Need oil for 1935 Plymouth
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Old cars that suddenly use modern detergent oils can indeed have problems.
Stuff breaks loose or clogs things.
All engines are not heavily deposited, so this of course is an individual thing.
But there can be problems.
Stuff breaks loose or clogs things.
All engines are not heavily deposited, so this of course is an individual thing.
But there can be problems.
The recommended oil change interval for Chrysler cars of that era is 2500-3000 miles during the summer with normal driving. See Chrysler Oil Recommendations for more information.
I would use a 10W-30 HDEO in your engine. HDEOs clean slowly so, if you have a sludged-up engine, change the oil more frequently. The detergent/dispersant in HDEOs will keep the contaminants suspended so I would expect that they would prevent sludge from doing any clogging. See Corvair Oil Article, p17, Bottom Line Recommendation #10.
I would use a 10W-30 HDEO in your engine. HDEOs clean slowly so, if you have a sludged-up engine, change the oil more frequently. The detergent/dispersant in HDEOs will keep the contaminants suspended so I would expect that they would prevent sludge from doing any clogging. See Corvair Oil Article, p17, Bottom Line Recommendation #10.
Thanks guys, I ended up buying some Rotella T 15W-40 because I couldn't find the 10W-30. Napa is getting me a filter (P-70 interchange) for it, as well.
The car is really nice and I love driving it. Everyone gives me thumbs up, which is cool. I'll tell you a secret though: I am only 28 and have owned only fuel injected cars. But I work on my cars quite frequently (I am a EE in my day job). After moving into this house 2+ years ago, my neighbor eventually approached me and explained about her husband and the car. She asked if I had ever worked on an old car. I grinned because I knew it would be fun. And it has been. I love fuel injection but everything is so simple on this car. I changed the carb in like 20 minutes, first time ever, no manual. Gotta love that.
The car appears to be very well engineered for the time period, and according to research, was probably one of the best cars of the decade as far as overall design quality and durability. And I'm a GM guy
Anyway, I changed the carb because the threads leading into the bowl were actually totally stripped. Her husband had a totally functional carb sitting on the shelf so I put it on. Seems like maybe the secondary/power jet/valve may still be clogged based on drivability.
I had a problem with the water separator gasket breaking up and clogging the screen, stranding me multiple times until I figured out what it was. Probably the E10 gas.
Had a fuel pump problem that also stranded me. The pin that the diaphragm arm rides on actually fell out. I took everything apart, and found a spare fuel pump on the shelf. I put that on but it had a bad check valve. So I put the old fuel pump back together and put it back on - it's been fine since.
Then I had a charging problem requiring me to learn all about points-style voltage regulators. Got the points filed and adjusted and it seems to charge now.
Had a serious braking problem which turned out to be just low fluid. I filled up the master, and pumped the brakes like 100 times. Brakes work well now, with a high pedal, and I never had to bleed anything. This would be impossible with the ABS on my cars.
Set the idle, changed the oil filter oil, topped off the coolant, cleaned the spark plugs (they are in good shape and I was diagnosing a no-start condition).
So.....I figured time to change the oil, too
It's given me no problems the last few times I've taken it out.
One thing's for sure - I'm not going to let it sit and rot. It needs to be driven occasionally, based on the things it needed to go back in service after sitting for 5 years.
The car is really nice and I love driving it. Everyone gives me thumbs up, which is cool. I'll tell you a secret though: I am only 28 and have owned only fuel injected cars. But I work on my cars quite frequently (I am a EE in my day job). After moving into this house 2+ years ago, my neighbor eventually approached me and explained about her husband and the car. She asked if I had ever worked on an old car. I grinned because I knew it would be fun. And it has been. I love fuel injection but everything is so simple on this car. I changed the carb in like 20 minutes, first time ever, no manual. Gotta love that.
The car appears to be very well engineered for the time period, and according to research, was probably one of the best cars of the decade as far as overall design quality and durability. And I'm a GM guy
Anyway, I changed the carb because the threads leading into the bowl were actually totally stripped. Her husband had a totally functional carb sitting on the shelf so I put it on. Seems like maybe the secondary/power jet/valve may still be clogged based on drivability.
I had a problem with the water separator gasket breaking up and clogging the screen, stranding me multiple times until I figured out what it was. Probably the E10 gas.
Had a fuel pump problem that also stranded me. The pin that the diaphragm arm rides on actually fell out. I took everything apart, and found a spare fuel pump on the shelf. I put that on but it had a bad check valve. So I put the old fuel pump back together and put it back on - it's been fine since.
Then I had a charging problem requiring me to learn all about points-style voltage regulators. Got the points filed and adjusted and it seems to charge now.
Had a serious braking problem which turned out to be just low fluid. I filled up the master, and pumped the brakes like 100 times. Brakes work well now, with a high pedal, and I never had to bleed anything. This would be impossible with the ABS on my cars.
Set the idle, changed the oil filter oil, topped off the coolant, cleaned the spark plugs (they are in good shape and I was diagnosing a no-start condition).
So.....I figured time to change the oil, too
It's given me no problems the last few times I've taken it out.
One thing's for sure - I'm not going to let it sit and rot. It needs to be driven occasionally, based on the things it needed to go back in service after sitting for 5 years.
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its adviseable to use a lead substitute with the gas, to help keep the valves clean, along with the compression rings
Good for you for helping out, and glad you're enjoying the experience in the meantime. I know that you aren't the car's owner, but you sound like a very good "caretaker". If you're interested, the Plymouth Owners Club is an excellent resource for cars such as this.
A great looking car.
Always a sad story though, guy retires and starts having fun, then dies.
Always a sad story though, guy retires and starts having fun, then dies.
That carb was not designed for E10. It does not have big enough jets. How much? 5-10% too small. It really needs to be cleaned out, in any event. Deposits from old crud and sitting are in the passages and jets.
Any 6 V generator system with a mechanical regulator reeks compared to modern 12V and alternators with solid state regulators.
The 15-40 is very good and safe.
But I'll bet that car called originally for 20W, and maybe they also recommended gas added to the oil for winter!
Speaking of gas, use Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel, at 4-5 ounces per 10 gal gas. It will clean things, and also importantly lube things, like valve guides and cushion valve/valve seats [no lead in the gas. remember?].
Your fuel tank is likley a nightmare inside, and MMO will slowly help with that. Keep your fuel filter clean.
Any 6 V generator system with a mechanical regulator reeks compared to modern 12V and alternators with solid state regulators.
The 15-40 is very good and safe.
But I'll bet that car called originally for 20W, and maybe they also recommended gas added to the oil for winter!
Speaking of gas, use Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel, at 4-5 ounces per 10 gal gas. It will clean things, and also importantly lube things, like valve guides and cushion valve/valve seats [no lead in the gas. remember?].
Your fuel tank is likley a nightmare inside, and MMO will slowly help with that. Keep your fuel filter
I have been adding MMO. On the last tank I added 20oz Techron and that actually seemed to make a difference in drivability. On the other hand, it made the gas gauge do funny things, so perhaps it is cleaning off the wiper.
As far as the fuel filter, it just has a settling bowl near the fuel pump, and a small water separator at the carb. I'll keep my eye on them as I clean it out.
In other news, the P-70 filter seemed to be a hair too big. I didn't actually try it but by holding it next to the filter housing, and comparing the diameter of the included gasket, it doesn't look right. On the housing was stamped "P-709" but the Napa guy said that one is like 8 inches tall, so that isn't right, either. I am just going to have to pull it out and look at it, or bring it into Napa and see if they can look it up by measurement. The filter housing says Chrysler Full Flow or something similar on it.
As far as the fuel filter, it just has a settling bowl near the fuel pump, and a small water separator at the carb. I'll keep my eye on them as I clean it out.
In other news, the P-70 filter seemed to be a hair too big. I didn't actually try it but by holding it next to the filter housing, and comparing the diameter of the included gasket, it doesn't look right. On the housing was stamped "P-709" but the Napa guy said that one is like 8 inches tall, so that isn't right, either. I am just going to have to pull it out and look at it, or bring it into Napa and see if they can look it up by measurement. The filter housing says Chrysler Full Flow or something similar on it.
the fleetguard # LF 574, this is the oil filter i use on my chrysler flathead driven pump, as far as i know it should be the same for your application
That is a really cool car and I am a bit jealous that you have such a kind neighbor who if trusting you with it. Cars like that are certainly pieces of history that must be maintained but more importantly must be driven and exposed to younger generations. Thx for the photos too!
I remember they had one of those 1935 Business Coupes on American Pickers a few weeks ago. I don't know anything about them, just wanted to chime in and say that what you're doing is cool and I'm envious!
Finally pulled the old filter out. It was a Wix (Carcraft brand) that cross references to a Napa FIL-1080, which I ordered.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=FIL1080_0192951607#
Application list:
http://info.rockauto.com/WIX/DetailWIX.htm?www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51080
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartApplications.asp?Part=51080
It is definitely not the original oil filter. The original would have been a sock filter, I think.
When I removed the drain plug, I realized that the gasket was homemade from a sheet of copper. It was very thin and did seem to be weeping a bit. I drove all over town and I ended up ordering a 7/8" copper gasket from a parts store. The drain plug seems to be a 7/8-18.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=FIL1080_0192951607#
Application list:
http://info.rockauto.com/WIX/DetailWIX.htm?www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51080
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartApplications.asp?Part=51080
It is definitely not the original oil filter. The original would have been a sock filter, I think.
When I removed the drain plug, I realized that the gasket was homemade from a sheet of copper. It was very thin and did seem to be weeping a bit. I drove all over town and I ended up ordering a 7/8" copper gasket from a parts store. The drain plug seems to be a 7/8-18.
Wal-Mart's now carrying Shell Rotella 10W-30 HDEO synthetic blend. I think that might be a good candidate...
Great pics. I personally think that any SM 5W30 or 10W30 or even a 5W20 would work fine, and much better than most of these engines ever saw or required. An HD oil would work fine too but that's more necessary for a mid 50's and later OHV engine. My reasoning is I can't imagine a flathead from the 30's requires much zddp. Plus this car has an oil filter and detergents would most likely do it good. But an HD oil would be good too, ideally 10W30 since this engine probably ran on straight 20W originally.
Yeah I just didn't feel like going to Walmart for oil, otherwise I probably would have chosen the 10W-30 HDEO.
I have no idea what you should do oil wise, but that is one incredible car. It must look like it did in the 30s.
Finally finished the oil change. I drained the oil filter housing which brought total oil usage to about 5.5 quarts.
I also greased a bunch of points at the front end and 4 at the rear. I am not sure what to do with that leather wrap around the U-joints.
I also greased a bunch of points at the front end and 4 at the rear. I am not sure what to do with that leather wrap around the U-joints.
I believe you have a ball & trunnion joint under the leather wrap. I'm not sure what was called for in 1935 but my 1965 Chrysler service manual recommends universal joint grease for the B&T.
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