If your corolla is anything like the 2000 vvti i had it wont like thin 5w30 oil. you will develop piston slaps by 60k miles. I have seen this on many corollas. So use something like 10w-50 grade castrol gtx hm. In winter depending on how cold it gets you can use 5w30. No need for synthetic as i had 300k miles all on iconventional oil with good results.
Need Oil Recommendation Please.
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Originally Posted By: pickler
If your corolla is anything like the 2000 vvti i had it wont like thin 5w30 oil. you will develop piston slaps by 60k miles. I have seen this on many corollas. So use something like 10w-50 grade castrol gtx hm. In winter depending on how cold it gets you can use 5w30. No need for synthetic as i had 300k miles all on iconventional oil with good results.
You think that 5w30 is too thin, and everyone else is telling me to use 0w20 or 5w20. If I did use 10w50 how badly would my mpg be affected?
If your corolla is anything like the 2000 vvti i had it wont like thin 5w30 oil. you will develop piston slaps by 60k miles. I have seen this on many corollas. So use something like 10w-50 grade castrol gtx hm. In winter depending on how cold it gets you can use 5w30. No need for synthetic as i had 300k miles all on iconventional oil with good results.
You think that 5w30 is too thin, and everyone else is telling me to use 0w20 or 5w20. If I did use 10w50 how badly would my mpg be affected?
Use of a 10w50 instead of an Xw20 is going to make a much bigger difference as fuel economy goes in your usage than in more typical usage. When you're idling and the only loads are the AC and electric the engine is already in a very inefficient operating mode. It's fuel usage per hour is lower than for a car that's actually driving around, but pumping losses account for a huge percentage of energy use. Because of this an Xw20 makes that much more sense from a fuel economy standpoint.
A thick Xw30 or thin Xw40 is about the thickest that could make much of any sense in that scenario and is understandable if you're nervous about high heat, perhaps in the event something goes wrong. For a little extra feeling of safety, maybe you want to choose a synthetic Xw20 with a high VI so it doesn't thin out as much if it does somehow get extra hot, but still get the fuel economy advantage of an Xw20.
One way or another, that is a car that should be very reliable and it'll be in a usage scenario that is very easy on both the engine and the oil. If you're really concerned about having a safety net, how about keeping a sort of a emergency kit in the trunk:
-5 gallons of drinking water (in case something really bad happens)
-2 quarts of name brand synthetic 5w30
-2 quarts of 15w40 in case you manage to spring a leak
-a gallon of undiluted anti-freeze (can also be used in brake system in a pinch) and some ground black pepper
-a gallon of Everclear or similar in a metal can as emergency fuel supply/disinfectant
-an oil filter and tools for both the filter and drain bolt
-a couple of rags and a pair of dish washing gloves
-a solar powered trickle charger
-a small toolkit with a ratchet and metric sockets, screwdriver, hammer, and pliers
-a tire plug kit and 12V electric tire inflator with work light
-a roll of gaffer's tape
-some zip ties
-a plastic tote to store the fluids in so no worries about leaky bottles
-a few feet of bailing wire (oops that boulder broke my tie rod)
-a roll of aluminum foil (always good to have)
-a length of nylon rope (see aluminum foil)
-a plastic tote for all the fluids except the water, just in case the bottles leak
Addition:
Maybe the emergency kit could also include two short 12 gauge shotguns and 50 shells in a proper ammo box just in case the Zombie Revolution starts while you're on the road.
A thick Xw30 or thin Xw40 is about the thickest that could make much of any sense in that scenario and is understandable if you're nervous about high heat, perhaps in the event something goes wrong. For a little extra feeling of safety, maybe you want to choose a synthetic Xw20 with a high VI so it doesn't thin out as much if it does somehow get extra hot, but still get the fuel economy advantage of an Xw20.
One way or another, that is a car that should be very reliable and it'll be in a usage scenario that is very easy on both the engine and the oil. If you're really concerned about having a safety net, how about keeping a sort of a emergency kit in the trunk:
-5 gallons of drinking water (in case something really bad happens)
-2 quarts of name brand synthetic 5w30
-2 quarts of 15w40 in case you manage to spring a leak
-a gallon of undiluted anti-freeze (can also be used in brake system in a pinch) and some ground black pepper
-a gallon of Everclear or similar in a metal can as emergency fuel supply/disinfectant
-an oil filter and tools for both the filter and drain bolt
-a couple of rags and a pair of dish washing gloves
-a solar powered trickle charger
-a small toolkit with a ratchet and metric sockets, screwdriver, hammer, and pliers
-a tire plug kit and 12V electric tire inflator with work light
-a roll of gaffer's tape
-some zip ties
-a plastic tote to store the fluids in so no worries about leaky bottles
-a few feet of bailing wire (oops that boulder broke my tie rod)
-a roll of aluminum foil (always good to have)
-a length of nylon rope (see aluminum foil)
-a plastic tote for all the fluids except the water, just in case the bottles leak
Addition:
Maybe the emergency kit could also include two short 12 gauge shotguns and 50 shells in a proper ammo box just in case the Zombie Revolution starts while you're on the road.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Use of a 10w50 instead of an Xw20 is going to make a much bigger difference as fuel economy goes in your usage than in more typical usage. When you're idling and the only loads are the AC and electric the engine is already in a very inefficient operating mode. It's fuel usage per hour is lower than for a car that's actually driving around, but pumping losses account for a huge percentage of energy use. Because of this an Xw20 makes that much more sense from a fuel economy standpoint.
A thick Xw30 or thin Xw40 is about the thickest that could make much of any sense in that scenario and is understandable if you're nervous about high heat, perhaps in the event something goes wrong. For a little extra feeling of safety, maybe you want to choose a synthetic Xw20 with a high VI so it doesn't thin out as much if it does somehow get extra hot, but still get the fuel economy advantage of an Xw20.
One way or another, that is a car that should be very reliable and it'll be in a usage scenario that is very easy on both the engine and the oil. If you're really concerned about having a safety net, how about keeping a sort of a emergency kit in the trunk:
-5 gallons of drinking water (in case something really bad happens)
-2 quarts of name brand synthetic 5w30
-2 quarts of 15w40 in case you manage to spring a leak
-a gallon of undiluted anti-freeze (can also be used in brake system in a pinch) and some ground black pepper
-a gallon of Everclear or similar in a metal can as emergency fuel supply/disinfectant
-an oil filter and tools for both the filter and drain bolt
-a couple of rags and a pair of dish washing gloves
-a solar powered trickle charger
-a small toolkit with a ratchet and metric sockets, screwdriver, hammer, and pliers
-a tire plug kit and 12V electric tire inflator with work light
-a roll of gaffer's tape
-some zip ties
-a plastic tote to store the fluids in so no worries about leaky bottles
-a few feet of bailing wire (oops that boulder broke my tie rod)
-a roll of aluminum foil (always good to have)
-a length of nylon rope (see aluminum foil)
-a plastic tote for all the fluids except the water, just in case the bottles leak
Addition:
Maybe the emergency kit could also include two short 12 gauge shotguns and 50 shells in a proper ammo box just in case the Zombie Revolution starts while you're on the road.
lol
Use of a 10w50 instead of an Xw20 is going to make a much bigger difference as fuel economy goes in your usage than in more typical usage. When you're idling and the only loads are the AC and electric the engine is already in a very inefficient operating mode. It's fuel usage per hour is lower than for a car that's actually driving around, but pumping losses account for a huge percentage of energy use. Because of this an Xw20 makes that much more sense from a fuel economy standpoint.
A thick Xw30 or thin Xw40 is about the thickest that could make much of any sense in that scenario and is understandable if you're nervous about high heat, perhaps in the event something goes wrong. For a little extra feeling of safety, maybe you want to choose a synthetic Xw20 with a high VI so it doesn't thin out as much if it does somehow get extra hot, but still get the fuel economy advantage of an Xw20.
One way or another, that is a car that should be very reliable and it'll be in a usage scenario that is very easy on both the engine and the oil. If you're really concerned about having a safety net, how about keeping a sort of a emergency kit in the trunk:
-5 gallons of drinking water (in case something really bad happens)
-2 quarts of name brand synthetic 5w30
-2 quarts of 15w40 in case you manage to spring a leak
-a gallon of undiluted anti-freeze (can also be used in brake system in a pinch) and some ground black pepper
-a gallon of Everclear or similar in a metal can as emergency fuel supply/disinfectant
-an oil filter and tools for both the filter and drain bolt
-a couple of rags and a pair of dish washing gloves
-a solar powered trickle charger
-a small toolkit with a ratchet and metric sockets, screwdriver, hammer, and pliers
-a tire plug kit and 12V electric tire inflator with work light
-a roll of gaffer's tape
-some zip ties
-a plastic tote to store the fluids in so no worries about leaky bottles
-a few feet of bailing wire (oops that boulder broke my tie rod)
-a roll of aluminum foil (always good to have)
-a length of nylon rope (see aluminum foil)
-a plastic tote for all the fluids except the water, just in case the bottles leak
Addition:
Maybe the emergency kit could also include two short 12 gauge shotguns and 50 shells in a proper ammo box just in case the Zombie Revolution starts while you're on the road.
lol
Originally Posted By: r_j
You think that 5w30 is too thin, and everyone else is telling me to use 0w20 or 5w20. If I did use 10w50 how badly would my mpg be affected?
First of all try to find a 10w-50 oil. Its a motorcycle spec so we can already discount this advise.
ALL I've EVER run is 5w30 in my 2005. In temps WELL over 110 degrees with 5w30 conventional no problems. In temps WELL below zero no problems.
All in a 1ZZFE engine that the 2000 also had. No piston noise. No problems PERIOD.
Your vehicle has the 5000 mile or 6 months then that is what I'd do with ANY 5w-20 and be well protected. If you want to run a 5w30 I'd bet it would be fine too.
But a "motorcycle" oil like 10w-50? Please...
Not a chance EVER.
Bill
You think that 5w30 is too thin, and everyone else is telling me to use 0w20 or 5w20. If I did use 10w50 how badly would my mpg be affected?
First of all try to find a 10w-50 oil. Its a motorcycle spec so we can already discount this advise.
ALL I've EVER run is 5w30 in my 2005. In temps WELL over 110 degrees with 5w30 conventional no problems. In temps WELL below zero no problems.
All in a 1ZZFE engine that the 2000 also had. No piston noise. No problems PERIOD.
Your vehicle has the 5000 mile or 6 months then that is what I'd do with ANY 5w-20 and be well protected. If you want to run a 5w30 I'd bet it would be fine too.
But a "motorcycle" oil like 10w-50? Please...
Not a chance EVER.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: r_j
You think that 5w30 is too thin, and everyone else is telling me to use 0w20 or 5w20. If I did use 10w50 how badly would my mpg be affected?
First of all try to find a 10w-50 oil. Its a motorcycle spec so we can already discount this advise.
ALL I've EVER run is 5w30 in my 2005. In temps WELL over 110 degrees with 5w30 conventional no problems. In temps WELL below zero no problems.
All in a 1ZZFE engine that the 2000 also had. No piston noise. No problems PERIOD.
Your vehicle has the 5000 mile or 6 months then that is what I'd do with ANY 5w-20 and be well protected. If you want to run a 5w30 I'd bet it would be fine too.
But a "motorcycle" oil like 10w-50? Please...
Not a chance EVER.
Bill
i would like to see a video of your engine bay. i'm sure your corolla develops diesel like knocking sound now because of that oil. 1zz-fe are very sensitive to thin oil. resulting wear in this engine causes an increase in piston to cylinder bore clearance and hence you get excessive piston slap. as i said before 10w-50 only in summer/hot climate and 5w30 for winter. this is for conventional oil only. for synthetic i use german castrol 0w30 which is closer to 40 weight oil in operating temperatures. my OCI is around 10,000km depending on which car (GC 0w-30). when i had my '00 corolla, it really liked 5w30 castrol gtx hm in winter. as for mileage, even with 10w-50 it would never get below 30mpg and i did quite a bit of rush hour driving. in idle at warm engine temperatures it used 0.7Liters per hour of gas according to my scangauge in neutral (all acc off). which was the same as with any other oil.
Originally Posted By: r_j
You think that 5w30 is too thin, and everyone else is telling me to use 0w20 or 5w20. If I did use 10w50 how badly would my mpg be affected?
First of all try to find a 10w-50 oil. Its a motorcycle spec so we can already discount this advise.
ALL I've EVER run is 5w30 in my 2005. In temps WELL over 110 degrees with 5w30 conventional no problems. In temps WELL below zero no problems.
All in a 1ZZFE engine that the 2000 also had. No piston noise. No problems PERIOD.
Your vehicle has the 5000 mile or 6 months then that is what I'd do with ANY 5w-20 and be well protected. If you want to run a 5w30 I'd bet it would be fine too.
But a "motorcycle" oil like 10w-50? Please...
Not a chance EVER.
Bill
i would like to see a video of your engine bay. i'm sure your corolla develops diesel like knocking sound now because of that oil. 1zz-fe are very sensitive to thin oil. resulting wear in this engine causes an increase in piston to cylinder bore clearance and hence you get excessive piston slap. as i said before 10w-50 only in summer/hot climate and 5w30 for winter. this is for conventional oil only. for synthetic i use german castrol 0w30 which is closer to 40 weight oil in operating temperatures. my OCI is around 10,000km depending on which car (GC 0w-30). when i had my '00 corolla, it really liked 5w30 castrol gtx hm in winter. as for mileage, even with 10w-50 it would never get below 30mpg and i did quite a bit of rush hour driving. in idle at warm engine temperatures it used 0.7Liters per hour of gas according to my scangauge in neutral (all acc off). which was the same as with any other oil.
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Really a 50 viscosity oil in a modern engine with no mechanical or consumption problems? Get out of here! That is just bad advice even if his engine was modified to 1/4 mile runs on at the race track I would not just flat out use a 50 viscosity anything. Let alone a Toyota 1ZZFE. Come on man!
Originally Posted By: pickler
i would like to see a video of your engine bay. i'm sure your corolla develops diesel like knocking sound now because of that oil. 1zz-fe are very sensitive to thin oil. resulting wear in this engine causes an increase in piston to cylinder bore clearance and hence you get excessive piston slap. as i said before 10w-50 only in summer/hot climate and 5w30 for winter. this is for conventional oil only. for synthetic i use german castrol 0w30 which is closer to 40 weight oil in operating temperatures. my OCI is around 10,000km depending on which car (GC 0w-30). when i had my '00 corolla, it really liked 5w30 castrol gtx hm in winter. as for mileage, even with 10w-50 it would never get below 30mpg and i did quite a bit of rush hour driving. in idle at warm engine temperatures it used 0.7Liters per hour of gas according to my scangauge in neutral (all acc off). which was the same as with any other oil.
Oh this is too easy...
238,434 miles on the odo.
Never seen anything but 5w30 (mostly conventional)
Here is around 30 seconds at idle. You'll hear the valve train (same as it was since new) and the injectors.
As far as MPG the last few tanks;
44.6
44.1
43.2
43.6
42.8
Next.. Bill
i would like to see a video of your engine bay. i'm sure your corolla develops diesel like knocking sound now because of that oil. 1zz-fe are very sensitive to thin oil. resulting wear in this engine causes an increase in piston to cylinder bore clearance and hence you get excessive piston slap. as i said before 10w-50 only in summer/hot climate and 5w30 for winter. this is for conventional oil only. for synthetic i use german castrol 0w30 which is closer to 40 weight oil in operating temperatures. my OCI is around 10,000km depending on which car (GC 0w-30). when i had my '00 corolla, it really liked 5w30 castrol gtx hm in winter. as for mileage, even with 10w-50 it would never get below 30mpg and i did quite a bit of rush hour driving. in idle at warm engine temperatures it used 0.7Liters per hour of gas according to my scangauge in neutral (all acc off). which was the same as with any other oil.
Oh this is too easy...
238,434 miles on the odo.
Never seen anything but 5w30 (mostly conventional)
Here is around 30 seconds at idle. You'll hear the valve train (same as it was since new) and the injectors.
As far as MPG the last few tanks;
44.6
44.1
43.2
43.6
42.8
Next.. Bill
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Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Never seen anything but 5w30 (mostly conventional)
Bill, you're doomed. Without a $10 a quart synthetic, and a thick one to boot, you'll never make it to the 239,000 miles. Be prepared for a giant failure around next Monday, given the number of miles you put on. You've obviously been on borrowed time.
Never seen anything but 5w30 (mostly conventional)
Bill, you're doomed. Without a $10 a quart synthetic, and a thick one to boot, you'll never make it to the 239,000 miles. Be prepared for a giant failure around next Monday, given the number of miles you put on. You've obviously been on borrowed time.
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