Neglected cooling system. Shop flush good idea?

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The coolant and cooling system on my 86 F150 is very brown and rusty looking. In the case of a very neglected cooling system would a power flush from a shop be a good idea? I really don't have the place to do it safely either and would be worried about spillage.(Dogs frequently in garage) How much do you think it would be to have it done?
 
Flush and back flush the system with the thermostat removed and refill with 1 gallon of distilled vinegar and water. Put the thermostat back in and run the engine for about an hour before thoroughly flushing/back flushing again. If you can get hold of Mercedes-Benz citrus flush, use as directed before replacing the thermostat and refilling with a 50/50 concentration of coolant.
 
Citric scid flush would be optimal. Take it to a shop that works primarily on MB cars and they'll know what you want.
 
Do what Falcoln said. The "power flush" is just a marketing thing. The machine I saw used involved adaptors that put 2" hose into a 3/8" hose... not sure I like the idea of the stress of that level of flow on my head gaskets etc.

The acid idea will get scale out of your system... Indiana water probably has some.
 
just be prepared when it is done and (clean) that hard parts might have to be replaced down the road, but really you have no option you must maintain it! mike
 
A power flush is not just a marketing thing. We use air and water to help agitate the rust that's laying in the bottom of the watet jackets out. A drain and fill wont get that stiff out. This is harmless to any gaskets. If a gasket were to leak after a power flush that means that the mud was sealing things anyway.
 
I don't know what you are considering a "power flush"? The flush machine we use in our shops simply uses an air hose to build pressure. Basically the air hose connects to the machine, the machine has a 1'' hose connected to an adapter that sits on the radiator or reservoir (depending on the system) and uses the air to create a vacuum and suck the fluid out. It isn't powerful to say the least though, typically the pressure will build to about 20psi. Generally we can extract about a gallon and a half on the low end, depending on coolant system size and type that number will obviously fluctuate, on the high end I've seen almost four gallons extracted.

I would prefer to take the lower radiator hose off and drain that way but using the machine is quicker and creates zero mess, which in our industry is crucial. The last thing you want is a surprise EPA visit while coolant is pouring all over the floor.
 
If there are drain plugs in the block, remove them also. You'll get a better drain and flush.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: RamFan
I don't know what you are considering a "power flush"? The flush machine we use in our shops simply uses an air hose to build pressure. Basically the air hose connects to the machine, the machine has a 1'' hose connected to an adapter that sits on the radiator or reservoir (depending on the system) and uses the air to create a vacuum and suck the fluid out. It isn't powerful to say the least though, typically the pressure will build to about 20psi. Generally we can extract about a gallon and a half on the low end, depending on coolant system size and type that number will obviously fluctuate, on the high end I've seen almost four gallons extracted.

I would prefer to take the lower radiator hose off and drain that way but using the machine is quicker and creates zero mess, which in our industry is crucial. The last thing you want is a surprise EPA visit while coolant is pouring all over the floor.


Oh i was under the impression that the flush machines at shops forced and agitated the old fluid with cleaner etc. From looking online it looks like most of them are just big vacuums that suck out old and put in new. Guess there really isnt a point in doing that then.
 
Originally Posted By: swirlparanoid
Originally Posted By: RamFan
I don't know what you are considering a "power flush"? The flush machine we use in our shops simply uses an air hose to build pressure. Basically the air hose connects to the machine, the machine has a 1'' hose connected to an adapter that sits on the radiator or reservoir (depending on the system) and uses the air to create a vacuum and suck the fluid out. It isn't powerful to say the least though, typically the pressure will build to about 20psi. Generally we can extract about a gallon and a half on the low end, depending on coolant system size and type that number will obviously fluctuate, on the high end I've seen almost four gallons extracted.

I would prefer to take the lower radiator hose off and drain that way but using the machine is quicker and creates zero mess, which in our industry is crucial. The last thing you want is a surprise EPA visit while coolant is pouring all over the floor.


Oh i was under the impression that the flush machines at shops forced and agitated the old fluid with cleaner etc. From looking online it looks like most of them are just big vacuums that suck out old and put in new. Guess there really isnt a point in doing that then.


It removes the crud from it, but it can be done at home for cheaper.
 
Originally Posted By: swirlparanoid
Originally Posted By: RamFan
I don't know what you are considering a "power flush"? The flush machine we use in our shops simply uses an air hose to build pressure. Basically the air hose connects to the machine, the machine has a 1'' hose connected to an adapter that sits on the radiator or reservoir (depending on the system) and uses the air to create a vacuum and suck the fluid out. It isn't powerful to say the least though, typically the pressure will build to about 20psi. Generally we can extract about a gallon and a half on the low end, depending on coolant system size and type that number will obviously fluctuate, on the high end I've seen almost four gallons extracted.

I would prefer to take the lower radiator hose off and drain that way but using the machine is quicker and creates zero mess, which in our industry is crucial. The last thing you want is a surprise EPA visit while coolant is pouring all over the floor.


Oh i was under the impression that the flush machines at shops forced and agitated the old fluid with cleaner etc. From looking online it looks like most of them are just big vacuums that suck out old and put in new. Guess there really isnt a point in doing that then.


Use a Shop Vac (big vacuum cleaner) and plum in your own water/vinegar filler on a radiator hose and vent the other side. Vacuum flush to your hearts content. When the EPA's John Beale, the anti-freeze spill official with the Environmental Protection Agency is not looking (they never do)..dispose of the old coolant/rust with a local FLAPS or junkyard waste storage.
 
All the shop coolant machines I have used simply attach to the upper radiator hose and nipple, and change the coolant while it is in line.

Even with the additive the company would provide me, if a cooling system was neglected, I would sometimes change the coolant TWICE and the cooling system would still be nasty. Neglected Dex-Cool makes the problem worse.

I am sure you can do better by setting up something at home.

If your home sewer goes to a sewage treatment plant, you might be able to dispose of coolant in the toilet without breaking any laws, and you are extremely unlikely to be caught.

I live where every month, you can take hazardous materials to the garbage dump and dispose of them for free.
 
with this much under hood space i would clean out with water as good as possbible then add a base and filter in to the heater hose line. I did this on an old dodge van and it really cleaned up the system to as good as possible for an old dodge van. I think the base is a WIX 24069 and filter is a 24071 if i remember correctly.
 
Suck two cups of coolant out of the radiator and put it in the recovery tank. Fill radiator with two cups of dishwashing machine detergent. Drive the truck for a week and have the coolant changed.
 
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