New brakes/rotors for 2001 taurus

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself

I put a super thin layer of brake grease on both the hub and rotor hat mount areas to prevent rust build up in our climate.

Anyone else do this and, is this safe??


Considering how many replacement hub and bearing assemblies I've bought that came with something like brake grease already applied, I think it's safe.

 

[volk06]

Ok I have the thermoquiets bought. Centric high carbon rotors or raybestos advanced? They look like the same thing pretty much. Anyone have experience of one of the other?

 

[yonyon]

They're both good stuff. At the same price I'd want the Centric. It's a Taurus though, so unless you're very hard on your brakes either one is probably more than good enough.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: volk06
Ok I have the thermoquiets bought. Centric high carbon rotors or raybestos advanced? They look like the same thing pretty much. Anyone have experience of one of the other?

I have very little experience with Centric products, but I know premium Raybestos brake rotors resist warp.

 

[GC4lunch]

Originally Posted By: artificialist

I know premium Raybestos brake rotors resist warp.

What is incorrectly called warp is melted brake pad material deposited onto the surface of the rotor that adhered when it cooled. To say that a rotor "resists" warp makes very little sense. The primary cause of "warp" is holding your foot on the brake pedal at stop after the brakes have got very hot; it is partially a function of the composition of the brake pad chemistry, and primarily a function of the driving habits of the driver. Brands of rotors all behave essentially same in that regard.

See: The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Originally Posted By: artificialist

I know premium Raybestos brake rotors resist warp.

What is incorrectly called warp is melted brake pad material deposited onto the surface of the rotor that adhered when it cooled. To say that a rotor "resists" warp makes very little sense. The primary cause of "warp" is holding your foot on the brake pedal at stop after the brakes have got very hot; it is partially a function of the composition of the brake pad chemistry, and primarily a function of the driving habits of the driver. Brands of rotors all behave essentially same in that regard.

See: The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System


The difference between most premium rotors and economy rotors is the amount of lateral runout that you will find. Lateral runout which exceeds the OE limit (usually 0.002" for most newer cars) will eventually lead to disc thickness variation, which will cause the pedal pulsation problem.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Originally Posted By: artificialist

I know premium Raybestos brake rotors resist warp.

What is incorrectly called warp is melted brake pad material deposited onto the surface of the rotor that adhered when it cooled. To say that a rotor "resists" warp makes very little sense. The primary cause of "warp" is holding your foot on the brake pedal at stop after the brakes have got very hot; it is partially a function of the composition of the brake pad chemistry, and primarily a function of the driving habits of the driver. Brands of rotors all behave essentially same in that regard.

See: The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System



It's so nice to see that people here are quoting my man at Stoptech. I was squawking years ago about this and routinely got flak about it.

Carroll Smith has likely forgot more than most will ever know about brakes!

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
NAPA Adaptive One pads and NAPA Ultra Premium rotors. Bleed the brakes when you're done to get some fresh fluid in there. Also don't forget to lube the slides.


These pads are without a doubt one of the BEST formulas for any car they fit. Extremely good pedal feel and very long life.

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
NAPA Adaptive One pads and NAPA Ultra Premium rotors. Bleed the brakes when you're done to get some fresh fluid in there. Also don't forget to lube the slides.


These pads are without a doubt one of the BEST formulas for any car they fit. Extremely good pedal feel and very long life.

I had a set of Adapti8ve Ones on my Accord and the rotors warped/pads deposited/whatever you want to call it within 10k miles. Not a fan. The Hawk HPS pads I replaced them with are much better.

 

[volk06]

Well this is what I bought. Wagner Thermoquiet semi-metallic brake pads and centric high carbon rotors. Didnt want ceramics since this care doesnt need them, OEM was semi metallic. I had some gift cards so I got everything for $130.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Originally Posted By: artificialist

I know premium Raybestos brake rotors resist warp.

What is incorrectly called warp is melted brake pad material deposited onto the surface of the rotor that adhered when it cooled. To say that a rotor "resists" warp makes very little sense. The primary cause of "warp" is holding your foot on the brake pedal at stop after the brakes have got very hot; it is partially a function of the composition of the brake pad chemistry, and primarily a function of the driving habits of the driver. Brands of rotors all behave essentially same in that regard.

See: The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System


The difference between most premium rotors and economy rotors is the amount of lateral runout that you will find. Lateral runout which exceeds the OE limit (usually 0.002" for most newer cars) will eventually lead to disc thickness variation, which will cause the pedal pulsation problem.


Yeah, you two should try telling that to my idiot boss... One day he tossed a nearly new set of Italian made Brembo rotors in the scrap bin and replaced them with Chinese Bosch because they were "warped". I tried to give him the story and he would have nothing of it. Naturally we don't have the equipment for me to illustrate this phenomenon to him. Of course he still lives in the 70's or whatever era where oil shouldn't DARE go past 3k miles, rotors warp and any of a number of outdated automotive adages so I'm sure it wouldn't matter if I did.






Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
NAPA Adaptive One pads and NAPA Ultra Premium rotors. Bleed the brakes when you're done to get some fresh fluid in there. Also don't forget to lube the slides.


These pads are without a doubt one of the BEST formulas for any car they fit. Extremely good pedal feel and very long life.


I agree. These are going on all my side jobs.

 

[GC4lunch]

Originally Posted By: volk06
Well this is what I bought. Wagner Thermoquiet semi-metallic brake pads and centric high carbon rotors. Didnt want ceramics since this care doesnt need them,

"Ceramic" is much more a marketing term than a descriptive term, anyway. There is no standard for what composition a pad has to have to be called ceramic, so if the workers on the assembly line drink their coffee out of ceramic mugs when they are on break, then "ceramic" the pads will be.

 

[GC4lunch]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
The difference between most premium rotors and economy rotors is the amount of lateral runout that you will find. Lateral runout which exceeds the OE limit (usually 0.002" for most newer cars) will eventually lead to disc thickness variation, which will cause the pedal pulsation problem.

Think about that: if there is excessive run-out in the new rotor, then you should feel pulsation right after the rotor is installed. To the extent that the pads wear down the disk (the implied causation of the disk thickness variation), the pads act like a crude lathe, and the wear would be concentrated on the high points and less on the low points, so -- unlike brake "warp" -- pulsation due to that cause should decrease as wear increases.

Carroll Smith, whose article I quoted above, is among the acknowledged experts on the subject of brakes. He has designed high performance braking systems, and he is one of the fiounders of the Centric-StopTech-PowerSlot group that is among the most respected suppliers of rotors and pads in the world. Carroll Smith knows brakes, and Carroll Smith says that brake "warp" almost always is due to uneven deposit of pad material on the rotor.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The difference between most premium rotors and economy rotors is the amount of lateral runout that you will find. Lateral runout which exceeds the OE limit (usually 0.002" for most newer cars) will eventually lead to disc thickness variation, which will cause the pedal pulsation problem.

Think about that: if there is excessive run-out in the new rotor, then you should feel pulsation right after the rotor is installed. To the extent that the pads wear down the disk (the implied causation of the disk thickness variation), the pads act like a crude lathe, and the wear would be concentrated on the high points and less on the low points, so -- unlike brake "warp" -- pulsation due to that cause should decrease as wear increases.

Carroll Smith, whose article I quoted above, is among the acknowledged experts on the subject of brakes. He has designed high performance braking systems, and he is one of the fiounders of the Centric-StopTech-PowerSlot group that is among the most respected suppliers of rotors and pads in the world. Carroll Smith knows brakes, and Carroll Smith says that brake "warp" almost always is due to uneven deposit of pad material on the rotor.


From my research on the topic, thelateral runout in a new rotor generally isn't enough to cause a pedal pulsation you can feel, but it eventually leads to pedal pulsation due to thickness variation.

When the pads act like a "crude lathe," as you called it, they grind down portions of the rotor causing thickness variation. The thickness differences are what cause the pedal pulsation.

I'm not discounting that pad deposits can cause pulsation, I'm just pointing out that lateral runout in rotors or hubs is another cause.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
NAPA Adaptive One pads and NAPA Ultra Premium rotors. Bleed the brakes when you're done to get some fresh fluid in there. Also don't forget to lube the slides.


These pads are without a doubt one of the BEST formulas for any car they fit. Extremely good pedal feel and very long life.

I had a set of Adapti8ve Ones on my Accord and the rotors warped/pads deposited/whatever you want to call it within 10k miles. Not a fan. The Hawk HPS pads I replaced them with are much better.


Sorry to hear of your poor experience. I have personally installed these on everything from a 3500 Savana van to my daughters Ford Edge. Every single set has given (or is still giving!) extremely long life and great pedal feel, without all the squeal that Hawks are famous for.

 

[volk06]

In the box of thermoquiets there a few small metal peices, im assuming are the shims. Do these need to be installed? Some videos don't show them being installed, if they do need to be installed how do they get installed?

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I put a super thin layer of brake grease on both the hub and rotor hat mount areas to prevent rust build up in our climate.

Anyone else do this and, is this safe??

I use an antiseize compound, which I believe is better suited for the job. EIther way is better than nothing.