Need help removing windshield scratches

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On the Sedona, that is. The previous owner did a good job neglecting the wipers/windshield, so the windshield has very fine lines in the path that the wipers move. There is a DIY online where Ceriglass is used, with glass buffing pads and a good orbital buffer. The before shots are actually worse than my windshield, and the after shots show a like-new windshield. I am amazed!

Here's the thing... the Ceriglass is cheap. The glass buffing pads (the Griot's ones are quite good, from my research) are cheap. But, I do not have an orbital buffer, DA, or buffer of any kind. I do have a good cordless drill that I could buy a buffing plate for, if that would be effective.

FWIW, the Ceriglass instructions recommend somewhere near 1,000 RPM (this is according to the OP in the DIY. I don't see this RPM listed on the product site) for a straight orbital buffer, but others have had good results at higher speeds as well. Here's what I was looking at:
6" orbital buffer

The issue is that I dont wan't to spend a lot on a buffer that I'll probably never use again. This buffer linked is a random orbital at a set speed of 4,400 RPM. I'm not against buying good/expensive tools, as I have many for my line of work. I just don't want to waste my money. If this inexpensive buffer will get me decent results, I will try it. Thoughts or alteratives?
 
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HF sells a Dual-Action polisher for $60, and you can find a 25% off coupon online.

You'll need to replace the backing plate with a 5" backing plate, which costs about $15.

Considering that this would cost you under $100 for everything, it's better than replacing your windshield with an aftermarket one.
 
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Who needs a buffer?

Use some elbow grease....

You said the scratches are light, right?


The abrasives in the CeriGlass need a DA or rotary for proper functionality.
 
Has anybody seen CeriGlass personally? It might be possible to hide the waviness in photos but it would be obvious on the buffed out glass if you have the correct lighting. I don't remember if Ciritc has seen it working by his own eyes.
 
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Has anybody seen CeriGlass personally? It might be possible to hide the waviness in photos but it would be obvious on the buffed out glass if you have the correct lighting. I don't remember if Ciritc has seen it working by his own eyes.


I plan to use it next weekend. Judging from the reviews though, it appears to work as advertised. YMMV, of course, as technique tends to be a huge variable with these "enthusiast" products.
 
Any drawbacks to a product like this? The windshield on my wife's MDX has a good deal of fine scratches in the path of the wipers. I'm not sure if it's preventable but if it is the previous owner didn't do anything to stop it.
 
Originally Posted By: gofast182
Any drawbacks to a product like this? The windshield on my wife's MDX has a good deal of fine scratches in the path of the wipers. I'm not sure if it's preventable but if it is the previous owner didn't do anything to stop it.

Not sure, but as with most enthusiast products, the outcome is probably going to be quite dependent on the user's technique.
 
Originally Posted By: gofast182
Any drawbacks to a product like this? The windshield on my wife's MDX has a good deal of fine scratches in the path of the wipers. I'm not sure if it's preventable but if it is the previous owner didn't do anything to stop it.


Any issues would be user induced. Heat generation would be the biggest issue, with the potential of burn marks or cracking. Water is supposed to be used to cool the windshield.
 
Originally Posted By: gofast182
Any drawbacks to a product like this? The windshield on my wife's MDX has a good deal of fine scratches in the path of the wipers. I'm not sure if it's preventable but if it is the previous owner didn't do anything to stop it.

Just tried the product today and it delivers. It was able to remove light scratches (that you could feel with your fingernail) after 5-6 passes with a Flex 3401 and speed 5. The trick to using this stuff is to mist the surface with water every 2 passes. The polish dries out very quickly (sort of like M105, but worse), but misting it with water will "re-activate" it.

I would only use the CarPro glass pads and keep them cleaned after each section. The pads seem to work best if they've been primed, which is a bit unusual nowadays.
 
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