Hi, I have a few question about a new cub cadet LT1018 I just bought yesterday. I has a 18.5 HP B&S INTEC ELS OHV Engine. Well my first question is it came without oil in the engine but there was a bottle of Lawnmower 30wt. that came with it should I use this oil or should I use another oil in this engine for breake-in. My dad told me to use a good name brane 30wt. oil and start and run the engine at full throttle for five minutes, shut it down and change the oil. He said that after that I should start the engine and run it for 45 minutes with no load at 1,000 RPMS and change the oil again. And continue this process but increase the speed 500 RPMS each time it gets to full throttle or 3,500 RPMS. He said after that run the engine five hour normal or medium hard and change the oil and it would be break-in fully. Should I follow his insructional or do you have any other suggestines. Also what brand and wieght of oil do you use.
New B&S engine breake-in
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Also I forgot to ask if any of you guys have found oil filters that will replace the expansive B&S ELS oil filter. I thought I read a post here somewhere here that someone wrote that he was using a Mototcraft FL-400S which would be Fram 3600 or ST 3600 filter.
JR: I have a B&S V-twin, 18.5 hp, about 4 years old. I have successfully used several $3 FL-400S filters, am currenty trying a $6 Wix 51516 with the new semi-synth T03 media. If your engine is the same standard configuration/mounted the same as mine, it will fit fine, just sticks out nearly to the edge of my engine cover. I get so much dust on it every time I run it that worrying about looks would be ludicrous. I use Delvac 1300 15-40 cuz it's often 90+ here. You might want to look at a major brand diesel 10-30 or straight 30 (Delvac, Delo, Rotella) as I doubt it gets hugely hot up there.
Regarding engine break-in: The owners manual and I disagree. (Yes, I'm a fanatic
) They say to take a new, green, virgin, stone-cold engine, and run the pi** out of..excuse me, run it to FULL throttle from minute one, and put a FULL load on it as soon as the engine will take this without dying!
Sounds abusive to me, so FWIW, I did gentle, low speed putzing around the subdivision at lower engine speeds for about a short hour (no blades running), said hi to all my neighbors, and changed out the filter and the metal flake oil. (Use a clean catch pan, and look at the oil in the sun. It will positively sparkle from new wear particles). I then did oil/filter changes at increasing intervals (maybe 3 and 8 hrs, now about every 18-20 with my huge dust). I ran it at a medium speed/one gear lower for my first slow cut, and progressively stepped up the speed to full over the next two 3 hour runs. I always warm it up over several minutes with increasing speed/load. BTW, I burn virtually NO oil, where the manual says to expect one ounce per hour.
Another edit: Running long periods with the blades disengaged may tend to polish up/burn a spot on your blade drive belt. If you drive around like I did, reach under and slip the blade drive belt off for the time being. Good luck.
[ August 26, 2004, 11:27 PM: Message edited by: olddognewtrks ]
Regarding engine break-in: The owners manual and I disagree. (Yes, I'm a fanatic
Another edit: Running long periods with the blades disengaged may tend to polish up/burn a spot on your blade drive belt. If you drive around like I did, reach under and slip the blade drive belt off for the time being. Good luck.
[ August 26, 2004, 11:27 PM: Message edited by: olddognewtrks ]
That break in procedure of 'running the Pi$$ out of it" is more likely for proper ring seal under an anticipated load that the mower would see with normal use. It may sound barbaric, but I am willing to bet it is recommended for a reason.
As for the break in oil, I would change it at one hour, after the 'barbaric' break in, then again at 5 hours. Filter at both times.
As for the break in oil, I would change it at one hour, after the 'barbaric' break in, then again at 5 hours. Filter at both times.
"Briggs type" 3/4" X 16 threads 8-11 PSI Bypass Gasket 2.734"OD 2.430"ID 0.226" thick
Length" Wix Purolator Hastings Fram Kohler B&S Baldwin JD TEC MotorCraft AC
2.3" 57035 NA LF503 NA 2805001 492932 B7165 ? 36563 NA NA?
2.7" 51056 L35310 LF302 PH8172 1205001 492056 B1410 AM125424 36262 NA PF2210
3.4" 51348 L10241 LF157 PH7575 5205002 491056 BT223 AM101207 ? FL793 PF53
4.8" 51516 L20195 LF134 PH3600 NA NA B243 ? ? FL400A PFL400A
Breaking it in without any load is a good way to glaze the cylinders which will lead to oil burning. Never run a new engine at only 1,000 rpm's....you need to circulate the oil. Fill it up with oil and go mow your grass. Change oil and filter after 5 hours and you're good to go.
Brett said just what I was thinking ans I read the post.
Fire the thing up and cut the grass. After a few hours change the oil and filter if it has one and it should be good for the rest of the season.
Fire the thing up and cut the grass. After a few hours change the oil and filter if it has one and it should be good for the rest of the season.
I have the same 18.5 B&S engine and just did the first oil change after the initial 5 hours. The oil was very very clean. I used a castrol syntec 10-30 synthetic (they were out of mobil 1). I plan on changing it again in another 5-10 hours and use Mobil 1 10-30. Thanks for the oil filter replacement options, the B&S filter is $10!!!
Chevy Guy, LOOK!
Cool! The FL400A will work on a B&S motor. Our new mower will get one this fall before if gets put away for the season.
I bought a 16 hp B & S in a John Deere lawn tractor back in 1981. Castrol GTX motor oil changed once a month during mowing season. I mowed approximately 1 1/2 acres every week with this set up. Divorced in 1990. Ex wife still running the same mower with just several belt replacements over the years.
On a side note for break in i ran the motor for 30-45 min. at full throttle with a light load, then changed the oil. Mowed the yard with it, approximately 2-2 1/2 hours, then changed the oil again. After that changed it every month.
I rattled on saying all that to make the point i dont think my experience is unusal. Those Briggs motors are nearly indestructable as long as they have oil in them.
On a side note for break in i ran the motor for 30-45 min. at full throttle with a light load, then changed the oil. Mowed the yard with it, approximately 2-2 1/2 hours, then changed the oil again. After that changed it every month.
I rattled on saying all that to make the point i dont think my experience is unusal. Those Briggs motors are nearly indestructable as long as they have oil in them.
Thank you Bill for posting the filter cross-reference. I just bought a Cub LT1018 with this same Briggs motor and was surprised at the cost of a Briggs-branded oil filter. I picked up a Purolator last night to have on hand for the next oil change!
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