Need help choosing an oil, 200k+ Lexus ES 2002

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Use any current spec full synthetic. High mileage oil not needed unless there is oil consumption or leakage. Stick with 5w30. 0w30 can also be used. A 0w40 might mask engine noise but not needed for your climate.

You should have no problem with 6month 7.5k intervals. Oversized oil filter is an option. Keep an eye on oil level and top off as needed.
 
Well, you sure are getting a lot of responses to your question.

As you can see in my sig I have a Sienna with a 1MZ-FE, but it is from the supposed sludger years and is not VVT-i. I've had the vehicle since new and have only used synthetic oil, changed out on a relatively short OCI. There are pictures under the valve covers here on Bitog from 150,000, 230,000 miles and recently at 300,000 miles.

I started off using 5W-30 (mostly M1 with a few months of using GC), but now I use 5W-20 and have been for the past 150,000 miles or so. It gives much easier starting in the cold and but does tend to use a bit more between OCI. However, this engine does not use much oil anyway so it isn't an issue. CATERHAM is right, you can run 0W-20 just the same if you wish.

The 1MZ-FE is a great engine, with nice power and smoothness. But even with yours being a post-gelling design I still would not push overly long OCIs in it. The back bank of cylinders gets very hot in this engine, much hotter than the front. For that reason alone I would select a highly oxidatively stable synthetic oil, at least in my opinion. But that's just me. Clearly your engine has been OK with the oils it has seen.

Looking under that back bank valve cover is going to show you all you need to know about this engine. If it looks fine with what oil has been used on whatever OCI, then there's no compelling reason to change anything.
 
The Toyota brand 0W-20 is a superior lubricant to a mineral 5W-30. The fact that Toyota/Lexus has seen fit to upgrade it's oil recommendation
should be welcomed if you don't mind the additional cost.
Continuing to use a 5W-30 makes no more sense than having a current model car start using a mineral 5W-30 when it has racked up the same mileage. And dispite the marketing spin of the aftermarket oil industry in their peddling heavier "high mileage" motor oil, no OEM automatically specifies a heavier oil later in a cars' life because most engines never will need it.

If this were my car I would have started running TGMO 0W-20 the moment it was back-spec'd.
 
The recommended 5w-30 seems to be working well so far doesn't it? I don't see the reason to switch personally.
 
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Another solution in search of a problem....

OP's 3-5k mile OCI requires nothing more than a conventional oil...unless there are leaks or oil burn-off that would benefit from an HM blend...
 
Thanks, that's a lot of good information and experience.

Yes, I like to tinker and have for years. My dad started me young and we still do it together in his very nicely equipped garage. We did the timing belt, rebuilt the alternator, swapped struts, coils, etc. Keeps my hand in so I know what components look like and I catch things as they go along.

Mine looks very slightly worse than Hypervish's 1st "before" pic of his in his link. As mentioned getting into the rear bank is a bear and I am not planning to do it for 25k miles (1.5 years or so) when I need to do plugs. I'll redo the cover gaskets then as the front one weeps very slightly at the front near the cam pulley cover. That will be interesting and then I'll have 25k or so on some good synthetic(s).

I am thinking 5w30 M1 HM or ML full synthetic at 7,500 miles; watching it. If it does well then maybe try 0w-20 on 2nd or 3rd change to synthetic. I've seen PP in that grade as well as QS "Ultimate Durability" and don't hear as much about that, but am not thinking going that weight to much this moment.
 
be careful with the 5/0W-20 suggestions here guy`s. I tried the 5W-20 Synthetic oil in my last RX (2005 RX330)and it burned it with only around 100,000 miles on the odometer...
 
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Thanks, that's a lot of good information and experience.

Yes, I like to tinker and have for years. My dad started me young and we still do it together in his very nicely equipped garage. We did the timing belt, rebuilt the alternator, swapped struts, coils, etc. Keeps my hand in so I know what components look like and I catch things as they go along.

Mine looks very slightly worse than Hypervish's 1st "before" pic of his in his link. As mentioned getting into the rear bank is a bear and I am not planning to do it for 25k miles (1.5 years or so) when I need to do plugs. I'll redo the cover gaskets then as the front one weeps very slightly at the front near the cam pulley cover. That will be interesting and then I'll have 25k or so on some good synthetic(s).

I am thinking 5w30 M1 HM or ML full synthetic at 7,500 miles; watching it. If it does well then maybe try 0w-20 on 2nd or 3rd change to synthetic. I've seen PP in that grade as well as QS "Ultimate Durability" and don't hear as much about that, but am not thinking going that weight to much this moment.

Since you're mechanically inclined and like to tinker I'd suggest you do what the pro's do and have your the oil pressure checked when the engine is good and hot. This will tell you the condition of your bearings and in the process how much viscosity reserve you have on the 5W-30 you're using now. Then you can make an informed decision on whether it would be beneficial to run a heavy HM 5W-30 or the recommended 0W-20 in your high mileage car.

BTW every oil company makes the 0W-20 grade now since so many auto companies now specify it but few are on par with Toyota's own oil (TGMO) which is quite unique. The PP and QS versions are heavier than most, about 30% more than TGMO at 32F although it's high temp' viscosity is no higher.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Then you can make an informed decision on whether it would be beneficial to run a heavy HM 5W-30 or the recommended 0W-20 in your high mileage car.


STOP!

I don't know what your deal is -- for the 2nd time, let me reiterate to those who come here for factual information that:
0w-20 is not recommended for the ES300
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I don't know what you're problem is but the 0W-20 grade has indeed been back-spec'd to the MY 2002 ES300:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2457090


Ah, I figured that's what you do -- trot out the 'ol internal Lexus Canada application chart, which somehow states that a ES300 is both "5w-30 only" and "0w-20 only".

Look, if the owner wants to run 0w-20, then by all means do so. But telling him it is recommended by Lexus for his vehicle is akin to me telling someone with a 3V 5.4L F-150 that 10w-40 is great because there's an OASIS message out there floating around.

Best bet, Caterham? Contact Lexus and see if they agree with your "recommendation" (I already have). I'll be waiting.


http://www.lexus.com/contact/
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I've already given the OP my best advice for his high mileage engine. Get his oil pressure checked and use the optimum oil viscosity based on that.


OK, good idea. I imagine my dad has an oil pressure gauge in one of the chests somewhere; no problem to do it next weekend when I am tinkering changing the front struts.

I imagine I can get the specs from the FSM, but how to interpret what I find? I am searching about but not finding a "how to" on that.
 
On a high mileage engine that has been running flawlessly on 5w-30 why bother with a 5w-20? It isn't going to give you better protection.
 
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My thinking on that was from reading that it would get me:

a) better start up protection
b) better mileage.

I am hearing that it is certainly not a good idea to do immediately. And my understanding may be wrong, and why I ask before just doing it.
 
Originally Posted By: riggaz
Hang on a minute, you've got a Lexus with 224500 miles on the clock that is clean inside the engine and purrs flawlessly.

and you want someone to recommend a better oil than you have been using already??????

Are you mental???

Keep doing what you are doing with the same oil, don't change.


Well,(LOL), I take away the mental part and agree with member "riggaz" and, keep doing what you're doing!
smile.gif


I've been kind of a fan of QS oils in my wifes '01 RX-300(1MZFE) as it keep the engine running smooth and quiet and QS oils are a good value! Pennzoil too
laugh.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I've already given the OP my best advice for his high mileage engine. Get his oil pressure checked and use the optimum oil viscosity based on that.


OK, good idea. I imagine my dad has an oil pressure gauge in one of the chests somewhere; no problem to do it next weekend when I am tinkering changing the front struts.

I imagine I can get the specs from the FSM, but how to interpret what I find? I am searching about but not finding a "how to" on that.

Yes OP test spec's should be in the FSM. There usually is a spec' on idle and one at some particular elevated rpm.
While a lighter oil grade may have been back-dated, what doesn't change are the recommended minimum OP spec's.
If you have any questions on how to interpret them just PM me.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I've already given the OP my best advice for his high mileage engine. Get his oil pressure checked and use the optimum oil viscosity based on that.


OK, good idea. I imagine my dad has an oil pressure gauge in one of the chests somewhere; no problem to do it next weekend when I am tinkering changing the front struts.

I imagine I can get the specs from the FSM, but how to interpret what I find? I am searching about but not finding a "how to" on that.

Yes OP test spec's should be in the FSM. There usually is a spec' on idle and one at some particular elevated rpm.
While a lighter oil grade may have been back-dated, what doesn't change are the recommended minimum OP spec's.
If you have any questions on how to interpret them just PM me.


Here's what the FSM (for 2002 - 2003 ES300) says regarding Oil Pressure:
Quote:

At Idle: 29 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) or more
At 3,000 RPM : 245 to 539 kPa (2.5 to 5.5 kgf/cm2, 36 to 78 psi)
 
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