So I actually increases the idle speed a bit when I saw that video. Mine isn’t hunting but doing a lean misfire. I am going to try super cleaning it or adjusting it. If that doesn’t work, I am going to buy an extra jet and drill it out.
Inverter and gas tank . You can or slide it off completely unless you pull enough to lift the fuel tank.What's in the way of the carburetor sliding off the studs?
The screw that The_Eric is referring to is #7 on the drawing. Take it out with a straight slot screwdriver that fills the slot completely.Okay, so the carb is really not adjustble? I mean asside from perhaps drilling out the jet a little?
Can you link me to some jet reamers and jet wires?The screw that The_Eric is referring to is #7 on the drawing. Take it out with a straight slot screwdriver that fills the slot completely.
You wouldn't be drilling it out. You would be reaming the hole with special jet reamers. Drill bits don't get the hole concentric.
The 1st step now is to remove that screw to see if the screw itself has a hole through it, or if it's covering a hole.
After that, if the screw is indeed covering a hole, you'll need to find out what diameter the hole is. You would do that with jet wires.
You're probably not wrong, but in my experience a drill bit of the appropriate diameter will still do the job.The screw that The_Eric is referring to is #7 on the drawing. Take it out with a straight slot screwdriver that fills the slot completely.
You wouldn't be drilling it out. You would be reaming the hole with special jet reamers. Drill bits don't get the hole concentric.
The 1st step now is to remove that screw to see if the screw itself has a hole through it, or if it's covering a hole.
After that, if the screw is indeed covering a hole, you'll need to find out what diameter the hole is. You would do that with jet wires.
Well. IT's FIXED!So does that screw have a hole all the way through it or is it a tapered needle type? Typically moving the screw, if it's the needle type, will control how much fuel enters the carb. Just make sure to turn this screw in and count the turns until it seats lightly. You can then turn it back out the same number and then make 1/4 turn adjustments (in or out) until it stops the lean misfire.
I have a feeling that the round brass piece just to the left of the jet screw is a cover over the low speed jet, and the screw controls how much air is introduced into the circuit. Commonly, you drill a small hole in that cover, twist in a screw a couple of turns, and pull the cover out. Depending on how that is set-up, it could be a removable jet inside, or a fixed orifice. Either way, if thats the case, make sure its clean. Just remember, you'd have to source another cover if you take this one out.
Good deal, and good fix! Surprised the screw has a hole in it and is exposed to outside, unfiltered air. To me that would subject it to something getting inside and plugging it up. Well now that you know how it all works, if it starts running rough, or lean misfiring again, start with cleaning out (or heck, replacing for that price) the jet screw. Seems like this is where the problem was, and not necessarily dirt or a clog, but just not big enough to deliver sufficient fuel. Again, good job!.Well. IT's FIXED!
The jet is NOT tapered and NOT adjustable. It has a hole through the screw. The part in #7 on the 2019 catalog is NOT the same pilot jet the carburetor came with. The 2024 Yamaha EF2200IS has smaller holes in the pilot jet!
Just swapping to that new jet I ordered clearly is making this machine run so much better. It is night and day!
I will post another video soon, but it is at least 99% better. Might not be 100% in that it is close to where it could misfire if it loses any more fuel, but it can run for 10 minutes plus, take a load and unload and not be missing more than maybe once when it changes RPM. Then it steadies itself within +/-10 RPM and holds.
It is running VASTLY much better now.