Need the strongest coolant flush for brown sludge in cooling system

Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
54
Location
Tennessee
It's been a really long time since the car I have had a coolant system flush. It looks like the prior owner ran the wrong/cheap coolant. After many many water flushes it's still brown muddy water.

I'm even looking at potential DIY home recipes if anything like that exists for a cleaning. The car is 24 years old but still cools exceptionally well. I don't have to drive it everyday so even if there's something that works as an overnight thing even. I can do anything

Thanks in advance.
 
I'd consider a different route.
Buy 40 gallons of distilled water from Wal Mart, and a new OEM replacement coolant reservoir.

Replace the coolant reservoir so I could see in the reservoir. I would drain the old coolant, and run just distilled water. I would keep draining the distilled water daily, until the water in the reservoir is clear.

Clear water in the reservoir will indicate the cooling system is clean. After the cooling system is clean, replace the distilled water with the appropriate coolant.

The above should not be executed if the vehicle is at risk of being in below freezing temperatures.
 
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Pull the radiator out and flush it with a garden hose. Then remove the thermostat and run the garden hose through the engine until the water coming out is clear. Afterwards, reinstall the radiator and a new thermostat and fill the system with your favorite brand of appropriate coolant.
 
I put a coolant filter on a toy I had.
It really did a great job of keeping, what was, very dirty coolant clean.
I did flush the heck out of it 1st.

COOLANT FILTER1 - Copy.webp


Coolant Filter2 - Copy.webp


TRUCK SIDE2 - Copy.webp
 
Walmart TLE has a $53 coolant service which includes running a cleaner from Valvoline through it then up to two gallons of Valvoline coolant in it.
 
I'd consider a different route.
Buy 40 gallons of distilled water from Wal Mart, and a new OEM replacement coolant reservoir.

Replace the coolant reservoir so I could see in the reservoir. I would drain the old coolant, and run just distilled water. I would keep draining the distilled water daily, until the water in the reservoir is clear.

Clear water in the reservoir will indicate the cooling system is clean. After the cooling system is clean, replace the distilled water with the appropriate coolant.

The above should not be executed if the vehicle is at risk of being in below freezing temperatures.
100% water is a horrible lubricant for seals. You might want to add 20% coolant for lubrication.
 
It's been a really long time since the car I have had a coolant system flush. It looks like the prior owner ran the wrong/cheap coolant. After many many water flushes it's still brown muddy water.

I'm even looking at potential DIY home recipes if anything like that exists for a cleaning. The car is 24 years old but still cools exceptionally well. I don't have to drive it everyday so even if there's something that works as an overnight thing even. I can do anything

Thanks in advance.
A double dose of tbe prestone system flush plus the kit .
 
I've faced this many times with used cars. Cured it every single time by flushing with a strong Simple Green (or similar aluminum-safe cleanser) and water solution. Works very well for any kind of crud in the system (but will not remove hard-core corrosion, calcified build-up, etc.). Depending how bad the crud buildup is, you may have to repeat the process.

When complete, separately flush each component with your garden hose and ensure each component is clear of the solution. To do this, it's often easier to remove some parts, such as the radiator, coolant hoses, and the overflow reservoir.

I rig up my shop-vac to blow through 5/8" or 1/2" heater hose and gently blast excess water from the system, to include the heater core.

It's also imperative to remove the block drain plug(s)...which most folks don't seem to do because it's often inconvenient.

I've never been on the distilled water bandwagon for flushing; a standard garden hose is fine in most locales. The cleaning and rinsing water is almost completely removed with my method, and any trace minerals which may be left behind should be absolutely negligible.

When thoroughly emptied, you can add the full amount of 50-50 coolant/distilled water with no residual water in the system
 
I'm curious, I rarely see soda ash (sodium carbonate) mentioned as an effective coolant system cleaner, here on BITOG. But in big truck and motor home forums, soda ash seems to be the preferred cooling system cleaner. From what I have read, it is popular because it is very effective, and inexpensive, when compared to the typical coolant system cleaner offerings.

I used it when I flushed the Cummins 8.3 ISC cooling system in my motor home, of old unknown coolant, to change it to an OAT HD coolant. I was very happy with the results.

Is there any particular reason that soda ash, as a cooling system flush, is not popular among the BITOG gang?
 
I've faced this many times with used cars. Cured it every single time by flushing with a strong Simple Green (or similar aluminum-safe cleanser) and water solution. Works very well for any kind of crud in the system (but will not remove hard-core corrosion, calcified build-up, etc.). Depending how bad the crud buildup is, you may have to repeat the process.

When complete, separately flush each component with your garden hose and ensure each component is clear of the solution. To do this, it's often easier to remove some parts, such as the radiator, coolant hoses, and the overflow reservoir.

I rig up my shop-vac to blow through 5/8" or 1/2" heater hose and gently blast excess water from the system, to include the heater core.

It's also imperative to remove the block drain plug(s)...which most folks don't seem to do because it's often inconvenient.

I've never been on the distilled water bandwagon for flushing; a standard garden hose is fine in most locales. The cleaning and rinsing water is almost completely removed with my method, and any trace minerals which may be left behind should be absolutely negligible.

When thoroughly emptied, you can add the full amount of 50-50 coolant/distilled water with no residual water in the system
Simple Green isn't aluminum safe
 
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