Need Advice on Suit Shopping

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The Critic

The Critic

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I have never owned or wore a suit before, but now it is time for me to purchase my first suit as I have to give a big presentation next month.

I understand that I need to go get myself "measured" for a suit. Once I get my measurements, I am considering one of these suits and then having it tailored locally:

http://www.overstock.com/Clothing-Shoes/...53/product.html
http://www1.macys.com/catalog/product/index.ognc?ID=305458&CategoryID=40100

I'm 5'11" 205 lbs, so I think slim suits are out of the question for me?

What do you folks recommend? How much should I pay for a decent quality suit? Anything I should watch out for? Particular brands to consider? Think critic budget...
wink.gif


Thanks!
 
Sorry Mike, Don't do suits. Period... After my previous life (and Career) I made a few life changes and staying out of suits was one of them.

Good Luck!

Bill
 
Go for classic style versus trends when it comes to a complete package. Think of what presidents wear, usually the same simple color sets, very simple and straightforward. Avoid places like mens wearhouse that try to get you into fancy, trendy suits that are pricey, but at the same time realize that there is a relatively high cost to a decent suit, and going cheaper can be noticed. Avoid anything but the most simple and unobtrusive pinstripe until you've covered the basics. You're not Steve harvey... Those options are to keep things interesting when you daily wear a suit.

Cut is a tough thing, be on the lookout for athletic cut if you aren't too fat /have a gut.

My favorite suits are Pierre Cardin (fits well, looks good and wears very well), and Ralph Lauren, which fits slightly better without modifications, but does not wear quite as well, IMO.
 
Btw, enough intricacies to wearing a suit that I wouldn't mail order until you truly know the fits and what you like. Key is to know a good tailor, as mods will need to be made.

If you have Syms stores around they can be a great start...
 
You shouldn't mail-order a suit because it just won't fit. Suits don't fit the same way as other clothes.

I have had the best luck going to a Nautica outlet and getting suit separates that match. That way I can get pants that fit (34) with the jacket (46). If I buy a complete suit they always have to alter the pants way smaller and they fit funny. If you have an outlet mall nearby it is an inexpensive way to go (<$300).
 
I wear suits every day to work, so hopefully I have something useful to add.

My favorite color is charcoal. It looks good with everything, and it's formal yet not so much that you feel like you're in a monkey suit. For a tie get a power color that looks good on a pastel blue or white shirt. Those looks are classic that won't go out of style.

As for the cut and fit of the suit, I'm 5' 10" and weigh in at 185 lbs. I'm a bit heavy on my shoulders down through my upper abdomen, but I can get away with a slim/athletic cut suit. I'm assuming you probably could too. It just depends on your waist size.

My measurements are roughly 43" for the chest, 16" for the neck, 32" waist, and 33-34" inseam.

The classic three-button suit might fit you well, but if you have a bit bigger of a belly, a well-fitting two-button might look better. Just make sure the jacket fits you well in the shoulders down through your torso. Don't let the worker at the store just throw something off the rack on you and call it good enough. My worst-fitting suit was one when I let them do that.

When you get your neck size, consider going up another half inch since you could be nervous during your speech. This will allow you to naturally tense up and still be able to breathe with the top button done.

Now for prices. . . . Clearance rack it up! Places like Younkers here discount all of their higher-priced designer suits after they sit on the rack for a time. I got a $550 Tommy Hillfiger suit that fit perfectly for $125 plus tailoring. JCPenny's Stafford line of suits are often heavily discounted on Fridays with doorbuster sales. I've gotten lots of compliments on those.

When it comes to wearing your suit, never button the bottom button. That's a fashion fo-pah.

PM me if you have more questions.
 
The above is all correct. If I was only going to own one suit, I'd probably get a classic/traditional styled charcoal suit. Simply b/c of the versatility, it goes with any occasion where a suit should be worn (weddings, funerals, court dates, etc).

If you have one near you check out Jos A Bank. They have different levels of suits, every time I've gone the people there have been helpful and I haven't been disappointed by any of the suits I've gotten from them; I have other suits I like more, but overall for what I've paid there Jos A Bank suits have been reasonable (though you have to get it at one of their "sales" that's always going on and not the "regular" price). Though I'm far from an expert on suits.

Also, if at all possible when buying a suit, I prefer to work with the "older" employee who's been there for a while over the younger guys. If he's been there a while he knows about suits and can help you more, and the younger employees tend to have more of a used cars sales man sales style.
 
Bringing a mail order suit to a tailor is like bringing your own parts to a mechanic.

You live in the Bay Area? There has to be a good place in Chinatown. Not just a cliche.

+1 on avoiding garish pinstripes. Whatever fashion they have this year will expire.

Also try goodwill, seriously. Their suits are only $6-10, same as a shirt. (Public service to help job searches?) A lanky kid in an untailored suit that still fits reasonably well has a certain charm.
 
Originally Posted By: svhanc
You shouldn't mail-order a suit because it just won't fit. Suits don't fit the same way as other clothes.

I have had the best luck going to a Nautica outlet and getting suit separates that match. That way I can get pants that fit (34) with the jacket (46). If I buy a complete suit they always have to alter the pants way smaller and they fit funny. If you have an outlet mall nearby it is an inexpensive way to go (div>


+1, I've had good luck with Ralph Lauren on sale at macy's for separates. I'm 34 waist and 48L jacket so I'm a tough fit...
 
Originally Posted By: sicko
If you have one near you check out Jos A Bank. They have different levels of suits, every time I've gone the people there have been helpful and I haven't been disappointed by any of the suits I've gotten from them; I have other suits I like more, but overall for what I've paid there Jos A Bank suits have been reasonable (though you have to get it at one of their "sales" that's always going on and not the "regular" price).


I have gotten a few suits from them as well and have no complaints. I also like charcoal colored suits, you can wear them nearly anyplace.
 
I'm with Bill on this one. After all the nice dress pants, shirts, ties, etc. now I wear jeans, basketball shoes, and a short sleeve collared shirt to work. Nobody thinks twice about it and I'm not here to impress anyone. I might shave once a week, but I do shower - I promise!
 
It's all well and good to wear jeans and sneakers, but there is a time and place for needing suits. Critic is just starting out (graduating soon I think), and a suit is critical - so optimum advice is key, not what he may think about wearing x years in the future...

Walk into an interview in jeans and sneakers, unshaven and guess what the result will be...
 
For business meeting, best is to go with Black suit, you will be taken seriously, and you will get more attention than your clothes....

Make sure it's 100% Wool

Always try the suit on, most common mistake people do is buy a wider shoulder suit than needed and that makes one look short and broad and fat, not long and sleek...

once u get your suite get the waist and hemming done by a tailor...

Black suit is universal, it goes with everything, you can go for stripes that too helps look taller and slim, but ones the pant worn's out, you will have a hard time finding a matching pant....
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
It's all well and good to wear jeans and sneakers, but there is a time and place for needing suits. Critic is just starting out (graduating soon I think), and a suit is critical - so optimum advice is key, not what he may think about wearing x years in the future...

Walk into an interview in jeans and sneakers, unshaven and guess what the result will be...


I get what you're saying but... Depends on the job!

I've been hired over the phone before as well. My father works for the Navy and was hired on the spot on the phone.

Many of the computer careers I've done, clothes were not a concern - even if it's an office job.
 
There is nothing tackier than a cheap suit. I have a couple of Brioni suits and sport coats, they cost good money but you can see the difference immediately from a mile away.
You can buy a good quality suit at a discount for a lower price, I mean cheap materials.

One of the big downfalls of inexpensive suits is the inner liner between the liner and the outer material, on a high end suit it hangs free and lets the material move while on the cheap suit they are glued to the outer material, this causes wrinkles over time that do not press out as the glue loosens from cleaning and even normal wear.
Pull the inner liner way from the outer cloth, on a quality suit you will feel another piece of material between them, if you don’t feel this the inner liner is glued to the cloth and is a good indicator you are dealing with a cheap suit..

Never buy a blend material suit; these begin to look shabby after a short time.100% Wool is the way to go regardless of price class, the better the suite the better the quality and grade of the wool. The suit should be tailored to fit your shape.

Don’t forget the suit is only one part of elegant dressing, the shirt, tie, pocket handkerchief, belt, shoes and watch is just as important.

The shirt should be tailored with a high thread count and single needle stitched with French cuffs, black onyx cufflinks work well with darker colored suits. Stay away from monograms and shirts with pockets.

Pocket handkerchiefs should be silk with a hand stitched single rolled edge.

The belt should be genuine material, if you like the look of Alligator then buy alligator not leather with an Alligator print. If leather is the budget then go with quality calf leather with matching buckle color. Use a simple elegant smaller buckle anything too large or industrial looking will catch the eye and ruin the look of the suit.

The tie should be silk of high quality, the color you choose should fit the event.
Be carful with “power colors” when giving presentations, a neutral dark blue works well.

Shoes are a whole story in themselves but basically stay away from fashion styles i.e. box or semi box toes, pointed or clunky postman style shoes. A nice classic shoe always works well. Leather soles are an absolute must! Soles of man made materials are an absolute disaster; they look downright cheap and will lower the appearance of the whole suite.

The watch you wear can make or break the whole look.
Large metal bracelet watches are out of the question for the most part as are most chronographs (there are exceptions i.e a 40mm Brietling Chronomat in two tone is acceptable a large Rolex Daytona is not) unless you really know what your are doing. I wear a 40mm Ebel blue and gold dial chrono with dark blue sharkskin strap, the watch is 18k white with yellow gold trim and works well with a high end suit. A 40-42mm gold case watch in fine condition with quality leather strap is a must, a 2 hand with white dial works well.

Keep rings to a bare minimum, wedding ring okay but nothing distracting

You can buy less expensive suits but choose the accessories and materials carefully, shop for a bargain. You don’t want to look like a car with a perfect paint job with bald tires, poor trim, bare steel wheels and rusty bumpers.

Top coats if worn should be either cashmere or a cashmere wool blend never man made blends.

Don’t forget to manicure you hands presenting they will be a focal point. The cuffs and watch and anything else near your hands will be on display also you don’t want them to be over powering.
 
That is what Mom, GF, girl friends are there for, not oil changers
48.gif
.

Important thing before going shopping: Fix the price limit, and better, put it lower that you want to spend as they will go over anyway. Plan a whole saturday afternoon for that (oil change will have to wait another week).

When trying suits, tell them the ones you don't like, not the ones you like, and go through the elimination process.

If you are on a budget (or don't plan to wear it often if you don't like wearing suits), choose a suit which could be used for other occasions, like at weddings, formal parties, etc...

In order to do that, like others, I will go with a charcoal suit, preferably no synthetic (wool is nice and can be wear whatever temperature it is).
Don't worry if you find it a little bit too formal, no suit looks too formal, that is the way you wear it that makes it formal. No tie, less formal, not buttoned, even less formal, one hand in the pocket, getting quite casual, etc...
 
Originally Posted By: Ibrahim
For business meeting, best is to go with Black suit, you will be taken seriously, and you will get more attention than your clothes....

. . . Black suit is universal, it goes with everything, you can go for stripes that too helps look taller and slim, but ones the pant worn's out, you will have a hard time finding a matching pant....

Yes, a dark suit, charcoal or midnight blue, is classic and goes with everything. But black suits in our society are reserved for only two professions: funeral directors and airline pilots. They come on far too strong for anything else.

A good book to find is James Molloy's Dress for Success (http://www.amazon.com/John-Molloys-New-Dress-Success/dp/0446385522). He gives great advice on the elements that make a suit/shirt/tie/accessories combo work the way you want it to -- based on actual research with actual people, not just his opinion. Also advice on how to find bargains, and actual color pictures of combos you can emulate.
 
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