New Article of the Month by Dr. Haas

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A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212 F engine.

Wrong.
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They take a mineral based oil and add VI improvers so that it does not thin as much when it gets hotter. Now instead of only having a thickness of 6 when hot it has a thickness of 10, just as we need.

Wrong.
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It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10.

Wrong.
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Let’s look at the make up of synthetic based oils. A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed.

Wrong.
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Oil molecules do not break down, just the additives. Generally, the synthetic oils do not have VI improvers so have less to lose.

Wrong.

There might be more.
 
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Bruce and other pro's here have stated numerous times that oils are actually blends of different base oils. They are not homogeneous as Dr. Haas seems to indicate. This influences the behavior of the finished lubricant.

He mentions ONCE in his article about wax crystal formation. What he DOESN'T mention is Pour Point Depressant (PPD) and it's affect on the lubricant. These additives completely blow the idea of oils starting as the winter rating. These improve the cold flow of the oil, VII or not. Just about ANY hydrocarbon based motor oil will use these, especially those for cold weather.

You'd have to look at a blend sheet to verify that synthetic 10w30's don't use VII. I've never seen one. I'd bet that most do use some.

If base oil doesn't degrade, then why do we test for oxidation and nitration?

And motor oil becoming "permanently" thicker due to cold weather or storage?? First I have heard of it. No rational is given for this statement.

He also states that the more viscous start up oil won't lubricate. That is completely nuts. There will still be oil in the bearings left from the previous run. There are plenty of GREASE lubricated bearings with NO pressure or flow to them, and yet they seem to last.
IF your oil has turned to gel and won't flow at all, then you have problems.

He completely ignores the effect of low start up temps on the AW additives which are the components that really stop wear...at start up or other.

This article is riddled with inaccuracies.
 
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As it turns out synthetic oils do cling to parts better as they have higher film strength than mineral oils.

Here is another one.
 
I don't see why not. I've yet to see anything that will "damage" oil in cold.

Only thing I can think of would be a moisture problem but that's not a problem in sealed containers.

Have you had any problems in the past?
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212 F engine.


Does this mean that my 25W50 will be a watery thin 25 weight this winter if we get a 19 degree day,and today now that`s it`s almost 100F it will be a thick 50 weight molasses that won`t circulate into all the nooks and crannies of my engine?
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I have to agree with you Tempest,that article makes no sense at all.
 
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