stick with this for warranty purposes for break in and first few oil changes.

Where to go next? I'd really appreciate some knowledgeable feedback which is why I came to BITOG. Please help!


This truck with its 450HP and your wife's lead foot sound like a danger to us all on the streets of USA.

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Mccull
Hello. New guy here. Been looking around and I saw on one of stickies here that it seemed to be best to just put out there what I have and the help will come? I'll give it a shot. Any and all input is greatly appreciated. I want to do this right.
I have a 2008 silverado 5.3 4x4
I have a brand new custom build coming basically a cam and punched out to a 5.7. Long tube headers, air intake tube, cat back exhaust. Custom tuned as well. Buolder and tuner are expecting 450-475hp Don't know how any of this matter but the sticky said to be specific.

My wife drives this truck mostly and she can have a lead foot. Especially if she gets behind something to drive. I tend to typically drive everything like I stole it. Don't get me wrong, I take care of my stuff, but I like to DRIVE my vehicles if you know what I mean.

Anyway, I am going to go exactly by what the builder says for break in. In the break in instructions from them it says 20-50w valvoline conventional. I'm assuming that is 20w50? I am going to stick with this for warranty purposes for break in and first few oil changes.

Where to go next? I'd really appreciate some knowledgeable feedback which is why I came to BITOG. Please help!


This truck with its 450HP and your wife's lead foot sound like a danger to us all on the streets of USA.
Doesn't sound that dangerous, just have to watch that rear end step out, especially if it has a locker! If it's a roller cam, Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge 0W40 does sound like the way to go-if you're ever going to drive it in winter, it's not going to like starting with dino 20W50 (unless it's in a heated garage). In summer, VR1 is one of the best 20W50 oils, though.

 

[AirgunSavant]

Builder was probably tired or in a hurry.
No big deal. Do you have any idea on how many questions you get on a new customer and build?

Originally Posted By: buck91
If the builder can't even properly name a 20w-50 oil and is calling it 20-50w then I'm not sure how much faith I would place in their lubrication recommendation.

What gen SBC is going in? I believe most called for xw-30 from the factory with maybe some older units calling for xw-40. I would consider that.

In any case, if you want to stick with conventional, you'd be hard pressed to beat Rotella in your favorite flavor. Will this be a roller or flat tappet set up?

 

[Bgallagher]

decently enhanced engine with more HP? I would go with Mobil 1 5w-40 after the break-in oil. 20w-50 is pretty thick for an Indiana winter

 

[ARCOgraphite]

No way 450 HP. Ive built many and you wont get that with stock heads. Maybe 375 on a good day. You dont want 450 Hp in a truck any how - you want big torque (370+ft-lbs) from 1500- 3500 rpm with peak HP at about 4700.

Oil + NO ILSAC OIL WHATSOEVER.

Instead, a decent Motorcycle 4T. (40 grade with good additives) Otherwise pay big bucks for specialty lubes.

If the motor is built right it shouldn't need a 50. Just 40 with the goods.
Assume it will maintain the roller cam and stock bearing clearances around 2 thou.

Any head work?

 

[Randy_R]

I don't know why you would want anything more than a 0 or 5W30 unless you are using it between changes. I would go full synthetic, Amzoil or Joe Gibbs or something that is made for a hot setup like yours. You paid big bucks for all that power. Lighter flows better as long as you maintain pressure. My $.02.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

flow is not the main concern here - its maintaining journal float under big loads. That take some viscosity.

 

[FCD]

Originally Posted By: Randy_R
I don't know why you would want anything more than a 0 or 5W30 unless you are using it between changes. I would go full synthetic, Amzoil or Joe Gibbs or something that is made for a hot setup like yours. You paid big bucks for all that power. Lighter flows better as long as you maintain pressure. My $.02.

As ARCOGraphite said he really does need something more than 5W-30, if he really does have a left foot he needs a high HTHS oil in the 4.0-5 range as it will put a lot of pressure on the bottom end of the engine, clearances are probably larger than factory too.

 

[Mccull]

Wow. I never expected to get so much input. I can tell this forum is differentirely than most. Lots of knowledge and maturity here which is rare in a forum.

It is a roller cam. Should be close to stock clearances. Bottom end is all stock.

No danger. My wife actually only drives with a lead foot on the way to work. I'm worse than she is.

I'm not looking to debate numbers. I don't know what they thing will push. I'm just going off what my builder is saying. I will have a dyno sheet when I'm done so I guess I will see.

Buidler recommends the 20w50 for break in afterwards. He specifically says valvoline conventional 20w50. He says it's best for bug cams. However my cam isn't that big.

Thanks for the input guys. Really helpful.

 

[FCD]

On a stock bottom end with stock clearances 20w-50 is not needed... i would use Mobil 1 0W-40 or Pennzoil Euro 5W-40.

 

[Mccull]

I know it's been a while. I've been busy. Finally got the builder to tell me to use Joe gibbs break in oil. Any recommendations on which one?

 

[cmhj]

Again, what does the builder suggest?

 

[Mccull]

They weren't specific. Just said Joe Gibbs break in oil. I'm not going to ask because it allows me a bit of freedom that they weren't specific.