Never change oil?

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Originally Posted By: otis24
One thing, I hear Valvoline MaxLife mentioned a lot. What is it about MaxLife that makes it a good choice vs other synthetics? Thicker oil perhaps?

Maxlife 10w-40 is worth a try. I've seen it slow consumption, but sometimes after the second or third OCI. It's thick and seems to have good cleaning abilities.
 
After my current OCI, I plan on using up the jug of old stock Pennzoil Ultra. I don't want to "waste" it on my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan (180k) or my 1998 Malibu (192k). Want to see if a low noack oil will make any difference. Not sure what good it will do though, as the old Ultra will be a thing of the past and the new PUP is not supposed to have the same low noack, from what I hear.

Following the Ultra, I'm not married to any brand and plan on trying anything. Next in the lineup is Maxlife for a couple of OCI's. If nothing changes the consumption, I definitely will not be using a synthetic (too costly) and will just switch to a good conventional (Pennzoil Conventional or Mobil Super 5000).
 
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Here I was feeling sheepish for going 6500 miles on Toyota bulk oil from the dealership. Just had an oil change with MC 5w30 with MC oil filter. Should be good for awhile.
 
The 0w40 that I topped off with may be helping with the consumption. A little too early to tell. 700 miles since I topped off and oil is down about 1/4th of a quart or less.

If time proves that the 40 weight is indeed helping, I will stick with a 30 wt oil and use 40 wt for topping off.
 
I have a 2005 Town & Country, 45,000 miles, and it uses 1/4 quart between changes, approximately 2,500 miles.

I have a 1997 Honda Civic, 160,000 miles, zero oil use in 4-5k mile changes.

I have 3 GM cars, no oil burning between changes.

I like the TC, but despise the oil burning.
 
While topping off with new oil replaces lost oil, there are end products in oil burning process that are most likely harmful to the engine. An oil change is needed to keep those products at a low level.
 
I was able to the pcv valve pulled relatively easy this evening. Will change it out in the morn.
While at Wal-Mart, I "discovered" Delo400LE 5w/40 synthetic. A pretty good price at just under $20. After trying a couple more oils, I may switch to Delo400 5w/40 synthetic.
 
Humbug.
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It won't be as good as a 0w-XX for the worst winter starts, but I've used 5w-XX oils for many years in comparable winters. If he can plug in his block heater in winter, no problems. If not, then one might worry about a 0w-XX.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Humbug.
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It won't be as good as a 0w-XX for the worst winter starts, but I've used 5w-XX oils for many years in comparable winters. If he can plug in his block heater in winter, no problems. If not, then one might worry about a 0w-XX.


Agreed
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I changed out the 0w20 in my truck for 5w40 in the middle of the cold snap. Did it crank a bit harder on those -25 mornings? You bet,but only slightly. Battery would be a bigger worry way before syn 5w40
 
Originally Posted By: Brent_G
I changed out the 0w20 in my truck for 5w40 in the middle of the cold snap. Did it crank a bit harder on those -25 mornings? You bet,but only slightly. Battery would be a bigger worry way before syn 5w40

My winter philosophy is very simple. Ensure the battery and charging system is in order first. If those aren't, you're doomed. Then, plug in when appropriate. At that point, running a 5w-XX works fine. One can worry about a 0w-XX after the charging system is in order and if one cannot plug in where one parks. If one can plug in and is really worried about the oil, an oil pan heater does wonders.
 
I changed the PCV valve. I am inclined to change the oil out (Pennzoil Ultra 10w30). The wife may go on a long trip this weekend. Think I will just top off. Want to see if the PCV valve makes a difference, so I will keep the other variables the same (as much as possible) and change to the Ultra when she gets back.
 
When you pulled the valve was it still lodged down in the valve cover? Was it loose? Does the valve rattle when you shake it?

Make sure you securely install the valve back down into the valve cover, ensure it gets seated all the way down and hear it snap/pop into place. When properly installed the rubber surround (of the valve) will sit about 1/8" below the valve cover lip.
 
Thanks AKA.
It seemed to be seated good, but who knows. What would be the tell-tale signs if it isn't properly seated?
 
Just remembered, i put a regular hose clamp on in place of the PITA squeeze clamp, so checking it wont be too difficult. Think i am going to make another attempt at replacing the PCV in the '05 Grand Caravan.

The valve did rattle when i shook it. There appeared to be some grime on the bottom. I replaced it anyway since I had it out.
 
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Update,
it has been about 1400 miles since I changed the oil using Pennzoil Ultra 10w30 (old formula). Changed the PCV valve as well. Not sure if it is the oil, the PCV or what, but oil consumption is down to about a half quart. I will not top off until the oil gets to the "add" mark (one quart). Will monitor to see if this is an anamoly or signs of something positive.

The bad part is that if the oil is reducing consumption, the old formula Ultra will be a thing of the past and the new PUP does not have a NOACK as low as the old. It is my unproven assumption that the lower NOACK is the difference.
 
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