Need manual for Tecumseh snowblower engine

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JeremyInMT

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Hello small engine fans! I'm a bit new here, but enjoying the discussion on the finer points of motor oil, etc. I have run into something I need help with and this seemed like the place to ask. I have a Cub Cadet 1028 snowblower given to me by my grandfather. The thing looks nearly brand new but is over 10 years old. I have fired it up (should have come here first!) and cleared my driveway twice. Now I realize I should have gone over the carb, changed oil and plugs and probably more. Only thing is, I can't find a manual for this motor anywhere. I've not done much maintenance on small motors before, but if I see how to do it, I'm handy enough I think I can swing it. Anyone able to help? Much appreciated if you are willing.
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EDIT: the motor is a Tecumseh of some sort. I suppose 10hp since it's a 28" width?
 
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Might be a 8HP snowking. Do a web search for the engine manual PDF.
I wouldnt even touch the spark plug - should last the rated service life of the engine (250-300hrs). jUST CHANGE THE OIL AND PUT IN GOOD GAS - THE BELTS AND CABLES FOR THE TRANSMISSION ARE THE CRITICAL ITEM ON THESE THING AS WELL AS COMBATING RUST. Opoops! Sorry about the capslock- im not going to retype this though...
 
Gramps had drained the gas years ago, so it's freshly squeezed.
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It seems like it runs rich. Even after it's warmed up, it still seems as though the choke was still on just a bit. Also, when I look at the muffler "box", there is a glowing red ring in there! I haven't used it since I noticed this.
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I'll put the spark plug back in and change the oil. That's the other thing. Where is the oil drain port? I looked around a bit last night, but didn't have time to fully inspect.

If it helps, I believe the snowblower is between 12 and 16 years old roughly. Are the tranny belts/cables underneath or are they underneath the plastic guard in front of the engine and behind the snow chute?
 
ARCOgraphite quote: "should last the rated service life of the engine (250-300hrs)."

That couldn't be further from the truth. With reasonable maintenance, those engines will last ten times that. I'd bet that the engine has already surpassed 250-300 hrs. of service.

Look for a piece of pipe approx. 1/2" dia. coming out of the base of the engine. It should be the drain pipe. You might need to hold the pipe with a pair of vice grips to remove the cap. Otherwise the whole pipe will come out and oil will drain all over the machine. Make sure the engine is good and hot before changing the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
ARCOgraphite quote: "should last the rated service life of the engine (250-300hrs)."

That couldn't be further from the truth. With reasonable maintenance, those engines will last ten times that. I'd bet that the engine has already surpassed 250-300 hrs. of service.

.....


Thats what the Tecumseh manual states as service life for the engine. So I guess they lie? It did sound too short to me at first glance. Just do a calc: est: 12hours/year = 20 years service.
 
boraticus:
I couldnt find the service life chart for the SK8 engine, so dont take the 300hrs as "gospel" (yet). Mine's blowing oil like crazy at startup at 10 years old. Started after I ran 2oz of MMO for one snow event last year before an OC
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: boraticus
ARCOgraphite quote: "should last the rated service life of the engine (250-300hrs)."

That couldn't be further from the truth. With reasonable maintenance, those engines will last ten times that. I'd bet that the engine has already surpassed 250-300 hrs. of service.

.....


Thats what the Tecumseh manual states as service life for the engine. So I guess they lie? It did sound too short to me at first glance. Just do a calc: est: 12hours/year = 20 years service.


The 250 to 300 hrs. is the EPA emissions standards requirement. Not the service life of the engine. Those old Tecumseh L head engines will run forever if the oil is kept up.
 
A little rich isn't bad as long as it revs cleanly when the governor calls for it. You probably have a little screw on the bottom of your carb you can turn in a little to lean it out. But the exhaust of these things stinks of gas even when they're running right.

Usually the oil drain is a plug on the end of a couple inches of pipe coming out the bottom of the motor. The pipe helps it clear the frame of the blower.

More than likely stamped on the engine somewhere will be a bunch of numbers you can decode to get HP, date made, etc.
 
You will have to find letters and numbers for the engine somewhere.

When you find them call partstree, or Tecumseh at 1 800 558 5402

You can use an un-lit propane tourch to determine if it is running rich or lean.

At that age it probably could use a new black ring for the carb bowl.
 
First of all, many thanks here to all who have pitched in. I found the oil drain, but haven't had time to do the maintenance yet, but hopefully I'll get to it here in the next week. It's tucked away in the corner still because a neighbor has been plowing my driveway and sidewalk for me this winter. I have to get my SB fixed this week because despite paying him, I feel kinda bad about it. I'll post my results when I get done, and thanks again for all the advice.
 
spark plug seems to be ok I guess. changed the oil. I had some maxlife synblend 5w-30 so I used that and topped it off with a tiny bit of 5w-30 castrol gtx. Still sputters when warmed up. time to play with the carb I guess.
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