Need recommendation for 2005 Xterra driven in multiple harsh conditions

[Willy_G]

I believe Nissan does not recommend synthetics for their engines, per the owner's manual (but that do they know?).

Mobil 1 5w30 should do fine, but is probably overkill for your application. I can't talk because I found a 5qt jug of the good SJ tri-syn Mobil 1 5w30 I forgot about out in the shed & dumped it in my '05 Ion a couple weeks ago! The engine hasn't blown up yet

.

Trop Artic 5w30 pours at -38f and is only $1.32/quart. Word is that it is about 50% Group III synthetic, too. Although sold as semi-synthetic, I haven't seen proof of its content. But, I've been running this in the Wife's '04 Quest (with the 3.5 V6) and don't have anything negitive to report.

 

[Schism]

I'd just use any of the syns you mentioned, though the 0w30 will have superior cold performance, and protect just as good as the 5w's. I don't think you'll need to change it more often than every 5-6k or so using sythetic.

 

[The Critic]

Since you’re operating under such harsh conditions, as cold weather is very hard on oil, I’d change it every 3-4000 miles or 4 months with Trop Artic Blend 5w-30 or Havoline dino 5w-30 with a Supertech filter. I personally think that using a good, inexpensive dino or blend and a solid filter, and changing it at short 3-4K intervals is the best way to save money, and provide excellent protection while avoiding warranty hassles.

In addition, from what I’ve seen in the UOA section, the similar VQ35 engine never showed very good results with M1 syn for some reason. It seems to show better wear #s with a dino or blend for some reason. Some people have said that the VQ35 engine preferred dino for the first 15-20K to allow for proper break-in, as supposedly some that switched to syn early experienced some oil consumption, but I don’t know how valid these findings are.

The myth that towing trailers overheats engines and requires you to use a syn is bull. Modern conventional oils will work fine and are good for oil temps up to 305F, according to what the GM engineer posted on this board a while back.

If Nissan specifically does not recommend the usage of full synthetic oils in their engines, I’d heed that suggestion to prevent an uphill battle with the manufacturer in the event of any engine problems.

Michael

 

[cknaffle]

I have a 2005 Nissan Xterra with the 4.0 V6 in it (looooooove that motor!). I live in Michigan and frequently travel to the UP where temps go under -30F routinely. It will get driven every day by either me to work (5 miles, country roads, 5 stops) or my wife to work (1 mile, slow city, 7 stops). I will also frequently be towing trailers, although usually not over 3000#, but at 80+ MPH. And I'll also be up to the sand dunes a few times per summer which means running the redline for a good part of the day. So all that combined means I'm hard on my motor. I realize this, and I want to really take care of it becuase I REALLY like this vehicle!

I was thinking of going with Mobil 1 5W30 or Amsoil 5W30 or 0W30 and doing longer interval changes. Then I was thinking given those conditions I would want to change more often (per the severe use interval in the owner's manual). I thought maybe I would just stay with a synthetic blend. I've had good luck with Valvoline DuraBlend in the past, and it frequently goes on sale at Meijer.

I really haven't done a ton of homework on this, mostly becuase there is so much to learn, I just don't have time to read and understand it all. I thought I'd start a post and ask the knowledgable people here!

Any advice is VERY MUCH appreciated! I'm open to ANY recommendations! Thanks!!!!!!!!!

 

[Schism]

Hmm, I thought I edited my post. I was also going to say just keep on using the durablend or similar blend and change it every 3-4k or so.(Similar to what Michael is suggesting)
That trop artic blend is excellent in everything according to it's specs, which does suggest it has quite a bit of syn(Grp3) in it, however noone knows for certain how much. It's a $1.24 per quart at my local walmart, i'll probably be trying it in my mom's van on the next oil change.

 

[cknaffle]

Thanks for the suggestions. What is this trop artic you speak of? I've never seen such an oil at Walmart. ???????

 

[jorton]

It's a Connoco Phillips product, similar to Kendall, Phillips 66 and Motorcraft oil.

 

[MarkC]

Anybody have any theories as to why Nissan doesn't recommend synthetic?

 

[Willy_G]

I don't think Nissan has done wear tests on them. Probably a R&D cost cutting effort.

 

[Blake Sobiloff]

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkC:
Anybody have any theories as to why Nissan doesn't recommend synthetic?

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Nissan is very conservative regarding motor oils, and their VQ engines like a thick 30-weight or light 40-weight oil. They certainly aren't jumping on the 20-weight bandwagon, nor do they have OLMs in any of their vehicles (that I'm aware of, at least). They seem to be stuck (or are sticking with) the "old school" oil mindset.

Having said that, I've run two VQ engines on Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetics, one for almost 100K miles and the other for 45K miles, and neither engine used a drop or had any other troubles.

For extreme cold weather, like in the UP, I'd definitely stay away from conventional oils. Synthetics perform much better in extreme cold startup situations (pumpability and flow). Use German Castrol 0W-30 if you can find it, or Mobil 1 0W-40, and your engine will likely turn in excellent UOAs.

Nissan allows for 7,500 miles between oil changes (normal service schedule), and either of the above oils should be able to handle that interval without difficulty.

 

[ekpolk]

I concur with Blake. My VQ35DE (in G35 trim; a close relative of your VQ40) really seems to love GC, which of course, is a thick 30 wt (around 12.5 cSt). In my climate, the 0w part of it is pretty unimportant. I don't care if you don't believe in "butt dynos,"* but it clearly runs smoother on the GC than it did on the Havo 30 wt I used during the break-in period. I also completely lost the "timing chain rattle", a known TSB-ed issue in some VQs when I switched over to the GC (occurs briefly on start while the O/P actuated chain tensioner allows slack until fully pressurized). If you can get your hands on some GC, I'd strongly recommend trying it.

*of course, I'm not making any "butt dyno" hp claims.

 

[eljefino]

I like Michael Wan's advice.

I don't know what RPMs you're spinning at 80mph with that trailer but you'll have good pressure and flow even with a 0w30. If I had to venture a guess you've got a nice cabin property in the middle of nowhere (pretty much all of the UP from what I read) where you jetski/snowmobile/hunt. You blow up there every weekend, or try to, and it's so boring and straight a drive going 80 is the only way to stay awake.

 

[cknaffle]

quote:

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Originally posted by eljefino:
I like Michael Wan's advice.

I don't know what RPMs you're spinning at 80mph with that trailer but you'll have good pressure and flow even with a 0w30. If I had to venture a guess you've got a nice cabin property in the middle of nowhere (pretty much all of the UP from what I read) where you jetski/snowmobile/hunt. You blow up there every weekend, or try to, and it's so boring and straight a drive going 80 is the only way to stay awake.

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Pretty darn close!

 

[cknaffle]

Thanks for the recommendations guys. I ended up sticking with Valvoline DuraBlend 5W30 and will be chnaging it every 3000-4000, as per the owner's manual. Just incase anything happens, this should make the warranty situation easier.

 

[brian fix]

Phillips Trop artic is a fine oil ,,,Quaker State 5w-30 blend is also a bit better,,,Schaeffers 5w-30 blend better yet,that would be my choices,,,for mineral oils Havoline/Chevron are really good,,full Synt. Penzoil Platnum,Amsoil,Schaeffers 5w-40,,,,BL

 

[Anthony]

From what ive read, nissan reccomends against syn engine lubes because they think conumers might try to push extended drains to far.

You can use syn oil in them with no problems at all. My 04 frontier has been on M1 sine 11k and now has 25k.

Im running M1 10w30 EP at 4000 mile intervals with no consumption and it also sees towing fairly frequently.

My dads 01 supercharged frontier has had syn since about 3k and now has 105k with no consumtion at all between changes.

Im about to switch both trucks to M1 5w30 EP for the colder months.

 

[hounddog]

Towing anything at 80 is nuts and terribly dangerous to you and anyone else on the road.

 

[cknaffle]

And of course, that's not the first time I've been told that, but there are plenty of people that do it every day. Every Friday, all winter long, there are hundreds of trucks all going north to the snow and most of them do drive 75+.

When the trailer is properly loaded and the vehicle pulling it is properly equipped, I really can't see a problem with it. Its just important to pay attention to the conditions. Of course I don't drive that fast on snow covered curvy roads with traffic all over the place.

 

[thedawk]

quote:

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Originally posted by hounddog:
Towing anything at 80 is nuts and terribly dangerous to you and anyone else on the road.

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Seems like it would be safer to drive 80 with a trailer than to drive 65 or 70 when all the traffic around you is doing at least 80 to 90 and weaving or cutting in front of you.

 

[cknaffle]

BINGO! I hate it when traffic is flowing nicely along at 80 MPH and somebody has to have the butt parked in the fast lane doing 60. That creates quite a mess!