Need Help On Info About Oils
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by NuttCase
Petronas Syntium 7000 0W40 is a PAO based oil according to the MSDS sheet and easily available in the UK. It has VW502/505, MB229.5, BMW LL01 and Porsche A40 approvals.
Another good option. I've never seen their products this side of the pond, do you have any experience with them?
Petronas Syntium 7000 0W40 is a PAO based oil according to the MSDS sheet and easily available in the UK. It has VW502/505, MB229.5, BMW LL01 and Porsche A40 approvals.
Another good option. I've never seen their products this side of the pond, do you have any experience with them?
Yes I have run their 7000 DM 0W30 in the C class diesel for a year and likely 7500-8500 miles. It met the MB229.51 spec (this one actually meets 229.52) and it was cheap. The oil went in brown and came out black, I can't say much more than that as I did not perform a UOA. I have always used a 0W30 or a 5W30 C3 oil and the OM651 engine runs just the same regardless - a bit noisy at idle when you are outside, but it quietens down inside and has plenty of torque. I've used Shell GTL, Petronas PAO, and a Fuchs C3 ester oil and observed no difference in performance.
Petronas are a major oil company and title partner of the current F1 championship holder so they have a high level of in house technical expertise.
EuroCarParts, a UK based auto parts and accessories store, sell their oil including the 7000 range at great prices - less than £3 per litre. I'm surprised it's profitable.
Petronas are a major oil company and title partner of the current F1 championship holder so they have a high level of in house technical expertise.
EuroCarParts, a UK based auto parts and accessories store, sell their oil including the 7000 range at great prices - less than £3 per litre. I'm surprised it's profitable.
Originally Posted by sloinker
How much oil is it burning/leaking? I've owned 1.8T VW engines in the past and they would go 3k miles without adding any and using little. I'm not sure of the design defect cited. I would take a hard look at the KombiValve and EGR systems to make sure you aren't vacuuming oil into the combustion process. The vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors on these engines are a nightmare and have high failure rates. Once you have sorted out any repairable problems, I would look for an oil with ester content or an aftermarket ester treatment to clean the ring lands and combustion chamber. I would also run a few tanks with a gasoline conditioner with PEA in it. Techroline,Red Line, Gumout or whatever. After all that, I would run Ravenol as Red Line isn't available to you.
It consumes about 700 ml every 1000 km. I am not sure if I have egr or kombivalve. I havent seen one under the hood.
From ETKA I can only see these 2 valves: 037 906 283 C and 06H 906 517 B.
There is no error code. If egr valve or kombivalve existed and failed would they leave a fault code?
There were few drops of oil inside the big throttle hose. I just dried it. But it is not a permanent solution as the oil vapor will damage everything right?
Replaced the PCV valve and no change.
How much oil is it burning/leaking? I've owned 1.8T VW engines in the past and they would go 3k miles without adding any and using little. I'm not sure of the design defect cited. I would take a hard look at the KombiValve and EGR systems to make sure you aren't vacuuming oil into the combustion process. The vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors on these engines are a nightmare and have high failure rates. Once you have sorted out any repairable problems, I would look for an oil with ester content or an aftermarket ester treatment to clean the ring lands and combustion chamber. I would also run a few tanks with a gasoline conditioner with PEA in it. Techroline,Red Line, Gumout or whatever. After all that, I would run Ravenol as Red Line isn't available to you.
It consumes about 700 ml every 1000 km. I am not sure if I have egr or kombivalve. I havent seen one under the hood.
From ETKA I can only see these 2 valves: 037 906 283 C and 06H 906 517 B.
There is no error code. If egr valve or kombivalve existed and failed would they leave a fault code?
There were few drops of oil inside the big throttle hose. I just dried it. But it is not a permanent solution as the oil vapor will damage everything right?
Replaced the PCV valve and no change.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
There's no proof that Mobil "lost" LL-01 versus simply not re-certifying to it on a reformulate. The list of LL-01 approved 0w-40's is getting pretty short at this point, most majors no longer carry it.
Since he lives in Europe and likes PAO ... Does Ravenol carry LL?
According to their website, yes. It's one of the VERY few that still does.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/04/full-21028-43797-screen_shot_2020_04_22_at_4.42.39_pm.png "[Linked Image]")
Thank you I will also consider this one.
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
There's no proof that Mobil "lost" LL-01 versus simply not re-certifying to it on a reformulate. The list of LL-01 approved 0w-40's is getting pretty short at this point, most majors no longer carry it.
Since he lives in Europe and likes PAO ... Does Ravenol carry LL?
According to their website, yes. It's one of the VERY few that still does.
Thank you I will also consider this one.
Originally Posted by NuttCase
Petronas Syntium 7000 0W40 is a PAO based oil according to the MSDS sheet and easily available in the UK. It has VW502/505, MB229.5, BMW LL01 and Porsche A40 approvals.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/04/full-83007-43799-img_2154.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Thank you
Petronas Syntium 7000 0W40 is a PAO based oil according to the MSDS sheet and easily available in the UK. It has VW502/505, MB229.5, BMW LL01 and Porsche A40 approvals.
Thank you
Originally Posted by sloinker
How much oil is it burning/leaking? I've owned 1.8T VW engines in the past and they would go 3k miles without adding any and using little. I'm not sure of the design defect cited. I would take a hard look at the KombiValve and EGR systems to make sure you aren't vacuuming oil into the combustion process. The vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors on these engines are a nightmare and have high failure rates. Once you have sorted out any repairable problems, I would look for an oil with ester content or an aftermarket ester treatment to clean the ring lands and combustion chamber. I would also run a few tanks with a gasoline conditioner with PEA in it. Techroline,Red Line, Gumout or whatever. After all that, I would run Ravenol as Red Line isn't available to you.
It consumes about 700 ml every 1000 km. I am not sure if I have egr or kombivalve. I havent seen one under the hood.
From ETKA I can only see these 2 valves: 037 906 283 C and 06H 906 517 B.
There is no error code. If egr valve or kombivalve existed and failed would they leave a fault code?
There were few drops of oil inside the big throttle hose. I just dried it. But it is not a permanent solution as the oil vapor will damage everything right?
Replaced the PCV valve and no change.
How much oil is it burning/leaking? I've owned 1.8T VW engines in the past and they would go 3k miles without adding any and using little. I'm not sure of the design defect cited. I would take a hard look at the KombiValve and EGR systems to make sure you aren't vacuuming oil into the combustion process. The vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors on these engines are a nightmare and have high failure rates. Once you have sorted out any repairable problems, I would look for an oil with ester content or an aftermarket ester treatment to clean the ring lands and combustion chamber. I would also run a few tanks with a gasoline conditioner with PEA in it. Techroline,Red Line, Gumout or whatever. After all that, I would run Ravenol as Red Line isn't available to you.
It consumes about 700 ml every 1000 km. I am not sure if I have egr or kombivalve. I havent seen one under the hood.
From ETKA I can only see these 2 valves: 037 906 283 C and 06H 906 517 B.
There is no error code. If egr valve or kombivalve existed and failed would they leave a fault code?
There were few drops of oil inside the big throttle hose. I just dried it. But it is not a permanent solution as the oil vapor will damage everything right?
Replaced the PCV valve and no change.
Originally Posted by moonlightblue
Originally Posted by kschachn
That's quite a first post full of a lot of assorted stuff.
You say you wish to reduce oil consumption by using a higher grade oil, but then delve into a discussion (complete with oil companies hiding stuff, and that Mobil 1 0W-40 is a "crappy" oil). Which is it? If you wish to try a different grade than your current 5W-30, then find one that has the approval required by your vehicle and try it. The base stock composition is largely irrelevant to that discussion, but I will say that within the VW approval you won't find a massively thicker oil since VW specifies an HTHS for the approval and that will make the various oils similar to each other.
Originally Posted by moonlightblue
Option 2 is Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40. (Liqui never tells that it is fully synthetic or PAO anywhere) What is this oil made of? Only green color paint and lots of advertisement is just steering me away from the brand rather than loving it as they hide the real specs.
That particular oil hides little in their PDS. They say the following:
Quote
LIQUI MOLY ALSO RECOMMENDS THIS PRODUCT FOR VEHICLES OR ASSEMBLIES FOR WHICH THE FOLLOWING SPECIFICATIONS OR ORIGINAL PART NUMBERS ARE REQUIRED:
ACEA A3
ACEA B4
API SN
BMW Longlife-01 (bis MJ 2018)
Fiat 9.55535-H2
Fiat 9.55535-N2
Fiat 9.55535-Z2
MB 229.5
Opel GM-LL-B-025
Porsche A40
Renault RN 0700
Renault RN 0710
VW 502 00
VW 505 00
Which means that it has no approvals at all. It is recommended for those approvals but that's as far as it goes. Doesn't mean it won't work in those applications but they are't hiding anything.
What do you really want here? Just to reduce consumption? If so, then try another oil such as the Shell Helix. That is one of the best oils on the market and carries the approval you need.
I got confused, so Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40 does not have LL01 and Vw502? As far as I know from their local website,
Molygen 5w40 has LL01 and Vw502. Am I wrong? Sorry but I am not an oil expert, so I am asking .
Another question about Molygen 5w40. Why they write Fully Synthetic on some canisters and Synthese Tech on some canisters of the exactly same Molygen 5w40 oil. It is very confusing as well.
Molygen has no official approvals, only "recommended for" which is likely due to the addition of a tungsten/moly friction modifier (they call it "MFC" - Molecular Friction Control). As far as I can tell, it's a basic VW502 00 type Group 3 "syn" oil otherwise. It's green...that has to be worth something? I just switched to it over their more standard Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 this change to see how it goes/UOAs look like.
Originally Posted by kschachn
That's quite a first post full of a lot of assorted stuff.
You say you wish to reduce oil consumption by using a higher grade oil, but then delve into a discussion (complete with oil companies hiding stuff, and that Mobil 1 0W-40 is a "crappy" oil). Which is it? If you wish to try a different grade than your current 5W-30, then find one that has the approval required by your vehicle and try it. The base stock composition is largely irrelevant to that discussion, but I will say that within the VW approval you won't find a massively thicker oil since VW specifies an HTHS for the approval and that will make the various oils similar to each other.
Originally Posted by moonlightblue
Option 2 is Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40. (Liqui never tells that it is fully synthetic or PAO anywhere) What is this oil made of? Only green color paint and lots of advertisement is just steering me away from the brand rather than loving it as they hide the real specs.
That particular oil hides little in their PDS. They say the following:
Quote
LIQUI MOLY ALSO RECOMMENDS THIS PRODUCT FOR VEHICLES OR ASSEMBLIES FOR WHICH THE FOLLOWING SPECIFICATIONS OR ORIGINAL PART NUMBERS ARE REQUIRED:
ACEA A3
ACEA B4
API SN
BMW Longlife-01 (bis MJ 2018)
Fiat 9.55535-H2
Fiat 9.55535-N2
Fiat 9.55535-Z2
MB 229.5
Opel GM-LL-B-025
Porsche A40
Renault RN 0700
Renault RN 0710
VW 502 00
VW 505 00
Which means that it has no approvals at all. It is recommended for those approvals but that's as far as it goes. Doesn't mean it won't work in those applications but they are't hiding anything.
What do you really want here? Just to reduce consumption? If so, then try another oil such as the Shell Helix. That is one of the best oils on the market and carries the approval you need.
I got confused, so Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40 does not have LL01 and Vw502? As far as I know from their local website,
Molygen 5w40 has LL01 and Vw502. Am I wrong? Sorry but I am not an oil expert, so I am asking .
Another question about Molygen 5w40. Why they write Fully Synthetic on some canisters and Synthese Tech on some canisters of the exactly same Molygen 5w40 oil. It is very confusing as well.
Molygen has no official approvals, only "recommended for" which is likely due to the addition of a tungsten/moly friction modifier (they call it "MFC" - Molecular Friction Control). As far as I can tell, it's a basic VW502 00 type Group 3 "syn" oil otherwise. It's green...that has to be worth something? I just switched to it over their more standard Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 this change to see how it goes/UOAs look like.
Originally Posted by sloinker
How much oil is it burning/leaking? I've owned 1.8T VW engines in the past and they would go 3k miles without adding any and using little. I'm not sure of the design defect cited. I would take a hard look at the KombiValve and EGR systems to make sure you aren't vacuuming oil into the combustion process. The vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors on these engines are a nightmare and have high failure rates. Once you have sorted out any repairable problems, I would look for an oil with ester content or an aftermarket ester treatment to clean the ring lands and combustion chamber. I would also run a few tanks with a gasoline conditioner with PEA in it. Techroline,Red Line, Gumout or whatever. After all that, I would run Ravenol as Red Line isn't available to you.
What would you expect to see failing at the EGR valve? It is located near the high pressure fuel pump. However I dont know how to inspect it and what should be distinctive sign of failure?
How much oil is it burning/leaking? I've owned 1.8T VW engines in the past and they would go 3k miles without adding any and using little. I'm not sure of the design defect cited. I would take a hard look at the KombiValve and EGR systems to make sure you aren't vacuuming oil into the combustion process. The vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors on these engines are a nightmare and have high failure rates. Once you have sorted out any repairable problems, I would look for an oil with ester content or an aftermarket ester treatment to clean the ring lands and combustion chamber. I would also run a few tanks with a gasoline conditioner with PEA in it. Techroline,Red Line, Gumout or whatever. After all that, I would run Ravenol as Red Line isn't available to you.
What would you expect to see failing at the EGR valve? It is located near the high pressure fuel pump. However I dont know how to inspect it and what should be distinctive sign of failure?
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