New cylinder head in 1.8T. How long till OCI?

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My mothers 2002 VW GTI just had the cylinder head replaced. The old head had corrosion by the water port on cylinder 1. This caused it to leak in to the combustion chamber.

Anyways, me and a mechanic friend replaced the head. The new oil that went in there is Pennzoil Ultra, He said, that I should change the oil at 200 miles. It sounds like overkill to me. Any mechanics here want to share your opinion?
 
You shouldn't have used PU..it is a waste.

I would've used a cheapie conventional HM oil and changed at 1, 2, 3k miles then I would've gone back to synth.
 
Agreed, wrong oil to dump quick. The mech may have assumed (correctly) your mom would ignore the immediate OC advise. Yep - get it out pronto. I would do 1 more fill and dump after another 1k. Just buy some 10w-40 MC5K or similar for the 1K OCI. Takes a couple flushes to get most of the glycols out.
 
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.
 
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.

You never want to breakin a new head with synthetic...i wouldnt be suprised if you start to burn oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.

You never want to breakin a new head with synthetic...i wouldnt be suprised if you start to burn oil.


I don't think that is true. Sounds like a myth to me, also sounds like a load of [censored]. First of all it states in the owners manual this car requires synthetic oil. It states on the VW website that their cars require synthetic oil. I don't think that they are putting in conventional oil straight from the factory and then selling the cars to people. They would have to replace a lot of turbos under warranty if that were the case.
 
Hah! if you think American marketed "full synthetics" are synthetic. Or Magically much better than conventional. They have a premium detergent package to try to make a 10K OCI. If you are changing the oil at 1K It doesnt matter much unless your mother shuts the car down without a cool down often - then you want REDLINE or Motul 300V in there.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hah! if you think American marketed "full synthetics" are synthetic. Or Magically much better than conventional. They have a premium detergent package to try to make a 10K OCI. If you are changing the oil at 1K It doesnt matter much unless your mother shuts the car down without a cool down often - then you want REDLINE or Motul 300V in there.


Aside from that, unless it was one of the hard to find PU European speced oils, I doubt it would meet the VW requirements to begin with. One has to ask why VW requires synthetics and requires certain specs. Long drain intervals are a significant part of the reason. A couple very short OCIs with conventional isn't going to hurt a thing.
 
I do agree with the frequent oil changes and so forth. Antifreeze will linger for quite a while after the leak and or headgaskets blow.

I'm sure running the PU was a good idea. I think it claims and will do its job of getting some of the antifreeze out. But change it out after 1,000 to 2,000 miles than go to a conventional for the money.

Can anyone comment about how frequent the oil filter should be changed?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hah! if you think American marketed "full synthetics" are synthetic. Or Magically much better than conventional. They have a premium detergent package to try to make a 10K OCI. If you are changing the oil at 1K It doesnt matter much unless your mother shuts the car down without a cool down often - then you want REDLINE or Motul 300V in there.


ARCOgraphite,

Are you telling me that the only thing that makes American synthetic oil better than conventional oil is its ability to last longer in the engine? Are you saying it does not offer any supperior protection in the short term? For a turbo engine? Are you saying that if PYB was used for a 3k mile OCI and then PU was used for a 3k OCI. That they would both have the same amount of wear(same driving conditions)?

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Hah! if you think American marketed "full synthetics" are synthetic. Or Magically much better than conventional. They have a premium detergent package to try to make a 10K OCI. If you are changing the oil at 1K It doesnt matter much unless your mother shuts the car down without a cool down often - then you want REDLINE or Motul 300V in there.


Aside from that, unless it was one of the hard to find PU European speced oils, I doubt it would meet the VW requirements to begin with. One has to ask why VW requires synthetics and requires certain specs. Long drain intervals are a significant part of the reason. A couple very short OCIs with conventional isn't going to hurt a thing.


Garak,

From VW.com

The right motor oil that meets VW standards:

* Helps keep your engine clean.
* Helps your engine "turn over" more easily.
* Provides optimal protection under more extreme driving conditions.
* Coats and lubricates vital engine components helping reduce friction and increase horsepower.
* Helps improve fuel economy by 5% or more.*
* Allows engine parts to move more freely and helps reduce heat and overall wear.
* Remains more stable at higher temperatures instead of beginning to break down early.

I would think any high quality synthetic oil would meet these qualifications.

Originally Posted By: iluvhonda
I do agree with the frequent oil changes and so forth. Antifreeze will linger for quite a while after the leak and or headgaskets blow.

I'm sure running the PU was a good idea. I think it claims and will do its job of getting some of the antifreeze out. But change it out after 1,000 to 2,000 miles than go to a conventional for the money.

Can anyone comment about how frequent the oil filter should be changed?


iluvhonda,

The head gasket did not blow. The coolant was only leaking in to the combustion chamber. I don't think the oil got that heavily contaminated. The car has 59k Miles.
 
Look in the Pennzoil Ultra etc fact section, it's a grp III oil, so iffy to be called a synthetic in the first place in your requirement for synthetic... this is not a slam against pennzoil, unless you order boutique oils that will really dip into your bank account your running highly refined conventional....

Now if it were me I would run 3 OCI's short, but maybe not 1k short I would look at 3k OCI with a HDEO oil, Rotella T 5w-40, however the Rotella, Delo, Mystic, etc 15w-40 oils will handle this situation perfect... Diesel engines that cost 3 times as much as your car run conventional oil HDEO 15w-40, and the turbo/boost would make you cry.. that's not even taking into account the 3/4-1 ton trucks with diesel engines running the same oil, my Cummins Turbo Diesel ran 20 PSI boost, intercooler etc... ran long OCI's on HDEO conventional oils.
 
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
From VW.com

The right motor oil that meets VW standards:

* Helps keep your engine clean.
* Helps your engine "turn over" more easily.
* Provides optimal protection under more extreme driving conditions.
* Coats and lubricates vital engine components helping reduce friction and increase horsepower.
* Helps improve fuel economy by 5% or more.*
* Allows engine parts to move more freely and helps reduce heat and overall wear.
* Remains more stable at higher temperatures instead of beginning to break down early.

I would think any high quality synthetic oil would meet these qualifications.


I would agree that most high quality synthetics would meet those qualifications. However, VW/Audi don't rely on qualifications. They rely on specifications. Check the manual. I almost guarantee that there will be some proprietary VW spec required for oil. The most common oils that meet the varying VW specs are GC and M1 0w-40, if I recall correctly. I believe the specs are met by PU, in their European grades only, which are very hard to find.

From a warranty perspective, running vanilla PU or M1 is as contraindicated as would be running old SB from the dollar store. That's not to say that those wouldn't be better choices than the dollar store stuff, but if one doesn't meet the specifications under warranty, that's at one's own peril.

In a more general sense, sure, synthetic might be "better" in a turbo engine. However, there is a lot of agricultural equipment out there running eight to twelve hours a day at full boost using HDEO 15w-40. For my Audi turbo, I've gone on highway runs and changed the oil immediately thereafter, spilling on my hands without burning them.

As for synthetics being better in the short term (i.e. short OCIs) than conventionals, I'm not convinced. For that to be true, the engine would have to be facing some rather peculiar circumstances.
 
I highly doubt that you got the VW 502.00 approved Pennzoil Ultra. You should stick to approved oils like GC and M1 0w40.

I hope that at least you used the 5w40 PU and not the 5w30 and 10w30 because those are energy conserving oils.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.

You never want to breakin a new head with synthetic...i wouldnt be suprised if you start to burn oil.
Eplain the statement. Why would you not want to break is a new cyl head with syn oil?
 
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.
Could you explain the statement?
 
A short OCI is a good idea when the head has been yanked.
Also, a coolant system flush may be a good idea.
Particulate matter, oil in coolant, and coolant in oil get all over where it shouldn't be.
200 is a little too short, and the PU was waste.
Change it and the filter at 1000. PU is fine for normal use.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.
Could you explain the statement?


From what I understand, turbochargers run very hot. Turbocharged engines tend to be harder on oil than a naturally aspirated engine. I've heard that the turbo can be ruined by using conventional oil; If there is a lot of turbo use(which there is).
The turbo was also rebuilt while the head was out.

So why should I be a cheapskate and risk ruining the turbo for 15 dollars?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
A short OCI is a good idea when the head has been yanked.
Also, a coolant system flush may be a good idea.
Particulate matter, oil in coolant, and coolant in oil get all over where it shouldn't be.
200 is a little too short, and the PU was waste.
Change it and the filter at 1000. PU is fine for normal use.


The coolant was completely drained from the radiator, turbo, intercooler, oil cooler. The proper G12 coolant was put in there. The car has 59,000 miles. Do you think I should drain it again?

I think I'll change the oil at 1000 miles. Then do another two 1000 mile oil changes with rotella t6.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bkbenjy
This is a Turbo engine. I will only put high quality synthetics in it. I will not put cheap dino into it to save 15 dollars. I do not want any more headaches with the car.



I agree on the Synthetic decision, but not until you do your short OCI's. For the first 3k miles, PYB will serve you well. During this 'break-in' you won't be overly stressing the engine....nor will you be heating it up too high.

200 miles change
1000 miles change
2000 miles change
3000 miles change

Then go to synthetics.....
 
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