Need advice on cleaning a flooded car

They will pay more than wholesale, if the estimate comes back low, tell them no and the car is worth more. Go online and save some sale adds from dealerships with the same car, tell them it was pristine and see how it goes. I did that with my truck that my son totaled and they came back with $2500 more than the first offer.
Thanks.
 
You might need to get a salvage certificate in FL to keep the car and have the buy back / salvage value subtracted from your settlement. Depending on the salvage value, would it be worth keeping a vehicle that requires extensive repairs (even with free labor) after the settlement is reduced. I guess you'll find out once you have the vehicle appraised.
No.
 
I hope you update this thread someday to let us know how you made out.
Good luck
I will. Just waiting for pics. One of my friends went over this am and reported that the car was flooded and there was 3.5' of dirty water in the house.
While I'm very bummed out about all this(I so enjoyed winters there with that car), I do realize that I am lucky as I have a house to live in and I'm safe. There are many many people a lot worse off. It's only stuff.
 
I will. Just waiting for pics. One of my friends went over this am and reported that the car was flooded and there was 3.5' of dirty water in the house.
While I'm very bummed out about all this(I so enjoyed winters there with that car), I do realize that I am lucky as I have a house to live in and I'm safe. There are many many people a lot worse off. It's only stuff.
You have the right attitude! Kudos.
 
Every state's salvage title process is different. In my opinion- no individual wants to try and convert a salvage certificate to a rebuilt title in Florida. A salvage certificate in Florida does not allow for the vehicle to be licensed.

Florida has one of the more complex and harder to achieve processes to convert a salvage certificate to a rebuilt title. I rebuilt one salvage certificate vehicle in Florida. Huge amount of paperwork, and a very long wait time just to have the vehicle inspected. About 40 plus pages of documents I had to submit.

Wait time for a Florida repaired salvage vehicle has been so very ling, the state allowed a handful of private firms to perform salvage inspections, I think the handful of firms that can do this in Florida are in the Miami area.

In closing, because of fraud, when the inspector completes and approves the salvage vehicle inspection, the documents go in a sealed envelope with a special security bounding. The envelop must immediately be brought to the DMV. Craziest process ever.
That's probably a good thing as FL has the potential for may salt water flooded cars. If the radio wasn't under water, I might salvage it. lol
 
In 1994 I bought a flood vehicle (salt water), a 1990 Camry LE with the V6. It had a check engine light on when I bought it and the seat belts (automatic) didn't actuate. Took it home, the water had gotten up to the floor shift column where the seat belt PCB sat. I ended up having to purchase an ECU (main engine computer) from a junkyard and a PCB for the seat belt motors. Also removed the power seat motors and cleaned out some rust and oiled, put them back in. Other than that, nothing else.

I put on 155,000 miles on that car and I would rate it one of my best buys ever. Don't listen to people that will tell you you will have electrical problems for the rest of the cars life. It's just not true. However, 3-4 feet is a lot higher than my car had seen. That said, you will probably have to replace some if not all of the electrical modules that were soaked. Time if of the essence.
 
First picture. Note the water level on house next door and steel satellite dish.
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In 1994 I bought a flood vehicle (salt water), a 1990 Camry LE with the V6. It had a check engine light on when I bought it and the seat belts (automatic) didn't actuate. Took it home, the water had gotten up to the floor shift column where the seat belt PCB sat. I ended up having to purchase an ECU (main engine computer) from a junkyard and a PCB for the seat belt motors. Also removed the power seat motors and cleaned out some rust and oiled, put them back in. Other than that, nothing else.

I put on 155,000 miles on that car and I would rate it one of my best buys ever. Don't listen to people that will tell you you will have electrical problems for the rest of the cars life. It's just not true. However, 3-4 feet is a lot higher than my car had seen. That said, you will probably have to replace some if not all of the electrical modules that were soaked. Time if of the essence.
I'd say you got lucky. Cars back then didn't have as many random modules and sensors throughout the vehicle as they do today. Similar flood damage to a modern vehicle would involve the main SRS computer being submerged (usually under the shifter console / dashboard) , SRS seat belt buckle retractors exposed to water, all kinds of electrical sensors (SRS too) and motors under the seat and a variety of other computers and extra connectors modern cars have.

No one should risk SRS components exposed to salt water even if there is no indication of an error such as having the SRS light on. Maybe some system error is preventing the light from turning on and corrosion could slowly be eating away at connections or the circuit boards inside, turning it into a death trap and could randomly deploy the airbag:


These parts aren't usually hermitically / epoxy sealed like some external SRS sensors.

If you've ever seen or worked on a car with water inside (no matter how much) if the windows were closed, especially in hot weather, the interior turns into a terrarium / petri dish. It's not uncommon to have condensation on the interior windows, moisture intrusion to all the surfaces, and mold / some life forms growing inside. Who knows what's going on under the seat or in the cavities of the interior? I wouldn't feel comfortable driving in a mold mobile where the airbags could randomly explode or not work at all.

First picture. Note the water level on house next door and steel satellite dish.View attachment 119408


Looks like the trunk opened up, maybe due to a short triggering the lock or damage from the car port? Either way with that water level and even light body damage, IMO it's not worth repairing and dealing with the Christmas tree of warning lights that will waste your time.
 
No one should risk SRS components exposed to salt water even if there is no indication of an error such as having the SRS light on. Maybe some system error is preventing the light from turning on and corrosion could slowly be eating away at connections or the circuit boards inside,
Not having the SRS light come on when you start the car IS an indication of some error and further investigation is needed. No different from the CEL.
 
In 1994 I bought a flood vehicle (salt water), a 1990 Camry LE with the V6. It had a check engine light on when I bought it and the seat belts (automatic) didn't actuate. Took it home, the water had gotten up to the floor shift column where the seat belt PCB sat. I ended up having to purchase an ECU (main engine computer) from a junkyard and a PCB for the seat belt motors. Also removed the power seat motors and cleaned out some rust and oiled, put them back in. Other than that, nothing else.

I put on 155,000 miles on that car and I would rate it one of my best buys ever. Don't listen to people that will tell you you will have electrical problems for the rest of the cars life. It's just not true. However, 3-4 feet is a lot higher than my car had seen. That said, you will probably have to replace some if not all of the electrical modules that were soaked. Time if of the essence.

A1990 Camry is a far cry from even a 1990 Mercedes much less the topic of discussion and you should have bought a lottery ticket because the gods definitely smiled on you that day…
 
Not having the SRS light come on when you start the car IS an indication of some error and further investigation is needed. No different from the CEL.
Good point. What I mean is an SRS light, common after an error / bad sensor / module that stays lit.
 
A1990 Camry is a far cry from even a 1990 Mercedes much less the topic of discussion and you should have bought a lottery ticket because the gods definitely smiled on you that day…
Yes no airbags. Cars were simpler back then. But it's not a lottery ticket and I didn't "get lucky". I knew what saw and didn't see water. And yes, back then I got the same comments about how the car was going to be problematic, electrically speaking......but it wasn't.
 
I'd say you got lucky. Cars back then didn't have as many random modules and sensors throughout the vehicle as they do today. Similar flood damage to a modern vehicle would involve the main SRS computer being submerged (usually under the shifter console / dashboard) , SRS seat belt buckle retractors exposed to water, all kinds of electrical sensors (SRS too) and motors under the seat and a variety of other computers and extra connectors modern cars have.

No one should risk SRS components exposed to salt water even if there is no indication of an error such as having the SRS light on. Maybe some system error is preventing the light from turning on and corrosion could slowly be eating away at connections or the circuit boards inside, turning it into a death trap and could randomly deploy the airbag:


These parts aren't usually hermitically / epoxy sealed like some external SRS sensors.

If you've ever seen or worked on a car with water inside (no matter how much) if the windows were closed, especially in hot weather, the interior turns into a terrarium / petri dish. It's not uncommon to have condensation on the interior windows, moisture intrusion to all the surfaces, and mold / some life forms growing inside. Who knows what's going on under the seat or in the cavities of the interior? I wouldn't feel comfortable driving in a mold mobile where the airbags could randomly explode or not work at all.




Looks like the trunk opened up, maybe due to a short triggering the lock or damage from the car port? Either way with that water level and even light body damage, IMO it's not worth repairing and dealing with the Christmas tree of warning lights that will waste your time.
Looks like the trunk opened up, maybe due to a short triggering the lock or damage from the

I think you are right. I hadn’t noticed that. Battery is back there with a battery tender on it.
 
To put this thread to bed, I will report that Allstate treated me very well. They used Copart to tow the car away before I got down there. I was glad to not have seen it. Allstate acted quickly with no hassles. They paid me $9500 which was more than I had in it. They showed me how they arrived at that value which was an extensive amount of research. Some of my friends with other companies were not so lucky.
 
I have a Mercedes’ CLK convertible park in the flooded Ft Myers area. I‘m not there right now but the water was up 3-4’. I’ll know more this weekend. No idea how to go about cleaning it up. Will it be ruined?
not to be rude, but if you have "another" house in Ft Myers, with a CLK in the garage, then you have plenty to replace the car with a new one. For you there is no cleaning, the car is trash.
 
not to be rude, but if you have "another" house in Ft Myers, with a CLK in the garage, then you have plenty to replace the car with a new one. For you there is no cleaning, the car is trash.
Umm, that IS being rude. You don't know his lifestyle or financial situation. Plenty of under $100k homes in that area.
 
Umm, that IS being rude. You don't know his lifestyle or financial situation. Plenty of under $100k homes in that area.
OK thanks for your comment. The point was not to be rude, just realistic. If you live in a place that has potential to be destroyed EVERY year by a hurricane, I would think that they would know that the car is trash, and not "cleanable". Seems to me to be a weird question.
 
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