How bad would it be if the most physically challenged person who drives or is transported by that vehicle is someday stranded because the vehicle will not start or it stops running while being used (assume driving through the worst neighborhood, or in the worst weather, very hot or a miserable winter day). If no very old, very young, or other wise physically challenged person is normally transported by that vehicle, and it never is driven through any very bad neighborhoods, then reliability is not that big a deal, other wise choose wisely.
The batteries at Wal-Mart have a color code dot on them. When they have sat on the shelf for some predetermined number of months someone at Wal-Mart removes them from the shelf. They are then charged and tested and if they pass they go back on the shelf with a new sticker of a new color that indicates to those who know the color code use at Wal-Mart how old that battery really is. Theoretically the brand new battery you buy from Wal-Mart can be anything from fresh from the factory, to something that is actually so old that if you knew the age you would never purchase it. While Wal-Mart and other stores have pro-rating that you would think at least gives an even brake to anyone who gets burned by buying a battery that has been in the store for a long time, pro-rating is not all it is cracked up to be. When they pro-rate they look at the number of months you have had the battery, the life expectancy of the battery, and the retail price of the battery. Then they subtract that from what you paid. Because the retail price can be much more than the sale price, you can end up with paying close to full sale price for the new (replacement) battery even though you only had it for a year or so. And there is nothing to stop you from getting another new battery that is actually an old battery that has been on the shelf too long, a second time. Unless you know what the dot colors stand for and you can chose a factory fresh battery, I would stay away from Wal-Mart batteries.
Duralast Gold from AutoZone in general is a very good battery. But it is possible to get a battery that has been there for awhile. Check the actual battery BEFORE it is installed in you vehicle by looking for scrape marks on the terminals form it being previously installed in someone else's vehicle. If it has those scrape marks then don't get it. If I had to chose between the three listed by OP I would go with the Duralast Gold.
Interstate batteries should be a better battery, and they are most likely more expensive. But you can still get a bad battery that has been on the shelf too long with an Interstate. I went with the largest possible Interstate for my 1985 Olds and ended up with one that was too old before it was ever used, probably because that extra large size is not often used. It failed early, and I had to get another under the pro-rating, and even with the pro-rating it was expensive. At least the second one was fresh from the factory, the truck delivered it the day it was installed, they did not have a second one that size in stock.
Recently I talked to some people at a Batteries-Plus store. They carry Duracell car batteries. They said that if a new Duracell battery sits too long before being sold that it is sent back to the factory at Duracell where the plates are re-plated and then tested and sent back to Batteries-Plus. Probably a better battery compared to others of the same age. They are also high priced.
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Also, for what it is worth, for reliability, I have the alternator rebuilt (replace bearings, brushes, and run tested), and the starter rebuilt (replace bendix, brushes, clean comutator especially down in the slots between conducting sections, clean and re-grease where the shaft goes, and run tested) when one of our vehicles reaches 60K miles, and then every 50K miles after that. I also replace the belt(s) and (tenserer including idler pulley and bearing, if the vehicle has one) when they look shot. It use to be that serpentine belts were only good for (reliable) for 25K miles, but serpentine belts have been improved and are much more reliable now days.
Over the years, I have found that after 60K for the original alternator and starter, they are not very reliable. And a rebuilt (of the original by a good rebuilding shop) is much more reliable.
Also, the so called new, low price new alternators and starters at auto parts stores usually are rebuilt units that have been rebuilt in a foreign country, by unskilled labor, and not properly tested. And in general they are not reliable, and a waste of time and money. A real, "NEW" alternator or starter from the dealer will cost something like 2 to 5 times what low cost ones go for at auto parts stores.
