New 2013 5.0 Mustang

[BobThe]

Well, I bought it. WOOHOO!

Thanks for all of the feedback.

Since I am dancing the line between the one year mark as per Ford and the OLM, I am going to dump it early. I think I will be dumping it at 2k and using some Quaker State Ultimate Durability I am going to pick up from Menards using another rebate store credit from something else we bought some time ago and a new FL500S.

Oh and I got on it hard, but shifted before 5k several times on the way home last night. I will be doing the same today.

 

[Patman]

Congrats on the purchase!

I bought a 95 Trans Am brand new in January 1996, and found out that it had a build date of September 1994, so I was in the same position, having a new car with very old oil sitting in the sump. The car had a lot of test drive miles on it too (250) so I ended up getting the dealer to change the oil for me a couple of days after I took delivery of it. (normally I would have done it myself, but the combination of cold winter weather and knowing how much of a bear it is to remove the oil filter and drain plug on the very first oil change made me let them do it, plus I had a free oil change coupon anyhow) I just felt a lot better as I figured the engine had a lot of cold starts with immediate shutdowns, and knew there really wasn't anything special with the factory fill on GM cars, it wasn't some high moly break in oil.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: BobThe
Today I am looking to purchase a new 2013 Coyote Mustang. It's a 2013 and I am sure has been on the lot for a while now since it has a build date of 10/12. I know Ford recommends it get changed either by the OLM or at 1 year and 10k miles.

I know Honda says not to change their factory fill until the OLM says to due to some sort of break in additive they put in it. Since this new car has had the same oil in the sump for 1.5 years, do you guys think it should get changed ASAP, or still follow the OLM?


Congrats and enjoy. Is the recommended oil 5w20?

IMO ask the dealer to change it, citing the owner's manual recommendation and warranty concerns. I'm in the change it early club (except for maybe Honda)

If they won't, then take it on a nice highway run to heat it up before changing it yourself; in fact if the dealer will do it I'd make sure it's warmed up nicely for them, too.

 

[wtd]

Congratulations on the new car. I bought a new 2014 Mustang GT last August and the build date was 02/2013. I changed the factory fill oil at about 4,600 miles in early March 2014 so the oil was a little over a year old. OLM was at 43%. I used 5W-20 Motorcraft and a Motorcraft FL500s filter.

Wayne

 

[JustinH]

need pics for sure!

 

[BobThe]

Here is a picture of it.

Anyway, I changed the oil with Quaker State Ultimate Durability and a FL500S filter and it was noisy. There was a lot of ticking going on. Nothing much at cold idle, but it would be loud after a drive. It sounded like it was coming mostly from the passengers side. I had read that others that had changed it early were getting ticking noises. I also read of others that had changed the FF to a synthetic 5W-20 were having a lot of ticking noises. One post I read said that his car had quieted down by switching to Motorcraft semi-syn 5W-20, so that is what I did this past weekend (and using another FL500S) and it now sounds great. Motorcraft 5w-20 seems to have a good reputation here so I think I will continue to use it in the Coyote.

 

[NMP]

Originally Posted By: virginoil
Another new car without an OEM owners manual.

Just ask the dealer to provide you with an owners manual.

Read it, absorb it, understand it and then apply it.



You understand that if people actually did this 80% of BITOG postings would go away? (Not referring to the OP).

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: BobThe
Here is a picture of it.

Anyway, I changed the oil with Quaker State Ultimate Durability and a FL500S filter and it was noisy. There was a lot of ticking going on. Nothing much at cold idle, but it would be loud after a drive. It sounded like it was coming mostly from the passengers side. I had read that others that had changed it early were getting ticking noises. I also read of others that had changed the FF to a synthetic 5W-20 were having a lot of ticking noises. One post I read said that his car had quieted down by switching to Motorcraft semi-syn 5W-20, so that is what I did this past weekend (and using another FL500S) and it now sounds great. Motorcraft 5w-20 seems to have a good reputation here so I think I will continue to use it in the Coyote.


So even the Motorcraft FULL synthetic 5W-20, specifically, caused this noise in the Coyotes as well as other brands?

BTW; SWEET ride!

 

[BobThe]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: BobThe
Here is a picture of it.

Anyway, I changed the oil with Quaker State Ultimate Durability and a FL500S filter and it was noisy. There was a lot of ticking going on. Nothing much at cold idle, but it would be loud after a drive. It sounded like it was coming mostly from the passengers side. I had read that others that had changed it early were getting ticking noises. I also read of others that had changed the FF to a synthetic 5W-20 were having a lot of ticking noises. One post I read said that his car had quieted down by switching to Motorcraft semi-syn 5W-20, so that is what I did this past weekend (and using another FL500S) and it now sounds great. Motorcraft 5w-20 seems to have a good reputation here so I think I will continue to use it in the Coyote.


So even the Motorcraft FULL synthetic 5W-20, specifically, caused this noise in the Coyotes as well as other brands?

BTW; SWEET ride!

I read that the semi-syn made it quieter from several posts. One of them I believe was this one.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1947311
Either way, it certainly is much quieter with the MC semi-syn. I went from FF to Quaker State Ultimate Durability and it was noisy with it which prompted my searching. And since it is Motorcraft and meets their WSS-M2945A spec, I will follow the OLM or one year from the manual and do a used oil analysis when I dump it to see how it did. I would rather run a Full Synthetic with the heat this engine makes, but we will see how it hold up with the used oil analysis when the OLM says to dump it. I will probably do a used oil analysis without a change in the fall just to see how it is doing.

 

[aquariuscsm]

SWEET car!! They are a total blast to drive!! And they're really comfortable too,excellent ergonomics and well engineered. I'd stick with the Motorcraft blend since it made your engine quiet and smooth. Imo,a noisy engine just can't be a good thing,plus the MC oil is cheap via Walmart 5 quart jug,as well as the MC filters. I only wish Walmart carried all OEM filters,so I wouldn't have to drive to the Nissan dealership to buy mine. I just picked one up,and they told me my car is one of the very few Nissans that still use that particular filter (the made in Japan one),and that they only keep a few on hand,so they're apparently not widely used.

 

[Riptide]

The manual does outline a break in procedure. If I recall it wasn't much other than no extended high revs over the first 1000 miles. Go download it off the internet if you have no hard copy.

If it were me out of an abundance of caution I'd probably drain that fill and replace it. Oil these days is very good stuff (near all of it) but after having just sat there for a year and a half I don't know if I'd want to drive on it much. But that's just my 2c and I don't have any science backing me up there.