Need Coolant Advice for 03 Honda CRV

Carlostrece

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My neighbor is a single woman who was not maintaining her 03 Honda CRV at all. She helps me when I'm sick. I'm currently feeling adequately healthy. So my cousin and I want to help her with car maintenance. I buy supplies. My cousin does the work because he's able bodied. I'm severely handicapped.

To give you an idea of the prior lack of maintenance... Her engine was so low on oil that no oil showed on dipstick. Her coolant overflow jug cap was missing. The jug had no liquid in it. Only dust and/or rust making an unidentifiable dirt coating in the jug. At least her radiator was full.

She could not remember ever checking fluid levels nor ever changing fluids in the many years she's owned the car.

A few months ago we changed her oil to 5w20 Maxlife, added Oreilly housebrand 50/50 universal coolant to her coolant overflow jug, and installed a new Dorman cap on the jug.

Now we want to flush her cooling system and replace the coolant. We have 1.5 jugs of Oreilly 50/50 Universal coolant that I bought months ago from before I knew about Peak coolant.

Should we just use the Oreilly Universal coolant to save money (because I already own it) or should I buy Peak coolant? If I should buy Peak, which version?
 
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If the CR-V was in good condition, I would advise you to get the SuperTech Asian Blue coolant from WalMart since it does not contain 2EHA as specified by Honda. However, since the vehicle has been neglected/abused, it probably would not cause any additional risk to use the O'Reilly universal coolant you already have.
The CRV is in shockingly good condition in spite of years of severe neglect. After we changed the oil it started right up and ran smooth and quiet. Apprently all it needs is an adequate amount of oil to work well. It didn't run as well when it was 2.5+ quarts low. 😬😮‍💨🙄🤣

It runs good now. So I think it's salvagable with some maintenance.
 
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My Buick is using Peak Titanium coolant, which I think is 2EHA free?

If I was going to use something other than Oreilly Universal for CRV, then it'd be most handy and cost effective to use Peak Titanium so I could stock 1 coolant for use in her CRV and my Buick.

Using Oreilly Universal would also be cost effective and convenient because I already own 2 jugs of it. Is Oreilly Universal Coolant 2EHA free?
 
I would use a 'Blue' coolant as specified by Honda. Zerex/Supertech/Etc. There are plenty out there.

Reason being.

You and your brother might not be there for her the next time she has the vehicle serviced, and if it is done by a shop, they are going to want to use a 'blue' coolant in it and you don't want to go mixing things up.

I know you said she doesn't really maintain things, but I still feel like using the 'right' coolant in it would be a good idea.
 
Using Oreilly Universal would also be cost effective and convenient because I already own 2 jugs of it. Is Oreilly Universal Coolant 2EHA free?
I am not certain, but I believe the O'Reilly Universal Coolant contains 2EHA in it. Look at the back of the bottle where it lists the ingredients. It will state 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate if it contains 2EHA.
 
Peak's website product finder specifies Peak All Vehicles for 03 Honda CR-V. I wonder why it specifies Peak All Vehicles instead of Peak Asian Blue? I'm not doubting you guys though.

I'll buy an Asian Blue by Peak, Zerex, or Supertec. If those 3 brands are equally good, then I'll let price and availability decide what I buy and from whom. Since I already buy my oil at Walmart, it'd be convenient to buy coolant locally at Walmart.

I won't buy coolant or oil from Amazon because they have a bad history of damage in shipping causing leaking jugs.
 
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The following are OE Asian Blue choices that are locally available.

Prices per gallon...

50/50
Peak $19 at Walmart, $18 NAPA
Zerex $18 at Walmart, $20 Oreilly
Supertec $12 at Walmart *Great price!
NAPA $21

Concentrate
None at Walmart
Zerex $23 at Oreilly
Peak $23 Napa

Those ^ are my local choices for Asian Blue.

I love the Supertec 50/50 price, but how to get Supertec concentrate Asian Blue? Is Supertec as good as those others?

If I can't get Supertec concentrate from Walmart, then I'll get Peak concentrate from NAPA.

I already have a trip planned to go to NAPA & Walmart for other things. They're only 2 blocks apart from each other and only 15 blocks from my home.
 
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The following are OE Asian Blue choices that are locally available.

Prices per gallon...

50/50
Peak $19 at Walmart, $18 NAPA
Zerex $18 at Walmart, $20 Oreilly
Supertec $12 at Walmart *Great price!
NAPA $21

Concentrate
None at Walmart
Zerex $23 at Oreilly
Peak $23 Napa

Those ^ are my local choices for Asian Blue.

I love the Supertec 50/50 price, but how to get Supertec concentrate Asian Blue? Is Supertec as good as those others?
The SuperTech Asian blue is not available as a concentrate, only 50/50% pre-mix. I'm not positive about it now, but SuperTech Asian (blue, red or green) used to be sourced from Recochem (a major Canadian manufacturer of many OEM coolants).
If I can't get Supertec concentrate from Walmart, then I'll get Peak concentrate from NAPA.
Is there a reason you prefer the concentrate? For that CR-V, I'd just drain, flush and replace with the 50/50% pre-mix.
 
Is there a reason you prefer the concentrate? For that CR-V, I'd just drain, flush and replace with the 50/50% prpre-mix.
After flushing, there will be water in the block. If I then filled radiator with 50/50 the end result would be less than 50/50.

Water in block + 50/50 in radiator = less than 50/50 mix in system

Water in block + Concentrate in radiator = approx 50/50 in system
 
Water in block + 50/50 in radiator = less than 50/50 mix in system

Water in block + Concentrate in radiator = approx 50/50 in system
You don't know what's left in the engine so whatever you use is still a guess unless you use a refractometer. Make it 50/50 in the radiator and be done with it. If you end up 55/45 (in either direction), it will still be fine.
 
You don't know what's left in the engine so whatever you use is still a guess unless you use a refractometer. Make it 50/50 in the radiator and be done with it. If you end up 55/45 (in either direction), it will still be fine.
My cousin will flush the system with water first. So then there'll be water in the block and heater core.

Math says...

50/50 in radiator + water in block = approx 25 coolant/75 water in system

Concentrate in radiator + water in block = approx 50/50 in system
 
Unless the water in the block used to flush is distilled my advice would be to run 50/50 mix of whatever coolant you choose. Run it for about 2 hours. Then drain and fill with the coolant you will use. Then no mineral laden water in the block. No guessing if you have the right mix, and still not particularly expensive to perform. With the benefit of cleaning out the system at least some.
 
The CR-V in question has the same K24 engine and cooling system as my 2003 Honda Element. Its cooling system capacity is 7.5 quarts (total). If you disconnect the lower radiator hose to perform the flush, approximately 5.5 gallons will drain from the radiator, engine block and heater core. Thus, 2 quarts of residual water remains in the system. I have always added 50/50% pre-mix into the system until it overflows, then I warm up the engine using the oversize Lisle radiator funnel to burp out the trapped air. Based upon my calculations, this technique will result in a ~40% coolant to 60% water ratio. The ratio is somewhat >40% coolant if I allow some of the residual flush water to be expelled from an elevated discharge point as I fill the coolant. According to the PEAK coolant table, the 40/60% mixture will protect down to minus 12 degrees Fahrenheit. It's good enough for coastal Virginia, but I can't speak for Oregon.
 
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How much water will be in the block ? How much does the radiator hold ?
According to CR-V forums where I did a little lurking... Approx 2 gallons total in the system. Half in radiator + overflow jug. The other half in block + heater core.

I will flush system with distilled water 3 times. So then just distilled water in entire system. Then drain water from radiator and oveflow jug. Refill radiator with concentrate, burp it, and top off radiator, and fill overflow jug to full mark with concentrate. Should then be approx 50/50 in system.

And run the heater during flushing, refilling, burping, and topping off.

Same with my Buick Park Ave, except double the volume and I used Peak Titanium yellow in the Buick.
 
The CR-V in question has the same K24 engine and cooling system as my 2003 Honda Element. Its cooling system capacity is 7.5 quarts (total). If you disconnect the lower radiator hose to perform the flush, approximately 5.5 quarts will drain from the radiator, engine block and heater core. Thus, 2 quarts of residual water remains in the system. I have always added 50/50% pre-mix into the system until it overflows, then I warm up the engine using the oversize Lisle radiator funnel to burp out the trapped air. Based upon my calculations, this technique will result in a ~40% coolant to 60% water ratio. The ratio is somewhat >40% coolant if I allow some of the residual flush water to be expelled from an elevated discharge point as I fill the coolant. According to the PEAK coolant table, the 40/60% mixture will protect down to minus 12 degrees Fahrenheit. It's good enough for coastal Virginia, but I can't speak for Oregon.
Too late to edit Post #18, but correction shown in red above.
 
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