On that car if the price is not a steal it will not be a good deal.
Need advice on buying 1992 BMW 525i
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Running rich you should budget for O2 sensors (you can get them pretty cheaply if you go universal or cross reference the p/n) at the very least; worst case you are talking about catalytic converter(s). If the latter, get universal Magnaflows and weld them in there. Could also be a fuel pressure regulator issue - easy fix.
The more I think about this car, the better race car it seems it would make. But I suppose that's not what you're planning...
The more I think about this car, the better race car it seems it would make. But I suppose that's not what you're planning...
You can run rich or blow a lot of smoke after sitting a while, and have it clear out. Might be one slightly bad injector that bled down or a sticky ring... or just condensation all thru the exhaust.
The slight oil drips in the engine compartment also had lots of time to accumulate before smoking off the outside of the manifolds etc... something you won't necessarily smell every day (but might).
The slight oil drips in the engine compartment also had lots of time to accumulate before smoking off the outside of the manifolds etc... something you won't necessarily smell every day (but might).
Thanks for feedback. RE: rich
I had only had it running for a few mins, and I don't think it got out of the "closed loop" (forget what the term is) it didn't even warm up. Plus, it sat without starting for a month.
It *seems* the engine is solid but I didn't think to check compression on it.
I had only had it running for a few mins, and I don't think it got out of the "closed loop" (forget what the term is) it didn't even warm up. Plus, it sat without starting for a month.
It *seems* the engine is solid but I didn't think to check compression on it.
Just talked to the owner and apparently the sticker is wrong, the oil *has* been changed recently. I was getting concerned here, with the 10K miles on the sticker.
The lowest price I can get is $300... contemplating at the moment if I should go for it.
The lowest price I can get is $300... contemplating at the moment if I should go for it.
If the body is straight & the engine is running, you have a good start on an easy project.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
I own a BMW. Run away from this as fast as you can as you have no idea what you are letting yourself in for.
Beat me to it. Same advice. Own one (M3), not a car to do a frame up, unless you are going to race it.
Aren't these the ones with the engine problems that don't like US gasoline without seizing up?
I own a BMW. Run away from this as fast as you can as you have no idea what you are letting yourself in for.
Beat me to it. Same advice. Own one (M3), not a car to do a frame up, unless you are going to race it.
Aren't these the ones with the engine problems that don't like US gasoline without seizing up?
Originally Posted By: ffracer
Aren't these the ones with the engine problems that don't like US gasoline without seizing up?
No. Only the early V8 cars with Nikasil cylinder liners had problems with high-sulfer U.S. fuel. The M50 motors are solid and virtually unkillable short of extreme neglect or operator idiocy.
Aren't these the ones with the engine problems that don't like US gasoline without seizing up?
No. Only the early V8 cars with Nikasil cylinder liners had problems with high-sulfer U.S. fuel. The M50 motors are solid and virtually unkillable short of extreme neglect or operator idiocy.
Looks like someone had a rockin' good time in the back seat!
Sorry for that. But a lot of times I judge how well kept the interior is, to how well kept it is mechanically. That is, if the interior is trashed, I doubt they took good care of the fluids and general maintenance.
Sorry for that. But a lot of times I judge how well kept the interior is, to how well kept it is mechanically. That is, if the interior is trashed, I doubt they took good care of the fluids and general maintenance.
Originally Posted By: pacem
Just talked to the owner and apparently the sticker is wrong, the oil *has* been changed recently. I was getting concerned here, with the 10K miles on the sticker.
The lowest price I can get is $300... contemplating at the moment if I should go for it.
If you want it, for all practical purposes $0 and $300 are the same. It's like buying a puppy, the purchase price may seem like it matters, but it's not significant compared to the money you will be spending.
If you aren't going to be doing most of the work yourself, don't even think about it.
Just talked to the owner and apparently the sticker is wrong, the oil *has* been changed recently. I was getting concerned here, with the 10K miles on the sticker.
The lowest price I can get is $300... contemplating at the moment if I should go for it.
If you want it, for all practical purposes $0 and $300 are the same. It's like buying a puppy, the purchase price may seem like it matters, but it's not significant compared to the money you will be spending.
If you aren't going to be doing most of the work yourself, don't even think about it.
I decided not to get it since I found out that it needs not only the clutch ($300) but also the flywheel most likely ($800) so right there we have over a grand in transmission parts.
Then the interior, the tune-up, power window motor and it doesn't even begin to address other issues it may have.
So the 2 grand assessment was right on the money.
I have a hard time judging whether something like this is viable or a money pit with no return, ever.
I would rather get a bit fresher model with fewer miles, with better potential for return (e.g. fix it, drive it, sell it)
But this thing would probably remain un-saleable, other than for some token amount.
Then the interior, the tune-up, power window motor and it doesn't even begin to address other issues it may have.
So the 2 grand assessment was right on the money.
I have a hard time judging whether something like this is viable or a money pit with no return, ever.
I would rather get a bit fresher model with fewer miles, with better potential for return (e.g. fix it, drive it, sell it)
But this thing would probably remain un-saleable, other than for some token amount.
Smart move....s
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Smart move....s
X2
Smart move....s
X2
German car parts = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Originally Posted By: pacem
I decided not to get it since I found out that it needs not only the clutch ($300) but also the flywheel most likely ($800) so right there we have over a grand in transmission parts.
Then the interior, the tune-up, power window motor and it doesn't even begin to address other issues it may have.
So the 2 grand assessment was right on the money.
I have a hard time judging whether something like this is viable or a money pit with no return, ever.
I would rather get a bit fresher model with fewer miles, with better potential for return (e.g. fix it, drive it, sell it)
But this thing would probably remain un-saleable, other than for some token amount.
Good move...plenty of fish in the sea...look for an unemployed mortgage or stock broker who is upside down in an assumable leased one that is 2-3 years old. Should be plenty of those out there especially on the West coast where they write 5-6 year leases.
I decided not to get it since I found out that it needs not only the clutch ($300) but also the flywheel most likely ($800) so right there we have over a grand in transmission parts.
Then the interior, the tune-up, power window motor and it doesn't even begin to address other issues it may have.
So the 2 grand assessment was right on the money.
I have a hard time judging whether something like this is viable or a money pit with no return, ever.
I would rather get a bit fresher model with fewer miles, with better potential for return (e.g. fix it, drive it, sell it)
But this thing would probably remain un-saleable, other than for some token amount.
Good move...plenty of fish in the sea...look for an unemployed mortgage or stock broker who is upside down in an assumable leased one that is 2-3 years old. Should be plenty of those out there especially on the West coast where they write 5-6 year leases.
BMWs of that era and newer are money pits. The cooling systems are fragile. The interiors are garbage. I have had great luck with my E 28, 88 528es. The cars are easy to repair and parts are reasonable if you dont source them from the dealer. But later models are no where as reliable or easy to maintain.
While the E28s can be a great example of longevity without undue cost, they can and will experience costly and inconvenient failures. Over nine years and almost 100k miles in my hands (up to 238k total miles by then end), my 1983 533i killed a couple radiators, a plastic heater valve blew up, the diff ate itself, thrust arm bushings failed twice, control arm bushings once, various electrics got wonky, etc.
My 2001 525i, which I've had for a little over a year and is currently at 110k miles, has had the entire cooling system replaced proactively for a total of about $550 in parts (radiator, expansion tank, hoses, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch), the alternator failed due to a blockage in the cooling duct ($240), the thrust arm bushings have been dealt with, as have the transmission mounts (~$30), and the alarm sensor for the hood went bad recently ($15). The interior quality is every bit as good as my E28 was.
While the E39 is certainly more complex, I have not found the parts to be more expensive than for the E28, nor has it been at all difficult to work on. The potential for expensive failures is there, but I really do not think that the characterization of the later 5-series cars as unreliable or difficult to maintain is apt.
My 2001 525i, which I've had for a little over a year and is currently at 110k miles, has had the entire cooling system replaced proactively for a total of about $550 in parts (radiator, expansion tank, hoses, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch), the alternator failed due to a blockage in the cooling duct ($240), the thrust arm bushings have been dealt with, as have the transmission mounts (~$30), and the alarm sensor for the hood went bad recently ($15). The interior quality is every bit as good as my E28 was.
While the E39 is certainly more complex, I have not found the parts to be more expensive than for the E28, nor has it been at all difficult to work on. The potential for expensive failures is there, but I really do not think that the characterization of the later 5-series cars as unreliable or difficult to maintain is apt.
Wow, I'd have jumped all over that for a couple hundred bucks. I bought my daughter an '89 735i w/170k for $1500, and although I've put about a grand into it, it's not any more expensive (for most items) to fix than the wife's Ford, or my old BII (330k mi, btw).
But you never know what may be around the corner, and you could always [censored] out.
Probably better off I missed it.
-zz
But you never know what may be around the corner, and you could always [censored] out.
Probably better off I missed it.
-zz
Get a good used fly wheel.I have installed used clutches before. When it was obvious the parts only had a few miles on them. Used tires as well for that matter. The project for me would be to see how cheap I could buy good replacement parts. I have pulled transmissions out of cars that were wrecked but had only a few thousand miles after a rebuild.
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