New Car: Here's my oil plan

[JOD]

Does this car spec 5W20 and not 0W20?

I think with your plan, the engine will outlast the chassis and the stuff surrounding it--and you aren't planning on keeping it for 500K miles anyway, so it seems like a good plan.

At that price for the M1/Valvoline combo, the only adjustment I'd make to the plan would be to buy a few oil changes just to have on hand, so you don't need to worry about it.

I'd also suggest installing a filter minder for your air filter, so you aren't changing it unnecessarily. The maintenance minder can't account for the quality of air entering your intake. I've been pretty amazed at just how long an air filter can last and still provide adequate flow.

 

[sangyup81]

Please use the 40% AAP discount codes if you are going to use M1 or K&N filters. Better value that would meet your OCI needs would be Purolator Pure One and Fram Extended Guard (Extended not Extra, very important!)

 

[Audi Junkie]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Meh, I like timed intervals of 4, 6 or 12 months.


I don't understand this--at all...

Does is really matter how long the oil is in the sump? This is even sillier than basing OCI on mileage alone or the color of the oil.

The OLM takes into account all of the variables that matter, as long as you're using an approved lubricant, keeping the oil level in it's proper range, you car is mechanically sound and it's not modified.

I don't mean to pick on you specifically--lots of people make silly comments regarding OLM's. What is the rationale to base OCI on either time or mileage versus an OLM that accounts for the variables which actually impact the life of the lubricant?



Firstly, you didn't say exactly what was wrong with it, other than being "silly".

Secondly, it's just blanket advise that happens to work well for both short trip driving as well as long highway drivers.

Assuming he uses the car every day, is it several short trips, that is hard on the oil or is it long highway trips, that are not in itself hard on the oil, but consuming fuel does affect the oil condition negatively.

So I'll ask in return, how are timed intervals worse than miles-based intervals? In my analysis, time makes a lot more sense. Of course following the OLM is one approach, but it didn't appeal to me at all, being just a footnote when I decided to change.

I change visc for seasons, and also am aware that the cold-cranking ability of the oil diminishes in duty. So, why would I want to go into deep winter with 90% worn out oil...just to have to get on the ground in Jan or Feb to change it just because the OLM says so? That's a different kind of madness, imo.

I'm not sure the OLM is ideal anyway. It's a maximum oci. Remember too, the friction modifiers wear out. A cheap oil change brings back a better engine feel, for sure.

 

[FZ1]

+1.

 

[rclint]

I also drop my head while reading parts of the thread.. Honda recommends on my 02 accord a filter change ever other oil change, using the OEM filter that gets around 20K out of a filter.. A pureone, M1, Fram EG ( I have been running fram the last couple OCI's very happy with them top tier filter) these will hold up easily to 15-20 K, the mid range of filter such as the purolator white can will hold up 10k-15k with no problems.. as a matter of fact if I were running by the oil life monitor I would either pick a mid or top tier filter as mentioned in my post, and run it out with no worries.. Either of these filters should be able to handle your OCI length easy..

As to oil there are some good prospects as to using the same oil each time. Some of these are the oil needs some amount of time to acclimate (get used to) the engine, and lay down it's additive package etc.. one it does this you don't get the same period of time for the oils needs to acclimate itself to the engine when doing an oil change.. BUT this was based off a few years ago research, and reading.. now it seems the newer oils GF 4, GF 5 have it in the specs as to the mix-ability with other oils of the same spec. Also if you pick one oil to use, and no other oil you don't have to wonder if this or that is the best oil all the time, worry over $5 being saved.. Then you have the did I put the best or cheapest oil in, there are plenty of up sides to using only one oil.. but I myself pick up sale deals etc..

I would not overlook castrol edge, and outstanding oil, and top tier from my use it's right on par with M1 EP, but don't think you need an extended drain oil, or even a synthetic unless your manual states so.. The OLM is set up to protect your engine on the oil specified in the owners manual, and I very seriously doubt your going to gain any advantage of using a synthetic if (and I'm pretty sure) your owners manual specs a conventional oil.

Don't forget to make 100% you get the correct oil specified for your car, that should be the first thing you look at when purchasing oil, pick the correct grade, spec, etc.. then it's your choice after that.. if you are worried about oil filters use the OEM filter.. after all they make the car, engine, and oil filter, it will go the distance if your worried about that... you don't need top tier expensive extended drain filters, synthetic/extended drain oils to use the OLM in your car.. conventional, mid grade/tier oil filters, OEM oil filter, and your OLM should be all you need.. (reminder on this part is if this is what is specified for your engine)

 

[mikiee]

Well, I'm going to be the contrarian here. You mention about "making a real salary" so you're obviously not rolling in dough right now. With your short trips and slow driving I would be concerned with oil contamination regardless whether I was running dino or syn. If it was me, I would use a quality 5W-20 dino (if thats what Honda recs.) and change it every 5000 miles. That gets the contamination out of the engine quicker and saves you money. Of course if you can get good deals on syn. go with that, but I'd still like the 5000 changes. Remember, what you are describing is severe service.

 

[virginoil]

I would stick with the same brand and purchase when on sale.

I spent too much looking for the holy grail, when it it was quite simple.

Select a viscosity and brand that works and stick with adjust OCI according to extreme driving conditions.

 

[Superbuick96]

Originally Posted By: Ram01
Good plan but a lackluster oil brand. use quakerstate or Pennzoil

Gimme a break

 

[Oldwolf]

Choose your synthetic oil and filter, then stock up when on sale. That way you don't have to worry about buying the brands that are on sale when you need them. I always have two or more oil changes worth of supplies on my shelf (same brands).

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: virginoil

I would stick with the same brand and purchase when on sale.

I spent too much looking for the holy grail, when it it was quite simple.

Select a viscosity and brand that works and stick with adjust OCI according to extreme driving conditions.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: Oldwolf
Choose your synthetic oil and filter, then stock up when on sale. That way you don't have to worry about buying the brands that are on sale when you need them. I always have two or more oil changes worth of supplies on my shelf (same brands).


even more good advise

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie


Firstly, you didn't say exactly what was wrong with it, other than being "silly".


Oil isn't going to go bad just sitting in the sump--so a time based interval seems silly to me in light of better information.

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Secondly, it's just blanket advise that happens to work well for both short trip driving as well as long highway drivers.


Not really. If someone drive his car twice a week for 40 miles at a time, or every day making a bunch of shorts trips, should they both be changing their oil at the same time? Under your plan, they would be. That, to me, is silly.



Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Assuming he uses the car every day, is it several short trips, that is hard on the oil or is it long highway trips, that are not in itself hard on the oil, but consuming fuel does affect the oil condition negatively.


THAT'S THE WHOLE POINT OF THE OLM?? I does not treat all miles the same. It's not a mileage countdown timer. It's taking into account all of the external variables (oil temps, number of engine revolutions, engine load) which make short trips harder on the oil.

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
So I'll ask in return, how are timed intervals worse than miles-based intervals? In my analysis, time makes a lot more sense. Of course following the OLM is one approach, but it didn't appeal to me at all, being just a footnote when I decided to change.


See my example above. I understand using time as a proxy for shorter trips, but some people drive infrequently, and for longer distances when they do drive (this sums up the driving habits of a lot of bike commuters I know).



Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I change visc for seasons, and also am aware that the cold-cranking ability of the oil diminishes in duty. So, why would I want to go into deep winter with 90% worn out oil...just to have to get on the ground in Jan or Feb to change it just because the OLM says so? That's a different kind of madness, imo.


The OP's car does't call for a change is viscosity, since it's using a light oil anyway.

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I'm not sure the OLM is ideal anyway. It's a maximum oci. Remember too, the friction modifiers wear out.


It's not a "maximum OCI". It's designed to leave roughly twice the amount of necessary additive for the recommended oil (at least all of the OLM's I've seen are programmed that way). Can you show me a single UOA in a sound, unmodified engine where the oil didn't contain enough additive, or wasn't suitable for use, following the OLM? Just one?? Sure, additives wear out. I've yet to seem them wear out over the course of a OLM-suggested interval--have you??


Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
A cheap oil change brings back a better engine feel, for sure.


Good god....so in the end, we're left with the placebo effect of a "smooth engine" after an oil change and the "cheap insurance" line of Jiffy Lube commercial? It's not "cheap insurance", it's unnecessary and wasteful.

Again, I have yet to see any rational reason to NOT follow the OLM.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Light users change less often and heavy users change more often, not at the same time.

Let me see...

Times is better than miles as a marker, agreed?

I listed quite a few reasons that time is better than an OLM, but you ignored that. No fresh oil for winter, no visc change and doing an oil change in the middle of winter...."silly" you say?

If you're against changing more often than the OLM, why not just say so and leave it at that? I can see obvious benefits to NOT waiting for the OLM, but they are wasted on you, so I won't bother...

 

[electrolover]

the ol 3 month 3 thou miles is tried and true.
i go by witch ever comes first.

if another fellow wants to go 1 year or 12k more power to him

if all else fells the manufacturer spec will never let you down

cant we all just get along???

 

[Artem]

I have to agree with JOD. Auto manufacturers wouldn't purposely SCREW themselves in the rear end by setting the OCI's too long that the oil wears out and more wear begins to take place.

I know that all these Gov requirements and regulations help push the oil further for the sake of being "green" but seeing as today's cleaner running engines aren't THAT hard on oil, it shouldn't be a problem.

Seeing as pretty much every brand of oil is @ or near "semi-synth" levels, i feel the oil should be strong enough to handle longer drain intervals.

I use Top Tier synthetic oils for my "peace of mind" when following the OLM on my 2007 Civic (ave 6-8k)
but currently doing 10k OCI's as per a UOA.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Light users change less often and heavy users change more often, not at the same time.

Let me see...

Times is better than miles as a marker, agreed?


No, not agreed. I'd answer "it depends", or "neither". Here's a very real scenario, describing the driving habits of two friends:

1. 7,000 miles a year

2. 7,000 miles a year

So, should they both be changing their oil once a year, twice a year?

You really don't have enough info to make a suggestion, based on miles, or time--do you? I can tell you that driver A is fine with a once a year change (and could probably go longer), and driver B really shouldn't go any longer than 6 months. Which goes to my point of using the OLM, since it takes into account driving habits, not arbitrary markers like time.

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I listed quite a few reasons that time is better than an OLM, but you ignored that. No fresh oil for winter, no visc change and doing an oil change in the middle of winter...."silly" you say?

If you're against changing more often than the OLM, why not just say so and leave it at that? I can see obvious benefits to NOT waiting for the OLM, but they are wasted on you, so I won't bother...


I didn't ignore them--they aren't relevant. All of the cars of which I'm aware using an OLM suggest a viscosity which is suitable for year-round use. For a Honda such as the OP's spec'ing 5W20, there's no need to switch to a lighter oil (Ford and GM, 2 of the other companies using OLM's also do not specify a temperature-dependent grade). As far as "fresh oil" for the winter, if the oil is suitable for use, it's suitable for use. If you want to change it early because you can't change your oil in inclement weather--then sure, that makes sense....but let's not pretend that adding "fresh oil" is beneficial to your engine if the oil in the sump is still suitable for use.

I'm still waiting to see these "obvious benefits" of which you speak... So far you're hanging your hat on "smoother sound" and "cheap insurance". I don't buy either one. Sorry.

 

[sparky123]

First off, good choice on the car. I think that is a well-engineered/thought out car. Much better than Civic IMO. I think you could put in Olive oil (in the correct grade of course, Extra Virgin) and the engine will outlast the engine warranty. ( I Jest...) If it was me, I personally would not take the FF past 5K. Then I would do one more or two oil changes w/a conventional oil such as Mobil Clean 5000 say @ 5k mi or 6mo intervals. Then I'd either stay w/this formula or go w/a synthetic oil (in the correct grade of course) and do longer OCI's especially if you're following the MM. I like the idea mentioned about changing out the transmission fluid out early as well. Say 10K. Should be a super easy job, loosen/remove fill plug, then the drain plug. Add the correct Honda gear oil. Hope you enjoy your new car!

 

[Eddie]

Just miraculous that we have so many experts (self apppointed) to answer our questions