Need to rant

[izualangel]

Keep the car, honestly. Those Pumpe-Duse diesels can be quite long lived (if the failing oil pumps are addressed in time). Personally, I love my Passat wagon. The ride in a VW is nice, things are well laid out, and like you, I've had to put some time and money into it lately (but not as much.) You said it yourself, a minivan would be boring and 22k miles a year is a lot. Dealing with a rental car will of course, be a pain in the [censored], but it'll likely be more reliable than a cheap winter beater.

 

[Norm Olt]

To the OP:

Start looking for another one like the one you already have: a good running "parts car" that you can use as needed, take parts from as needed... Spare almost everything

It could even be a gas model (GASP!) which would give you some additional flexibility.

Cheers!

p.s. It really worked well for me, other than the fact that the original "parts car" (the '88 I. which has a rebuilt transmission & new top end) has less miles than the '91! I ended up picking up a real "parts car" ('88 II.) and have a spare almost everything!

Won't plan on buying another 4 door sedan for the rest of my life or as long as they still sell gas at the pump.

 

[Andy636]

VAG's TDI are awesome cars until the fuel injection pump, injectors or the clutch assembly and DMF kick the bucket. The second they do, you will have to walk into a dealership with the car key in one hand and a full bottle of astroglide in the other

If you are not a complete mollusk with a wrench and know where to look for the OEM parts you can save a fortune on car repairs. Our Fiat Doblo Multijet's clutch past away last Friday and I went into a dealership to ask for an estimate...they quoted me $900 for parts and labor, needless to say I exited in a big hurry laughing my [censored] off as I can do the same job using the same parts for under $200, it's just that we are getting the first snow here and I wasn't too crazy about working on the car for 3-4 hours, but to save $700 bucks I'll pretend I don't care about the freezing could

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: sleddriver
250,000 miles is a quarter of a million. You're lucky these three components lasted that long. (Perhaps they've already been replaced at least once?)

Given where you live, being on dirt roads, snow, salt & Ice + long winters, 266K on suspension that now needs a look is remarkable. I'm guessing there is plenty of rust on the suspension? It lives a hard life in your area.

Since you don't DIY, you're paying full retail for repairs and maintainence and that can be painful. No doubt.


Nope, all that stuff was original. I would have gotten more out of the rear brakes had I bothered to make sure they were sliding properly; even still, I doubt they would have gone 200k. I guess that is acceptable life. Front pads OTOH--how does a pad just fall off? 175k and the three remaining were only half worn. I still feel like clutch, turbo and fuel pump quit early.

Suspension is just starting to pick up rust. Body panels are starting to show much worse. With the exception of a spot or two they are all all replacable (doors, fenders, hood). I don't think the springs are very rusty, but the Koni struts are getting quite crusty. [Turns out there is a warrenty on them, now if I can only find the receipt.] I am starting to get concerned with all the rubber bits, brake lines included.

I suppose I should see what parts I can find online, and put together an estimate of work I want done.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: bigjl
Just googles Jetta Wagon.

Your car is a VW Golf but with the face of the UK Bora, or Jetta in the US.

Believe it or not some peoe in the VeeDub community have done just that to their Golf estates, as most feel the Bora front looks nicer.

The flywheel is probably a Dual Mass Flywheel? Very common these days.

I must admit that if your car has worn the miles well cosmetically I would consider putting some money into the suspension.

Polybush where possible, heavy duty dampers, maybe Eibach springs and definately change the frontstrut top mounts when you are there.

With cheaper parts prices in the US I don't think it will be overly expensive, if you get it done all at once and get your own parts from online VW specialists.

My tune has changed little as I really like the look of the Bora fronted estate you have, a much better looking car than most these days.

But I have strange taste.



Yes, I believe your side of the pond calls them "estates". It would be hard for me to go back to sedans, as wagons are just more useful.

I suppose I shouldn't be too mad at the DMF failure. When it went, I put in an SMF rated for something like 330lb-ft of torque. When the turbo went I had the ECU tuned (to match the upgraded turbo); the tuner thought it'd be like 240ft-lb. Boy does it pull now, with something like 140hp! Wouldn't have done any of that if the original parts hadn't failed.

I think the next expense, after suspension, is likely the fuel injection nozzles.

 

[JHZR2]

I'm not seeing a bunch of these things as out of the ordinary regular preventive or proactive maintenance.

Our friends are getting rid of a Honda accord at 125k for needing the kinds of things listed.

Rust is a different issue.

If you've modded stuff for higher power you should have no expectation of longevity on any parts even somewhat associated.

 

[supton]

Mods came after original parts failed. I figured, as stuff broke, go bigger and better. I had the original tuning until the turbo let loose.

 

[asiancivicmaniac]

It sounds like you've already put a lot of money into this car. It sounds like it's worth it to spend a bit more. Maybe get a third cheap car as a backup?

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: supton
They are. Lots of stupid things. OTOH it does have a nice ride.

-EGR system. I've had that worked on several times. 85k (recall), 133k (pipe broke due to incompentant work at 85k by the dealer), 168k (cooler).
-front wheel bearings. What's complicated about those? Mine only went 105k. I suspect they are bad again.
-struts. Had those done at 133k. [I did aftermarket, in an attempt to get longer life (and a better ride).]
-rear calipers failed at 168k, when I had to do pads and rotors.
-lost a front pad at 175k. How do they just fall off?
-serpentine tensioner and an engine mount at 180k. Simple wear?
-intake flap at 200k. Seems short-lived.
-clutch at 249k. Thanks VW for a poorly designed flywheel! Clutch disc was in mint shape.
-turbo at 251k.
-second intake flap at 251k. Thanks VW for a great design!
-electric fuel pump (in the tank) failed at 259k.

Now at 266k it basically needs the suspension fully gone through. Not sure I should complain about that--except I am... I think it's been about $6.2k in repairs over the 266kmiles, give or take a few bucks (no maintance included in that figure). Most people I know would not do that kind of work over the years; but then again, most people I know carry debt on their credit card too.

Sounds like the 02 I had. Glad you were able to stick it out. My TDI was sucky. I put 80,000 miles on it and called it quits.

Mine was an auto and had to have the tranny done in that time along with 1 set of front wheel bearings, a set of injectors, a set of glow plugs, 3 nuteral park safety switches, 3 times with the carbon build up, 2 flappers the injector wiring harness twice and all the normal maintenance for a TDI including the timing belt before I sold it, bought a CTS, put 156,000 miles on it did a water pump and 02 sensor, never looked back.

Hard to get rid of something that you know the complete history. You have to ask yourself is it worth the next thing that may break and make the car have down time.
Believe I feel your pain.

 

[supton]

Ah! Now I recall why I was debating if it was time to move on, even before this strut issue: my local VW mechanic is closing shop. Makes getting diesel-specific repairs that much harder. Knew there was something else weighing in on my mind.

I suppose I could keep it, and work on it in my spare time. But then I'm still buying another vehicle, as it'd take me a month to do struts.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: supton
Front pads OTOH--how does a pad just fall off? 175k and the three remaining were only half worn.


I had the lining unglue itself from the metal backing plate after a decade of use and water working its way in between to either freeze/thaw or generate rust. That was fun: three full pedal pumps then metal on rotors, but at least the pedal firmed up and gave me most of my braking back.

I chalked it up to being very gentle on brakes for reasons of economy and not replacing them within a decade.

 

[antiqueshell]

supton:

Actually your car doesn't really owe you anything at all for ANY make you have received excellent service and decent reliability at a reasonable purchase price.

If I were you I would hold on to a known quantity and just keep fixing it. Of course you will need to seek out a new VW indy shop to do any diesel repairs, but as for everything else you can usually use a decent all makes indy and get good service at a reasonable price.

You said you need a back up car...How about buying Tdbo's Taurus?

 

[dparm]

Your story is why a lot of people dump German cars after 3 or 4 years of ownership: the original owner foots the big bill knowing it has a warranty, then takes a bath on it in the used market but knows they won't have to worry about inevitable expensive repairs down the road.

With my 2005 Audi S4, I think I got lucky. I was the third owner (got it with 49k on the clock when it was 4 years old) and in 3 years of ownership it needed NOTHING other than routine maintenance: oil, plugs, front brakes, and tires. Nothing ever broke on it. Previous owner had the window switches replaced, wiper motors replaced, both headlamps, and had a wheel refinished. *shrug*

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: supton
Just failed inspection yesterday for dead front struts.


They inspect your struts in New Hampshire ?

 

[supton]

Apparently they inspect struts. Been a while since I've read the statutes, but IIRC they are required to pull one front and one rear wheel, measure brake lines, on top of the usual looking for play etc.

Unfortunately I picked the car up after he closed shop, so I only have (at the moment) the notes on the inspection form. Tomorrow I'll call. I don't have a reason to distrust the guy; been taking the car there for 8 years now, and so far he's never hit me up for anything. Pretty sure he's a straight shooter. Debating if I should just have him do the struts and wheel bearings, have it all done at once--but I'm waiting first to hear back from my usual VW mechanic, plus this is more of a corner shop. I don't think VW's have too much funky stuff in the front end, but I do know VW's use one-time bolts all over the place.

As to a backup car: if I buy a backup then it'll be a minivan. The more we think about it, the more we'd use it. Once a week for kid duties, at least for this school year; plus, it would have the space we could use for our annual holiday trek. Debating if I want to go start looking today, I mean, if I'm going to buy something might as well do it sooner, and save on a car rental cost.

 

[Merkava_4]

Is that part of a state safety inspection or something? Do they inspect your struts at
the smog shop, or do you take your car to a separate state safety inspection place?

 

[supton]

All done at the same shop. They just "sniff" the OBDII port. As long as there are no codes, and the readiness flags are set (no clearing the codes and going in, hoping for the best), and that's all there is. Of course, the inspection shop has to connect to the state's computer; no hanky-panky allowed.

 

[eljefino]

If you're going to get a van get a chevy venture or clone. All vans (except the villager/quest) have a pretty much major flaw in either engine or transmission.

The Venture is a couple inches narrower than the competition and my short wheelbase Silhouette got 26 ish MPG going 75 MPH on the highway with the AC on. The only issue that was creeping up on me was rust: rocker panels and rear trunk floor pan area. Someone did the notorious intake gaskets already before I picked it up.

 

[BlastChamber]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you're going to get a van get a chevy venture or clone.


I agree. Look for a 2004-5 model to avoid the intake gasket issue altogether. My '04 Venture just turned 100k miles and has required only routine maintenance since new with no major repairs.

 

[supton]

I thought I'd read nothing good about those? Oh, probably thinking of Uplander (Overlander?) whatever it was that flopped right after the Astro. or is it still around? Geez, I have not kept up on minivans at all.

I guess it's worth looking at. I really don't want to buy new, what with this economy and all; but if 200k is more of the exception than the rule, and with our NH salt, I'm a bit hesitant to go too old. Like over 3 or 4 years at most. Wife and I think we can keep a minivan down to 10k/year.