New commercial Mower What oil?

[RWEST]

Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: Travis1963
.... I suck at acronyms, what is RTS?


There's several variants of that one.

I believe RTS is Rotella-T Synthetic (a Shell product) or you might see SRT; Shell Rotella-T.

Joel

Whatever it's known by, it's good stuff. We've been using the CI-4+ 5-40 synthetic in our pre'07 diesel equipment for years. Consistently excellent used oil analysis..

My brothers also swear by it in their GoldWing motorcycles, too - definitely a universal lubricant!!

I prefer the 10w30 conventional for the gas powered stuff that might get used in cold weather, or their straight 30 for lawnmowers, tillers and other warm-weather only stuff. But, that's just me..

 

[Bebop367]

Very nice mower.
If it were mind I would run Rotella CJ4 10w30.
It has a HTHS of 3.5 + (I sent a question to Shell sometime back)
cTs @ 100°C is approx. 12.1
I run it in all my air cooled engines including a 25HP Kolher.

 

[Travis1963]

Okay, great info. Now, can I go straight to synthetic after my 10 hour break in? Which is right now. I just hit 10 hours tonight on my yard. I ask because I have read on another site where they mentioned running dino for a little while for rings to seat. Then go syn. I am changing oil in the morning before heading out so any comments I sure could use 'em. Thanks for all the help. I have already gone to PP and Wix on all 5 of my vehicles based on the advice I got on the car forum.

 

[dwendt44]

You can do that either way.
Most of use that use syntetic would change to syn. at the 5 hour time frame.
Some would wait for another 5-10 hours and then go to synthetic.
Which ever make you feel the best.

 

[Travis1963]

Well, I went with Mobil 1 10w40 Synthetic Motorcycle Racing Oil after break in. I hope this will be a good choice long term. I do leaf clean up down to 35 to 40 degrees, and regularly cut all day into the upper 90's.

 

[daman]

Good choice, M1's MC oil is loaded with anti-wear additives,and more shear stable,should serve you well.

how many Hr's you running it out??

 

[Travis1963]

This is my first time with syn. in my comm. mower. I over maintain, so probably 50 hours.

 

[daman]

That would be a good starting point to see how the equipment "likes it" then could go longer,it should do 100 easily.

 

[Travis1963]

Book says 100, but I have a hard time going that long. I like knowing my motor is clean. I know it is a little overkill, but if I have the $$ and dispose properly, I'll change often.

 

[daman]

If thats what you want to do,i run amsoil ACD in my(was new in '05)crafsman 18.5 briggs to 100hrs and oil is still golden.

 

[Bror Jace]

Travis1963, like a few others here, I would use an HDEO like Pennzoil Long Life, Chevron Delo 400, Shell Rotella or Mobil 1 Delvac. Synthetics not necessary in this application and I think you're better off changing the oil more often.

Change oil and filter once per week (every 40 hours). With a conventional oil bought in bulk, you can afford to do this.

I'd start with 10w30 and check the level each morning. If you notice significant consumption and have to top off each and every day, I'd switch to a 15w40. You are in Tennessee, after all

Filters? I would use Purolator as they are pretty decent and cheaper than WIX ... and it goes along with my weekly change schedule as I'd change the filter along with the oil.

Don't forget to service the air filter ... even twice as much as recommended in the manual. If it has a foam element that requires re-oiling, use chainsaw bar & chain oil due to higher amounts of tack additives which are great at trapping dirt.

Grease all zerks at least weekly, too.

Want to go over board? Use MMO or Lucas UCL in the gas at half the recommended treat rate every other day. Oil consumption will be less and I'd expect ring and intake valve wear to be reduced as well.

 

[Travis1963]

Well, I am still knew to this advanced oil knowledge that I am learning here. As I read more and realize comments like your last one are true and regularly achieved, I will probably start extending all my OCI's.

 

[daman]

I can tell you 40 or 50 hrs is a waste,i used to do that too until i started cutting open my filters and seen how clean they were and how good the oil looked yet, with a quality oil/filter 100 hrs is no problem after break in.

 

[Travis1963]

Assuming all this is true; if oil #1 is the best syn. $$ can buy, with the best protection, and oil #2 is dino and very good in its own right, if I changed my oil, at say 50 hours, would my lubrication and protection be better by using the syn? I would be changing my oil 50 hours earlier than the manual says. I know I might not be getting my moneys worth out of the syn, but my engine would be getting the best protection available, for those 50 hours, right? I have always wanted others opinions on this question. Thanks, Travis.

 

[Bror Jace]

"I can tell you 40 or 50 hours is a waste. I used to do that too until I started cutting open my filters and seen how clean they were and how good the oil looked yet. With a quality oil/filter 100 hrs is no problem after break in."

Maybe ... seeing as how this machine has a filter. But these things run hot ... especially in Tennessee in the summer ... and that's before grass cuttings accumulate in the cooling fins, etc ...

When I used to take care of my Dad's OPE, I don't think I would go over 25 hours with anything ... 'cept his liquid-cooled Honda Tractor (nearly the only unit with a filter).

So, I would say use 40 or so hours for the first few intervals. Then maybe add a day each interval until you start to see oil consumption. That shows me the oil is either sheared or diluted down ... or both.

 

[Travis1963]

I guess I can just do a used oil analysis on my mower a couple of times to see whats going on.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace

Maybe ... seeing as how this machine has a filter. But these things run hot ... especially in Tennessee in the summer ... and that's before grass cuttings accumulate in the cooling fins, etc ...

yea they run hot no matter where you live,thats why i run a quality synthetic and filter out to 100hrs and never a issue,heck even at 100hrs the oil/filter looks good,i thought
about 150 but just want to see how 100 going to work for a few more seasons.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Travis1963
I guess I can just do a used oil analysis on my mower a couple of times to see whats going on.

wouldn't bother,use that 30 bucks and buy some good synthetics and do your 50-75 hrs OCI.

you'll be surprised how fast your going to rack up 50hrs! doesn't take long...

 

[pickled]

Synthetic for taking the heat and go to the 100 hours recommended in your manual. As long as you aren't dumping extreme amounts of gasoline in your oil via a maladjusted carb or plugged air filter (which you will see as a gradual rise if you check your oil level consistently), or your air box gets jacked up letting dirt in you will be G O L D E N!

 

[Travis1963]

Thanks. Like I said earlier, I went with Mobil 1 10w40 Motorcycle Racing oil and hope it will be the only one I use. As long as business is good my plan is to start with 75 hours on oil and my air filter will be changed very often. Cutting grass is my second job, and with that and my 2 acres I would love to see how long this mower will last. I know this is a little over the top but my mowers get washed just as often as my cars, weekly. Probably a cap full of MMO once in a while too. As long as I did not buy a lemon I think 3000 hours is reachable maybe more.