I was sort of in a similar boat recently; I bought this car new in September 2013 and loved it from the first test drive. Remember I came from a 2004 Passat... This car was way quicker and quite a bit more fuel efficient than the Passat. Since moving back to NJ, I've only been driving a little over 300 miles per month, and I knew with roads being well maintained here in the winter, I could consider other cars down the line. My wife asked me a month or so ago if I'd buy another VW or Audi, or if I'd jump into another brand. That got me thinking, I grew up on RWD cars so possibly a Mustang, Camaro or Challenger. I love V8s and looked online for pricing, info, etc... In the end, I decided I'd be a moron to get rid of this GLI. It's got the room I need, the DSG is fantastic (does exhibit odd behaviour sometimes) and the tires have 8k miles on them, I did the DSG service myself 8k miles ago, etc... Since I decided I'm not a moron and don't want to get rid of this car, I decided (Unitronic sale convinced me) to flash the ECU to unlock a little more power. With the Unitronic Uniconnect + cable, I can flash at home. I bought the stage 1+ tune, which also gives me the Stage 1 and stock tune. If I decide later on to go to Stage 2 (requires downpipe) I can purchase downpipe and upgrade the tune, which will then allow me to flash at home between stock, 1, 1+ and 2. Seems like a win-win. Being a car guy and IT engineer, this stuff always excites me, especially now that I don't have to take it to a shop for flashing and pay tax or labor rates.
Need to pick your Brains
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Originally Posted By: CT8
Leave it bone stock and maintain it like you have been doing and bank the money burning a hole in your pocket.
Agree. Once modded, former cream puffs are much harder to sell as the audience for them shrinks. Your best bet is either to keep it as is. Or sell it as a totally original cream puff, and find a modded car to your liking. Let someone else take the 60-85% hit for adding mods to their car.
Leave it bone stock and maintain it like you have been doing and bank the money burning a hole in your pocket.
Agree. Once modded, former cream puffs are much harder to sell as the audience for them shrinks. Your best bet is either to keep it as is. Or sell it as a totally original cream puff, and find a modded car to your liking. Let someone else take the 60-85% hit for adding mods to their car.
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Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: CT8
Leave it bone stock and maintain it like you have been doing and bank the money burning a hole in your pocket.
Agree. Once modded, former cream puffs are much harder to sell as the audience for them shrinks. Your best bet is either to keep it as is. Or sell it as a totally original cream puff, and find a modded car to your liking. Let someone else take the 60-85% hit for adding mods to their car.
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
I am just trying to look at this from a car freak perspective. It would be cheaper to mod, then to trade 0r sell and buy new. If I do mod this VW I wouldn't sell, would just turn into a hand me down car anyway.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: CT8
Leave it bone stock and maintain it like you have been doing and bank the money burning a hole in your pocket.
Agree. Once modded, former cream puffs are much harder to sell as the audience for them shrinks. Your best bet is either to keep it as is. Or sell it as a totally original cream puff, and find a modded car to your liking. Let someone else take the 60-85% hit for adding mods to their car.
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
I am just trying to look at this from a car freak perspective. It would be cheaper to mod, then to trade 0r sell and buy new. If I do mod this VW I wouldn't sell, would just turn into a hand me down car anyway.
Jeff
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Mike,
Does the 1+ Unitronic tune only have the OEM map and Stage I files saved? I ask because the 1+ Map wont work for me since we only have 91 octane fuel here in CA.
curious too on your DSG fluid change. Did you just dump the fluid, measure out how much came out then added that much new fluid in?
With my back the way it is, I cant be crawling under the car any longer to work on my cars. I miss doing stuff like that. Cant afford for my back to get worse, LONG story on my back.
Well, we will see. Right now I am just trying to drive the GTI more. In the last year I have put about 750 miles on it. I need to drive it more.
Jeff
Does the 1+ Unitronic tune only have the OEM map and Stage I files saved? I ask because the 1+ Map wont work for me since we only have 91 octane fuel here in CA.
curious too on your DSG fluid change. Did you just dump the fluid, measure out how much came out then added that much new fluid in?
With my back the way it is, I cant be crawling under the car any longer to work on my cars. I miss doing stuff like that. Cant afford for my back to get worse, LONG story on my back.
Well, we will see. Right now I am just trying to drive the GTI more. In the last year I have put about 750 miles on it. I need to drive it more.
Jeff
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That is old series Redline oils. Philips 66 pushed Redline oils to get approvals and it is nothing special:
Redline 5W40 Professional
As for lower NOACK, Castrol has to have below 10% due to MB 229.5. VW 502.00 is nothing special and one of the least stringent requirements.
You will do good with Castrol 0W40 regardless of tune or not tune, or Mobil1 0W40 for that matter.
If you really want low Noack, go with Mobil1 5W30 ESP and change it every 3K or 4K. Do UOA and check how it is holding up. You live in CA and CA has ULSG. [/quote]
Its a shame to hear about Redline. It is what it is. For me? I will just stick with the Castrol. Its easy to get, and its cheap. Not that I am cheap, its just an added benefit that it happens to be cheap. haha.
To Tune or not to Tune, That is the question hehe.
Jeff
Redline 5W40 Professional
As for lower NOACK, Castrol has to have below 10% due to MB 229.5. VW 502.00 is nothing special and one of the least stringent requirements.
You will do good with Castrol 0W40 regardless of tune or not tune, or Mobil1 0W40 for that matter.
If you really want low Noack, go with Mobil1 5W30 ESP and change it every 3K or 4K. Do UOA and check how it is holding up. You live in CA and CA has ULSG. [/quote]
Its a shame to hear about Redline. It is what it is. For me? I will just stick with the Castrol. Its easy to get, and its cheap. Not that I am cheap, its just an added benefit that it happens to be cheap. haha.
To Tune or not to Tune, That is the question hehe.
Jeff
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EDYVW,
I checked out that Professional Series Redline 5w40 you showed the link for. Looks like it is BMW LL-01 and Porsche A40 approved. I am surprised it is A40 approved with a NOACK of 11%?? I thought A40 had to be under 10% guess not.
Doesn't look like a great oil at all, their 5w30 looks better on paper.
Jeff
I checked out that Professional Series Redline 5w40 you showed the link for. Looks like it is BMW LL-01 and Porsche A40 approved. I am surprised it is A40 approved with a NOACK of 11%?? I thought A40 had to be under 10% guess not.
Doesn't look like a great oil at all, their 5w30 looks better on paper.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
Jeff
On a 200 hp/ 207 ft-lb car, those 22-38% hp/torque increases would certainly put much more stress on parts of the drive line/suspension, especially via a manual 6 speed while laying rubber down. An automatic could take the abuse better. In essence, it's no different how the 80 ft-lbs of torque is added. If I added 80 ft-lbs of torque to either of my cars (265-327 hp), that would severely reduce the safe margin to creating transmission damage in one, and rear end damage in the other. But, I get the point if the car stays in family, it doesn't really matter. In my mind, anyone adding 80 ft-lbs, their intent was to beat on the car. It would be hard to assume otherwise.
Hard to believe the GTI is so de-tuned that 22% more hp is available just by an electronic tweak. My Camaro would need cam + headers + intake + CAT back + reprogram to get that +22% hp.
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
Jeff
On a 200 hp/ 207 ft-lb car, those 22-38% hp/torque increases would certainly put much more stress on parts of the drive line/suspension, especially via a manual 6 speed while laying rubber down. An automatic could take the abuse better. In essence, it's no different how the 80 ft-lbs of torque is added. If I added 80 ft-lbs of torque to either of my cars (265-327 hp), that would severely reduce the safe margin to creating transmission damage in one, and rear end damage in the other. But, I get the point if the car stays in family, it doesn't really matter. In my mind, anyone adding 80 ft-lbs, their intent was to beat on the car. It would be hard to assume otherwise.
Hard to believe the GTI is so de-tuned that 22% more hp is available just by an electronic tweak. My Camaro would need cam + headers + intake + CAT back + reprogram to get that +22% hp.
The Unitronic Stage 1+ file is to be run only with 93 or higher, while the Stage 1 file is good for 91 or higher. This is good for you for 2 reasons, 1) it's $50 cheaper and 2) 91 is the highest you have access to. This is a really solid file as this engine has been around for a LONG time; APR, Unitronic, GIAC and others have been tuning VW engines for many years and their off the shelf tunes yield great power increases for the dollar. If you're running DSG, this is a no brainer. 6MT cars have reported clutch issues down the road due to increased power, but only because the factory clutch isn't really up to snuff, even on older stock tuned ECUs. I'd honestly recommend keeping the car and getting a Stage 1 tune from either local vendor. It'll feel like a different car, but very much stock-like in terms of driveability, plus you're likely to notice increased MPGs.
DSG requires servicing every 40k miles; you mentioned you have back issues (I can more than relate - over 20 years of lower back pains, sometimes keeping me horizontal for a week at a time over the years) in that case I'd recommend a good local VW/Audi specialty shop for the service. You should be looking around $350 for this job, but that price could be higher or lower. I did it for $125 in parts and had a mechanic friend with a lift help me out. I just gave him $50 or so for his time and help. I drained, measured, refilled amount drained. This wasn't technically the way VW says to do it, but I know a lot of VW shops that do it this way. I drained about 4.5 liters, added 4.5 liters back in, which is actually the number the car was recommended to take even if doing it "by the book" so I feel confident she's healthy.
DSG requires servicing every 40k miles; you mentioned you have back issues (I can more than relate - over 20 years of lower back pains, sometimes keeping me horizontal for a week at a time over the years) in that case I'd recommend a good local VW/Audi specialty shop for the service. You should be looking around $350 for this job, but that price could be higher or lower. I did it for $125 in parts and had a mechanic friend with a lift help me out. I just gave him $50 or so for his time and help. I drained, measured, refilled amount drained. This wasn't technically the way VW says to do it, but I know a lot of VW shops that do it this way. I drained about 4.5 liters, added 4.5 liters back in, which is actually the number the car was recommended to take even if doing it "by the book" so I feel confident she's healthy.
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Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
Jeff
On a 200 hp/ 207 ft-lb car, those 22-38% hp/torque increases would certainly put much more stress on parts of the drive line/suspension, especially via a manual 6 speed while laying rubber down. An automatic could take the abuse better. In essence, it's no different how the 80 ft-lbs of torque is added. If I added 80 ft-lbs of torque to either of my cars (265-327 hp), that would severely reduce the safe margin to creating transmission damage in one, and rear end damage in the other. But, I get the point if the car stays in family, it doesn't really matter. In my mind, anyone adding 80 ft-lbs, their intent was to beat on the car. It would be hard to assume otherwise.
Hard to believe the GTI is so de-tuned that 22% more hp is available just by an electronic tweak. My Camaro would need cam + headers + intake + CAT back + reprogram to get that +22% hp.
The Main reason for the HP and TQ gains are so easily obtained vs your cars is one reason. Forced Induction. Your cars are not. Yes the GTI comes de tuned from the factory to meet our [censored] fuel and emission requirements here.
The GTI like many forced induction cars are very capable of sometimes even doubling the OEM HP and TQ numbers by ECU mods and bolt ons.
One example was my 2006 Mitsubishi Evo 9 MR. From the factory it dyno'd at 225hp at the wheels, I forget the TQ, with bolt ons and a tune I was making 340hp at the wheels on pump gas, 385 on E85 and 400 on WMI 70% mix. I drove it like this for 5 years, tracked it several times a month over that 5 yr span and NOT ONE FAILURE.
The GTI though is FWD the Evo was AWD so the Evo is a better platform to go crazy with, but for $550 to add 45hp and 80tq to an engine that can easily take it, well to me is almost a no brainer.
Wouldn't you agree??
Jeff
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
Jeff
On a 200 hp/ 207 ft-lb car, those 22-38% hp/torque increases would certainly put much more stress on parts of the drive line/suspension, especially via a manual 6 speed while laying rubber down. An automatic could take the abuse better. In essence, it's no different how the 80 ft-lbs of torque is added. If I added 80 ft-lbs of torque to either of my cars (265-327 hp), that would severely reduce the safe margin to creating transmission damage in one, and rear end damage in the other. But, I get the point if the car stays in family, it doesn't really matter. In my mind, anyone adding 80 ft-lbs, their intent was to beat on the car. It would be hard to assume otherwise.
Hard to believe the GTI is so de-tuned that 22% more hp is available just by an electronic tweak. My Camaro would need cam + headers + intake + CAT back + reprogram to get that +22% hp.
The Main reason for the HP and TQ gains are so easily obtained vs your cars is one reason. Forced Induction. Your cars are not. Yes the GTI comes de tuned from the factory to meet our [censored] fuel and emission requirements here.
The GTI like many forced induction cars are very capable of sometimes even doubling the OEM HP and TQ numbers by ECU mods and bolt ons.
One example was my 2006 Mitsubishi Evo 9 MR. From the factory it dyno'd at 225hp at the wheels, I forget the TQ, with bolt ons and a tune I was making 340hp at the wheels on pump gas, 385 on E85 and 400 on WMI 70% mix. I drove it like this for 5 years, tracked it several times a month over that 5 yr span and NOT ONE FAILURE.
The GTI though is FWD the Evo was AWD so the Evo is a better platform to go crazy with, but for $550 to add 45hp and 80tq to an engine that can easily take it, well to me is almost a no brainer.
Wouldn't you agree??
Jeff
Last edited:
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Originally Posted By: nolesfan
The Unitronic Stage 1+ file is to be run only with 93 or higher, while the Stage 1 file is good for 91 or higher. This is good for you for 2 reasons, 1) it's $50 cheaper and 2) 91 is the highest you have access to. This is a really solid file as this engine has been around for a LONG time; APR, Unitronic, GIAC and others have been tuning VW engines for many years and their off the shelf tunes yield great power increases for the dollar. If you're running DSG, this is a no brainer. 6MT cars have reported clutch issues down the road due to increased power, but only because the factory clutch isn't really up to snuff, even on older stock tuned ECUs. I'd honestly recommend keeping the car and getting a Stage 1 tune from either local vendor. It'll feel like a different car, but very much stock-like in terms of driveability, plus you're likely to notice increased MPGs.
DSG requires servicing every 40k miles; you mentioned you have back issues (I can more than relate - over 20 years of lower back pains, sometimes keeping me horizontal for a week at a time over the years) in that case I'd recommend a good local VW/Audi specialty shop for the service. You should be looking around $350 for this job, but that price could be higher or lower. I did it for $125 in parts and had a mechanic friend with a lift help me out. I just gave him $50 or so for his time and help. I drained, measured, refilled amount drained. This wasn't technically the way VW says to do it, but I know a lot of VW shops that do it this way. I drained about 4.5 liters, added 4.5 liters back in, which is actually the number the car was recommended to take even if doing it "by the book" so I feel confident she's healthy.
Your close to the price I had my service done at 37K miles cost me $380. I could do it myself, but not risking jacking my back up even more. Not worth it.
The DSG can hold more power than the standard in several different ways, the gears themselves are wider and can take more TQ than the standard version, and the DSG in the GTI is a wet clutch type and is darn near bullet proof unless your getting around 500whp. After that? your on borrowed time unless you upgrade the clutch packs.
People ask me why I bought the DSG over the Standard. I see it like this. I am a car guy. I go for what makes the car I am buying perform the best. In this particular application, the DSG is quicker to 60, quicker in the 1/4, gets better gas mileage, AND if you did want to mod it can hold more power reliably.
Why wouldn't you get the DSG?? So you can have more drivers enjoyment? What a crock. My enjoyment will be passing the standard shifting guys on the track haha
I can focus on driving the car, and not worrying about shifting the car. I know this from experience with my Evo's, Missing a gear going sideways at 100mph+ is NO FUN I HAVE DONE IT.
I have not tracked this GTI, probably never will, but I will say, its a fun little car. Very under rated in the public and that is one reason why I love it.
Jeff
The Unitronic Stage 1+ file is to be run only with 93 or higher, while the Stage 1 file is good for 91 or higher. This is good for you for 2 reasons, 1) it's $50 cheaper and 2) 91 is the highest you have access to. This is a really solid file as this engine has been around for a LONG time; APR, Unitronic, GIAC and others have been tuning VW engines for many years and their off the shelf tunes yield great power increases for the dollar. If you're running DSG, this is a no brainer. 6MT cars have reported clutch issues down the road due to increased power, but only because the factory clutch isn't really up to snuff, even on older stock tuned ECUs. I'd honestly recommend keeping the car and getting a Stage 1 tune from either local vendor. It'll feel like a different car, but very much stock-like in terms of driveability, plus you're likely to notice increased MPGs.
DSG requires servicing every 40k miles; you mentioned you have back issues (I can more than relate - over 20 years of lower back pains, sometimes keeping me horizontal for a week at a time over the years) in that case I'd recommend a good local VW/Audi specialty shop for the service. You should be looking around $350 for this job, but that price could be higher or lower. I did it for $125 in parts and had a mechanic friend with a lift help me out. I just gave him $50 or so for his time and help. I drained, measured, refilled amount drained. This wasn't technically the way VW says to do it, but I know a lot of VW shops that do it this way. I drained about 4.5 liters, added 4.5 liters back in, which is actually the number the car was recommended to take even if doing it "by the book" so I feel confident she's healthy.
Your close to the price I had my service done at 37K miles cost me $380. I could do it myself, but not risking jacking my back up even more. Not worth it.
The DSG can hold more power than the standard in several different ways, the gears themselves are wider and can take more TQ than the standard version, and the DSG in the GTI is a wet clutch type and is darn near bullet proof unless your getting around 500whp. After that? your on borrowed time unless you upgrade the clutch packs.
People ask me why I bought the DSG over the Standard. I see it like this. I am a car guy. I go for what makes the car I am buying perform the best. In this particular application, the DSG is quicker to 60, quicker in the 1/4, gets better gas mileage, AND if you did want to mod it can hold more power reliably.
Why wouldn't you get the DSG?? So you can have more drivers enjoyment? What a crock. My enjoyment will be passing the standard shifting guys on the track haha
I can focus on driving the car, and not worrying about shifting the car. I know this from experience with my Evo's, Missing a gear going sideways at 100mph+ is NO FUN I HAVE DONE IT.
I have not tracked this GTI, probably never will, but I will say, its a fun little car. Very under rated in the public and that is one reason why I love it.
Jeff
I'm not a VW guy myself, but on the german forums GTIs (especially when modified) do seem to like heavier 5w-40. ("Like" meaning significantly lower iron wear in UOAs compared to 5w-30 or even some lighter 0w-40.)
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Originally Posted By: turboseize
I'm not a VW guy myself, but on the german forums GTIs (especially when modified) do seem to like heavier 5w-40. ("Like" meaning significantly lower iron wear in UOAs compared to 5w-30 or even some lighter 0w-40.)
I run Castrol Euro 0w40 UOA's are spot on and the car runs so smooth on this oil. Its tried and true oil in the VW community.
Jeff
I'm not a VW guy myself, but on the german forums GTIs (especially when modified) do seem to like heavier 5w-40. ("Like" meaning significantly lower iron wear in UOAs compared to 5w-30 or even some lighter 0w-40.)
I run Castrol Euro 0w40 UOA's are spot on and the car runs so smooth on this oil. Its tried and true oil in the VW community.
Jeff
Jeff, have had 5 GTIs and all were fun, inexpensive cars. If you're paid off, I say keep it and do some mild tasteful mods. These cars take modding well and deliver excellent results as long as you don't go too extreme. Tunes are definately the best bang for the buck of them all, but I would start with some areas of need first. If you haven't already, get better tires, they transform every aspect of dynamics. Second, upgrade the brakes. Nothing BBK-wise or earthshattering, just some better pads, stainless lines, better fluid, and a bushing stiffening kit. THEN, get into a tune (I have a JB4 on my MKVII, its awesome). Tunes seem to alter the shift expectations of the DSG enough that a TCU tune would be beneficial. A bigger IC would be beneficial in the warmer temps , but stage 1 its recommended if you don't drive like a bat out of Hades. Stage 2 would REQUIRE a bigger IC (I like the Integrated Engineering one personally) as well as a downpipe to get full benefit. May be fun for the first couple months of driving but then you find yourself using it's potential less and less. Just go Stage 1 and save some more cash for other stuff. Maybe throw a slightly bigger RSB (rear anti-sway bar) on it and call it a day. You'd have a super nifty little car that would put a smile on your face every time you drive it. And smile all the way to the bank with the $$$ you save vs. new car.
On the oil, stick with the Castrol. Like was said, tried and true for the VAG crowd and with 5K OCIs, not much chance of anything bad happening other than throwing good money away changing the "boutique" oil too often. No gains by going with anything more expensive. Worried about deposits? Run the [censored] out of it occasionally to keep them at bay. Do some UOAs and keep an eye on nitration readings as they are a good indication of deposit formations. Oh, and on the DSG fluid change, I have done several and by both methods with no difference. In fact, after the first couple drain/measure/fills, I did the book method warm fluid to 35-45C after rowing through gears . Then dropped the drain plug to let excess fluid out and only got a very small amount (like 10-15 drops) out. Negligable enough to deem this the method of choice for me. Don't have to get underneath except to drain fluid. One last word of advice, DRIVE THE CAR MORE AND HAVE FUN WITH IT!!!
On the oil, stick with the Castrol. Like was said, tried and true for the VAG crowd and with 5K OCIs, not much chance of anything bad happening other than throwing good money away changing the "boutique" oil too often. No gains by going with anything more expensive. Worried about deposits? Run the [censored] out of it occasionally to keep them at bay. Do some UOAs and keep an eye on nitration readings as they are a good indication of deposit formations. Oh, and on the DSG fluid change, I have done several and by both methods with no difference. In fact, after the first couple drain/measure/fills, I did the book method warm fluid to 35-45C after rowing through gears . Then dropped the drain plug to let excess fluid out and only got a very small amount (like 10-15 drops) out. Negligable enough to deem this the method of choice for me. Don't have to get underneath except to drain fluid. One last word of advice, DRIVE THE CAR MORE AND HAVE FUN WITH IT!!!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
I am just trying to look at this from a car freak perspective. It would be cheaper to mod, then to trade 0r sell and buy new. If I do mod this VW I wouldn't sell, would just turn into a hand me down car anyway.
Jeff
My Mazdaspped3 had a Mazdaspeed CAI, E Focus RMM, Koni FSDs, and a JBR rear anti-roll bar. When I traded it for my 2 Series the dealer gave me $500 over auction value. The thing is, the modifications I made to the MS3 made it enjoyable enough that I wound up keeping it a couple of years longer than I originally intended.
I understand your point, but the mods are really basic. Nothing crazy expensive, and nothing that alters the car. The ECU tune for example costs $550 ads about 45hp and 80ft lbs tq to the car. This is on a bone stock car. Just that alone would make a noticeable difference in how this car drives.
I am just trying to look at this from a car freak perspective. It would be cheaper to mod, then to trade 0r sell and buy new. If I do mod this VW I wouldn't sell, would just turn into a hand me down car anyway.
Jeff
My Mazdaspped3 had a Mazdaspeed CAI, E Focus RMM, Koni FSDs, and a JBR rear anti-roll bar. When I traded it for my 2 Series the dealer gave me $500 over auction value. The thing is, the modifications I made to the MS3 made it enjoyable enough that I wound up keeping it a couple of years longer than I originally intended.
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